KiwiRS4T

Here is the answer from GCG (for my RB25DET - may be different for M35): 1) We use the factory bearing housing and modify it, we do not use a Garrett "cartridge" as such to replace the internals. 2) Exhaust wheel = Stage 3 T3 3) Compressor wheel = T04E 4) A/R is same as the factory housings that come on the vehicle from Nissan, we do not modify, or touch any of the external housings on this unit. As we are the only people who can build these units in ball bearing, we don't like to give away too much detail, i'm sure you can understand. Regards, Michael Ramsay Internal Sales

I am interested in the V2 because i don't have a laptop and don't want to buy one just to use the consult. Presumably firmware updates can be done via my desk top PC.

Almost $2000 for a GCG highflow compared to a new one? A GCG highflow is effectively a new turbo except that there are no extra installation costs, mounts or lines to be made up. I am very happy with the GCG highflow in my S1 and it boosts early and quickly. It is rated by GCG at 450hp. I am not there yet, currently around 360hp (200AWKW) - still to install 550 injectors and a Z32 afm and then up the boost to 16psi. Despite GCG's comments about sliding performance's bush bearing turbo there is a reputable local (NZ) workshop that does bush bearing highflows for about $1200 which make good power althougth I believe they start boosting a little higher in the rev range and may not last as long unless very carefully looked after (warmed down slowly as well as having a turbo timer).

I take it the ECUtalk V2 display is meant to be a permanently connected in car feature - does it display all of the information that would be displayed on a laptop or do you still need a laptop to gain all of the features available via the consult cable?

How long did they drive your auto with the manual ecu? Not long I would guess. See if you can get Darrin Spencer to take your car for a drive and ask him for a workshop recommendation.

Sounds a little risky to me. What are you going to do if it is too lean? I would be inclined to get a SAFC first so that you can adjust the afrs across the rev range.

Try pulling the plug out of the ecu and looking at the contacts and if they look OK put the plug back firmly and do up the bolt. While you are there write down the numbers on the ecu and post them up for us to see. Maybe a Brisbane member with an S2 will trial swap the ecu or at least point you to an RB savvy workshop. It is unusual for the ecu to pack up but if that is the problem the only other member to need a S2 ecu couldn't find one so ended up paying $2500 for a Vipec which you probably don't want to do right now. So check out everything else but post up the part number for the ecu so that we can keep an eye out for one in the meantime.

You're not kidding. Way back in the mists of time I used to be a mechanic but since getting a Stagea I have learned so much about RB motors and other Stagea specific information that has saved me hours of time and, yes, literally thousands of potentially wasted dollars from reading the hundreds of pages of information in this forum. How did we ever get on before the internet? (I guess there are a lot of members who can't remember a time when there was no internet!).

Here is the reply from GCG about my highflow: "1) We use the factory bearing housing and modify it, we do not use a Garrett "cartridge" as such to replace the internals. 2) Exhaust wheel = Stage 3 T3 3) Compressor wheel = T04E 4) A/R is same as the factory housings that come on the vehicle from Nissan, we do not modify, or touch any of the external housings on this unit. As we are the only people who can build these units in ball bearing, we don't like to give away too much detail, i'm sure you can understand. Regards, Michael Ramsay Internal Sales " All I can add is that they were rated at 450hp. I am up to about 360hp and I am getting 550 injectors and a Z32 AFM and then I will turn up the boost and get a tune and see what it does then. The GCG highflow boosts hard from the mid 2000 and can reach 16psi (my intended maximum) by 3000rpm. I think that for the price (under $2000) they are ideal for auto Stageas for people who don't want to rebuild the engine with forged rods, pistons etc and because they slot back in wihout need for new manifolds, wastegates, water or oil lines and for their stock appearance.

Yes you are right but although the plug is the same as the R34 the pinouts vary in a few cases and the ecu internally is not exactly the same as either the R33 or R34 Skyline.

You may be right - i didn't check - but I suspect all the other problems remain.

I would do another tank full and do the calculation on the back of an envelope. I have got my S1 down to 20L per 100km by giving it heaps on short trips but M35s are supposed to be more economical. Your figure is too bad to be just the o2 sensor. I would do another trial before spending any money on it.

