KiwiRS4T

Well the owner of my local RB workshop uses a top line Motul (which makes Mobil1 look cheap) in his 10sec R32 and suggested my change from Castrol Edge 5W30 to 10W 60. I do a few track days and give it heaps on the road so it usually gets up to full operating temps. I think any quality synthetic would be fine ... I would spend more time on tyre choices.

Well I can't say which is the best because i haven't tried them all but the Jaycar EIBC works perfectly for me and is cheap for an electronic boost controller. It has precise control and you can build boost as fast as you want and hold boost at your chosen setting for as long as your turbo can make it. It has two settings but I only need one setting so i have put the same map on both settings in case someone switches over to the other one. The only drawback is that it comes in a kit form but you may be able to buy one already assembled. There is a comprehensive thread in the DUY section.

I have a spare aircond control box if you need one (1997 Series 1 RS4T).

Dave I am very interested in the jaycar speedo correcter. They are supposed to have a large range of correction and I think it could be the basis for our 320km/hr speedo - i.e the jaycar unit plus a new scale printed on sticky paper to stick on the stock speedo face??!! (Of course you could do 300 or 280 etc but there would be economy of scale in printing just one and 320 should suit everybody).

Hugh I have 17in 235/45 (seems a popular size) and the diameter is slightly bigger than stock but that just seems to make the speedo more, not less accurate - most cars you will notice have speedos that are slightly or sometimes very "optomistic" and the stock Stagea is no exception.

If you are poor or even if you aren't there are a lot of things you can do before splashing out on new coil packs. There are probably thousands of posts on this subject (have a search in the skyline section) but here is something you can do: pull out the coil packs and give them a good clean. have a look for obvious signs of arcing. Use one of the suggestions for insulating them. Sometimes the problem is that they have trouble getting enough oomph to jump a 1.1mm gap that has grown bigger. take out your plugs and if they look new give them a clean (carefully if they are not copper) and gap them to 0.8mm. If they look at all dodgy get a set of Copper plugs NGK BCPR6ES and gap them to 0.8mm. (BCPR6ES-8 are already gapped or BCPR6ES -11 are gapped to 1.1 so gap them down). This may fix your problem. If it doesn't it will have been a worthwhile exercise anyway.

1. if you want 17s with the same overall diameter 235/45 will do it - best on 8in but 7.5 will do. 2. If you have the same overall diameter your speedo reading will not change. 3. Take a wheel off and look inside for the actual size and offset (e.g. 8J or 7 1/2 JJ offset 30) 4. Because the front track is narrower than the rear you need a smaller offset number on the front or alternatively use a 25mm spacer on the front.

I'm getting a Z32 AFM installed in a couple of weeks so if you'r not sorted by then PM me for a known good S1 Stagea AFM.

If your rev counter reads 7000 rpm @ 120 in 2nd then its OK. If it reads 8,500 rpm @ 120 in second then its not ok. I don't really think its going to be your rev counter but worth checking. Still think there could be some aftermarket thingy somewhere or a speed sensor wire cut or adrift.

Just as a matter of interest is your speed limiter disabled as well (i.e. have you managed to exceed 180 KM/hr ...not on a public road of course)? Just to check your rev counter is working OK my car is doing about 120k @ 7000 rpm in 2nd. I don't think the Bee*R rev limiter is a good solution - I think you'll have to find out the problem with your stock rev limiter and fix it (most likely suspect some after market gadget or a cut speed sensor wire).

Fault codes are on this site somewhere - a search should find them after a bit! Coils usually only break down under load so i would clean the AAC valve (tutorial in the skyline DIY) and/or check your plugs first (replace with coppers gapped to .8mm).

I have Tein springs: Springs are Tein lowering springs: front: Tein F-SIN78-010311-HCC rear: Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC The car is 350mm front and 360mm rear - looks slightly lower at the front. However the height is controlled by the Bilstein shocks so i cant say how your car would look with standard shocks.

A member has translated the pinout from the Stagea manual (sorry forgot who so can't credit him) so if you give me an email address I can send it to you as an attachment. The R34 pinout in the DIY sticky above is almost the same so will do for most purposes.

1. Change all of your brake fluid and put in some Motul Dot 5 (water in the system doesn't show up until too late!). 2. Get a brake cylinder stopper. 3. Braided stainless steel brake lines all round ( if you haven't already). 4. Decent brake pads.

You better believe the limitations of the stock Turbo unless you're ready to upgrade. Apart from the cost of the new turbo there is a lot of labour involved in getting your turbos in and out. For those new to this make the GCG highflows replace all the ceramic/plastic bits with steel parts. Also check the scale on your boost guage - i don't know what is standard but some are measuring bar, some p.s.i., some hg some various metric measures.

Well I do neither. I am using a petrol from Gull called Force 10 and it is a 98 petrol with 10% ethanol added. It enables me to run more advance and more boost. I have always used it on my car so I cant provide before and after figures. If I were in Aus I would use E85. There is a comprehensive thread on that in the Skyline section by Guilt Toy.I guess if you lived in an area where you could get only low octane petrol Nulon would be a solution.

The only research on octane boosters that i have seen shows that they do stuff all. If you really want to change the octane rating of pump fuel you will have to add 10% or more of something like toluene or ethanol.

My heights are 350mm front and 360mm rear. I don't think the shocks are on the lowest setting but you can machine more grooves if necesary. The shocks are WGNC34 specific Bilsteins but relabelled as Nismo:front: Nismo 56110-RSC45 ENP rear: Nismo 53210- RSC45 ENP Springs are Tein lowering springs: front: Tein F-SIN78-010311-HCC rear: Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC As far as appearances go some cars seem lower to the ground because of the body kits. I have 17x8in wheels and the extra width looks better. If you are getting more power you could probably run bigger wheels (as in bigger rolling circumference) which would raise your gearing (no good for drags but probably good for everything else). ...Bob

On my S1 with Bilsteins and Tein springs it is lowered about 35mm. If the lowest setting on the Bilsteins is not low enough for you you can cut more grooves until the suspension becomes useless if thats what you want.

You're making over 400bhp already - what else do you have planned for it?

Sorry! When I saw the "S" I thought 2wd for some reason - don't see that many 2wd or manuals for that matter! Yep so up to 180AWKW then. No, boost controller is not a priority, but it will help. Nistune should be your next mod ( after esentials such as sounds) in order to get the most out of your current set-up.

Not a bad result. You won't be able to tune it without some means to do so. Since you have an S2 the best bang for buck would be the Nistune. You could then also run some more boost (say 12 psi) either by by-passing the solenoid and adjusting the air bleed or (better) getting an electronic boost controller such as the Jaycar IEBC. That should get you up around 180 - 190 RWKW

Yep put it in 2nd gear and put the snow button on (locks out first gear). You need an Apexi SITC so that you can adjust the timing.

AWD is a big bonus. Empty turbo powered wagon in the wet - easy to lose rear end on a corner or roundabout - awd no problem.

Since its such a mission to get the turbo in and out then its probably a good time to put at least the front pipe on the exhaust and knock the guts out of the cat!