KiwiRS4T

That Defi unit looks impressive - would slot right into my car but for the $900 I don't have!

R33 fits S1 Stagea. Goes pretty close to floor but I have had no problems. No idea about R32.

Neo comes with big plastic cover like this:

If its going to cost an extra $700 to make it work (and I have no idea about this) you would be better off to get a Vipec.

I am installing mine in the rh side of the centre vent. I have taken out the movable vanes. I guess I am lucky to have a spare vent if I want to return it to stock. Its an electrical type with the sender mounted on the engine bay. I would have liked to have it on top of the dash but it would look rough from the other side (i.e. looking in through the windscreen). Plus I want my car looking as stock as. My last one was mounted below the radio but its too far out of the line of sight...especially when you're trying to adjust your boost controller and coming up to a bend at ###km/hr!

If your rim doesn't come up as good as new ask for it to be replaced.Nismo shocks won't necessarily make your car taller. My S1 is lowered 40mm on Nismo shocks ( which are actually rebadged Bilsteins). If yours are the same (i.e. rebadged Bilsteins although I note yours are red v my yellow ones) you may be able to lower your car by repositioning the circlip or by putting in different springs.

Tired after work - meant to say sticker should be on inside of drivers door on pillar.

Standard fitment should be on sticker inside wall. I am using Re001 235/45/17 - used to have 215/55/16 on my last set of rims - look for a set of V35 17in rims if you don't have the cash for Rays just now - they will look good and stock at the same time.

I always think standard batteries are too small. I generally get the biggest one I can fit in, even if it means changing the tray, terminals and the fitting for holding it down ( get universal ones from any auto parts place).

Can't quite see which switch you mean but if its the one to the right of the steering column my car has switch for the de-icing strip along the bottom of the windscreen for unsticking frozen wipers.

I built an additional cold air supply for $5. For $3000 you could get a Vipec to replace your ecu rather than just a piggy back system.

Your tyres are not wide enough. I guess you are going to get wider ones when you "adjust" your wheel arches (quote from Yokotas13 "baseball bat is your friend") but some people seem happy to run with "stretched" tyres which will not handle as well as properly fitted tyres. It appals me but for some it seems a kind of fashion statement!

There are many references to this problem which is as you say common. For that reason you are unlikely to find a front door in pristine condition and may as well set about repairing yours!

Second switch should be for foglights. Head lamp has a setting for daylight switch on top of dash to control headlights so they come on by themselves when it gets dark. It should be written on the stalk: first position off, second automatic, third sidelights, fourth headlights.

I made one by using a tub (like an icecream tub but actually had nails in it) about 140mm square behind the LH headlight cut a hole in the base near the top and fitted a one litre castrol oil container (so that it was also black) with the top and bottom cut off going into a hole cut in the front of the top of the standard airbox. Sealed all joints except the one going into the airbox to make it easier pull apart and remove when necesary. Gave me an extra 20KW and cut a second off my 1/4 mile time. (Just kidding). No way of measuring the improvement really but plenty of air gets by the headlight at speed. Unfortunately the LH corner took the brunt when I wrote off my S1 so now I will have to start again. This time I also have an air diverter and scoop (from the group buy) to fit so that should help.

I'm not really into 4wd but I would have thought that the Pathfinder would have a more substantial front drive than the tiny stagea front driveshaft. Maybe the X-trail would be more likely to have something suitable? If you are keen start off by having a look under a few Nissan 4wds.

[a ttachment=219470:Stagea_wreck.jpg]Here are some photos of my recently departed S1. I will post up my new one when I have installed the chipped ecu and have a dyno chart to go with it. First is at Taupo with the v35 wheels and road tyres. Second is at Manfield with R32GTR rims and Bridgestone semi-slicks. Third is after i have salvaged all the bits to put in my new car.

Well if its the same as my S1 key then once you take the screw out the case is held together with clips so i used a stanley knife to make a small opening and then put a small screwdiver in the gap and turned it and it came apart (my beatery was a Panasonic CR1620 3v). If your central locking doesn't work off the key (and the key opens the door OK) try the lock buttons on the door and see if they work. It is possible to disable the remote locking ( I saw the instructions somewhere) but I don't know how to re-enable it if that is what has been done.

I have had a similar problem with speedo and rev counter freezing. The first time i took the battery lead off and put it back on to fix it but the second time i just turned the igntion off and on again. It hasn't happened for some time now. I think I saw a previous post saying that it could be caused during installation of an aftermarket stereo.

You shouldn't need to lift the bonnet - all connections are normally made at the ecu.

Yep use a large flat bladed screwdriver and turn it. I have a both the louvres if you have damaged yours.

EBC is very worthwhile. What other mods do you have?

Bypass the solenoid and see what happens (possibly faulty but good idea to bypass it anyway). Do a search to find the pics Instructions courtesy of SK: This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose that goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

I don't know the Australian market but in NZ people will not pay extra for mods and you are better to return it to stock and sell the good bits seperately.

If you have a good Vipec/Link installer in your area get one and that will take care of everything including boost control. For a stand alone boost controller you can't beat the Jaycar IEBC for effectiveness and price.