By all means see the specialist but I fear it may not be that easy. The gearbox is the same but the auto ecu may be different. With the S1 the auto ecu is inside the main ecu which is why I am having trouble getting a chipped ecu. Since the S1 ecu can't (easily) be chipped X-tune has chipped an R32 ecu but that doesn't run the auto. So he is basically piggy backing both ecus together. With the S2 this is not necessary which makes me think that the S2 auto ecu may be elsewhere. In that case you may need an S2 loom, ecu, and auto ecu but the neo injectors and cam control are different. Nothing that can't be overcome! On the bright side if you do all that you should be able to run a Vipec or Nistune! Hopefully I am wrong and it will be very simple.

As I understand it any changes you make to a stock ecu with through the consult do not stick - .i.e. once you unplug it and drive off everything returns to default mode. To make changes to settings you will need a nistune chip or for the S1 an expensive daughterboard that can be chipped.

If you are interested email or phone GCG. They used to list the highflows c/w specifications and prices. I gave them an RB25 turbo and they gave it back to me after about 3 day turnaround as a ball bearing steel wheeled highflow with all new parts for around $1850 and it went straight in with no fabrication needed. I had supplied it with a RB20 actuator (10psi against the stock 7psi) and have a jaycar boost controller. It boosts very quickly and holds 16psi no trouble. I am not an expert on turbos and all the numbers quoted by those with more experience mean little to me. I am very happy with my turbo but I am aware from others who have bought the 3076 (R?) that they produce even more power.

Sorry, couldn't edit my first post. I have scanned the article on page 5 or 6 of the other post. Best to buy the mag to read it but my basic scanner will give you some idea.

Hopefully some images from my rather basic scanner:

You're quite right. It is called a 260Rs in the article. I guess people just get used to saying RB20 RB25 RB30 and then RS260. My ultimate Stagea would be a 260RS RB32 (RIPS are working on their 3.2L RB30 development).

Well I went for low mount for cheapness, stock look. GCG highflow with SAU discount is about $1800. No extra expenses for new lines or mounts and labour minimal because it bolts right back where it comes from. Also I do not plan to rebuild my motor with forged internals etc any time soon and so will not be going for huge power - my aim was 200AWKW but its now 230-240AWKW and thats it. If you want more than that the 3076 with a 6boost manifold sounds good if you can afford it.

Don't know if you can get "NZ Performance Car" in Aus but the latest issue has "Methamphetamachine's" Rs260 on the cover and an extensive article inside with excellent photos. This link just shows the cover (we are looking at the red car at the bottom of the page not the young lady on the left): http://www.performancecar.co.nz/current-issue Simon has posted a few times with details of his build but it is a truly wonderful piece of detailed work. It still looks pretty stock on the outside even though it has steel flares to accommodate the 10in wide wheels - a rather nice set of Rays. I have yet to see it on the track but those who have say it is just as fast as you would expect. I think the 11 second 1/4 mile is just a reflection of the owner's lack of interest in dragging - i believe it was done in full road going trim with street tyres - and it would easily make the 10sec bracket if not better. As a side note I see that it is controlled by a HKS F Con rather than a PFC or LINK. We are lucky to have at least three or four really top tuners in Auckland including Soichi Tate, formerly of Nissan in Japan, who is among other things an expert on HKS F Con.

Nistune will be better than just getting the Jaycar DFA but you will still need a boost controller and the Jaycar is great value if you can build it or find one already built).

If you can't afford highquality "coilovers" don't get cheap ones. Get Bilsteins - they work great on my S1 for road and track and i don't seem to need to adjust them every other day. i would guess only serious circuit racers need fully adjustable suspension.

Lot of top drag cars and drifters use Motul. I am now using Castrol 10W- 60 (synthetic).

Good result for a stock turbo. You have all the gear for 230AWKW+ (over 300hp). All you need is the GCG highflow! Its rated at 450hp which equates to about 260AWKW which should be within your reach.

If you have rotors which are in good cond you can get them slotted. They are usually machined in a straight line but if you think about it for a second or two you can see that they will work as well as the visually more exciting curved slots.