KiwiRS4T

I'll try for a price for the whole kit and one for boot only.

If you are keen to do the job click on the link below and ask for a price for the boot kits only. You don't have to bid or buy at this point but be sure to specify inner or outer and give the details asked (such as model, year, 2 or 4wd auto or man etc). His prices for the complete cvs are good and he has a range of boot kits (ask for the cost of posting to Aus): http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-220086277.htm

I have a GCG turbo with jaycar electronic boost controller. You can make anywhere from 200AWKW upwards (they are rated at 450hp). The GCG is not cheap (although you can get a discount as an SAU member) but they are ball bearing, slot straight back in with no lines to make up and boost hard from low revs. If money is tight you can run with stock ecu (keep boost down to 10-12 psi). I was using SAFC, SITC, speed limit cut defender but since you have a S2 you can replace all that for less money with a Nistune rechip and tune. Then you can raise boost to 16psi and really fly (you should get an electronic boost controller at this point).

That's pretty good power - far from stock for a 260RS - wish i had your problem!

There was a guy advertising undercar bracing for the WGNC34 but the ad is not on now. I'll bring it to your attention when it shows up again. Have you dynoed your car? Maybe you have an extra-ordinary amount of torque!

It doesn't matter if they're Skylines but the original poster has a Stagea - its the ecu that's the problem not the engine.

Here's a Greddy rear strut brace. Get an even heavier rear anti-roll bar. Subframe lock kit will tighten things up when powering through a corner.

Apparently there are six pins involved but tuner is the electronics expert not me. Strangely with the same auto (but different ecu and loom ) Stagea S2 can do without the stock ecu ( and therefore run Vipec/Link) although ironically the S2 stock ecu can be Nistuned while the S1 cannot.

but are they skylines or stageas? I am having this issue right now...Stagea with ov300 needs that ecu to make auto work at all - tuner is piggybacking R32 ecu to fit tunable chip but has to leave ov300 as well or I'm stuck in 3rd gear. Not an issue with R33 skylines or R34 S2 stageas.

Brendan have you had the tune? What's the latest on the AWKW front? Please tell me its over 230 as i am hoping to acheive that without the port and polish and poncams!

S1 requires ecu to run auto at all (even though there is another computer for the auto) let alone pull timing during changes etc. Pretty sure PFC won't work - haven't heard of anyone doing it on an S1 auto - hence the e-manage. Stock injectors OK for around 200AWKW - fpr may push that up a little - if your aim is big horsepower (240AWKW say) then forget the fpr and get the bigger injectors when needed. PS 200AWKW makes for a pretty rapid wagon.

I find the search function on SAU difficult but got this: "the z32 will not run on the stock ecu so dont bother but when it comes time to wire it up you join the ground wires ie on the Z32 there are two ground wires one is for signal ground and the other is just ground on the R33 S2 loom you have one ground wire, so you just join them all together but dont try it with the stock ecu - it no worky and will run like a whore" I don't remember if you have an aftermarket ecu yet but maybe an SAFC will suffice. I will be getting a Z32 afm soon and hopefully my chipped ecu will run it OK. Did you get a brand new one (and if you don't mind) from where and how much?

Fuel pump Bosch or Walbro. Either fpr or bigger injectors (why topfeed - you can get 550 side feed nothing wrong with stock rail). Greddy E-manage best bet for S1 auto. I haven't got anything on your list except for an adjustable exhaust cam gear - spent my money on a GCG highflow instead. Next 550 (sidefeed) injectors and Z32afm.

there is a kit you can get to make inlet adjustable. I believe it has been tried and is not worth it.

There's a few guys towing their race cars plus some gear (1500 to 2000kg) for long distances on a regular basis so 600 -700kg should be a breeze.

I think the best long term solution is the Vipec/Link ecu at around $2500 installed ( has been done recently on an S2) but the most cost effective and with very similar results is the Nistune rechip at less than $1000 installed - both require a good tune usually on a dyno.

The point of the electronic boost controller is not necessarily to get more boost but to build boost more quickly and to maintain boost at the top end.

My insurance was about $800 p.a. Wrote the car off and the asessor told them it was modified (saw the Bilsteins, sway bars and mistook my LM2 for a Link computer). I argued the toss (drove off the main highway by myself after 2 days without sleep - my fault but that's what insurance is for) and eventually got paid out. I am currently running around in my new car uninsured. I am going to get a low volume compliance certificate when i have finished my mods and then declare them all when I apply for a new insurance.

Have you got an electronic boost controller? Is the mechanical end of your throttle properly adjusted? Try launching with 5000rev/min (left foot on the brake until takeoff).

I was running a Trust smic (a little bigger than the R34) with a GCG turbo at around 200AWKW. Worked well including track days. people are running R34 smic with 200-210AWKW no problem. The ARC unit would be better but in my opinion you are fine with the R34 unit (if you didin't have the ducting make one up).

People are running in excess of 200AWKW with an R34 smic - that's not the problem. You need some way of tuning the motor and just playing with the cas doesn't count. If you can't afford a Vipec get an SAFC and an SITC and get them tuned on a dyno. Contact Anthony (Guilt Toy) for a tune and the lowdown on your options (may be others in your area but I wouldn't know).

De-badging adds to the mystery and makes it harder for people to dob you in to the cops...I take it that's not your car pictured - I like the tail pipe treatment - looks like some serious negative camber for the rear wheels!

Tosh? Tosh? Possibly my fault for making two points in one post. Califunky's tyres are not wide enough - 235s on 9in rims may be acceptable according to the charts but looking at the photos with this particular tyre/rim application they are not square enough for my liking but certainly not bad enough to ditch - I too would want my money's worth out of the rubber..but I have seen other people (not Califunky) with ridiculously stretched tyres - possibly to fit under guards or because they bought the wide rims but find they can't afford the stratospheric prices for the rubber to go with them. i guess it makes sense for the drifters because they are after controlled power slides so want to lose traction and grip ( opposite to the norm). p.s reference to baseball bat was a joke - I wouldn't use one on my car either but with Yokotas i am not quite sure whether or not that was in jest!

Well I started at the top! Have done the roof but the rest of the exterior needs painting, my floors need sanding and polishing etc - its just time and money and my story is i just have to "finish" the car first!I haven't got past the 200AWKW stage yet so i haven't found the limits of the smic. If I have to change it i will but if i can get 220 -230AWKW with the smic its staying! (But that's just me - I'm not suggesting other people should not get a front mount or that they'll get no benefit from one ( although that would be true if that was the only mod!!)

Good work! Have you got a AWD auto or 2wd manual? I take it you have a S2 (since you have a nistune chip). That figure would be very roughly equivalent to 200AWKW - a solid result but I would have hoped for more with your set up. Were your injectors approaching 100% duty cycle? I have a GCG turbo (S1 so some stuffing around adding another ecu to enable it to be chipped) and expect around 200AWKW but I want to get the most out of the GCG turbo so am going to get 550 cc injectors to try to reach my goal of 220 - 230 AWKW - although anything on the right side of 200AWKW will make it pretty fast as you have no doubt found. Will be interested in your 1/4 mile time.