KiwiRS4T

Rust under the door mirrors is the most common fault. I have had two Stageas and got both of them professionally welded/painted. I would be looking for one that already has the Bilsteins, sway bars, fmic if you want that already done, and a manual if that is your goal. If it's not blowing smoke and doesn't rattle these things are good for at least 300,000km. p.s.I am glad you said fuel consumption and not fuel economy - these will go like a 6L V8 and use petrol accordingly. p.p.s I have just bought my third Stagea (the first was n/a, the 2nd written off - my fault, not the car).

What country are you in? You should be able to buy direct from Link in New Zealand - if not they will direct you to a dealer who will sell to you. I thiink they are around NZ$1500 to $2000 depending on specification.

Click on this link and scroll down to post#2 for pictures:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ed#entry1362466

Your radiator place should be able to supply a bigger capacity radiator which has connections for the auto fluid. The point of going through the radiator is to bring it up to operating temp quicker - most trips are short ones.

Sounds exciting. I have been told that the Link (same as the Vipec) can handle autos (i.e. retarding timing etc during gear changes). I haven't taken it further because I can't afford one just now and I have found someone to make my ecu tunable but I believe you may need the top of the line model to handle the auto (but maybe not). I look forward to your results. If it goes well your car should fly with the stock turbo (more airflow for the same amount of boost) but you will also be set for a turbo upgrade in the future. keep us posted!

Toshi or Dr Drift (both on this forum) can chip your ecu but cheaper solution is to get a basic Mk 1 SAFC (Apexi super airflow converter). You can pay more for a blue screen and a joystcik but the old models will do the job.

Try someone else. I don't know about the uni-chip but the Vipec is the same as the Link and the latest version of that can allegedly handle the automatic box. When you say "no Joy"what do you mean? They don't know how to fit it? Can't get it to work at all or properly? In your case the Vipec should be the best bet. Here in Auckland NZ (and there are a couple of others in Australia) there is a guy who installs a daughterboard in the stock ecu and then a tunable chip. I don't know if any of these guys are prepared to share their software at this point so probably not much good to you. The Vipec/Link should be able to do what you want with more grunt than a Power FC and the added functions such as being able to retard timing etc during gear changes. But you probably need the top of the line model not the basic one.

The R34 pinout in the DIY section in the stickies above works for S1 Stagea ecu (if you have the most common ecu: OV300 - there are two others with slight differences.

My last S1 had no sun roof. The one I have just bought has two. I see them as just more weight, something else to go wrong and potential for leaks. You don't want a sunroof when its cold and wet and when its hot they reduce the effectiveness of your air-cond!

My turbo's on the left hand side of the engine and when I pulled the loom out of my wreck I had to remove the abs and aircond so I would be into drilling a new hole (with a new grommet of course).

What does it look like? I guess it is unlikely to fit in the space of the nissan smic with the hoses in the same place?

In NZ spacers can be legal if they are machined to support the wheel like the hub does (i.e. nut just hanging off the studs).Regarding different wheel sizes people sometimes have different profiles to acheive the same rolling radius e.g. 9in with 265/35/18 on the back (=static radius 301mm) and 8in with 235/40/18 on the front (= 301) but a good tyre spec sheet will also show the loaded and dynamic radius which shows that they behave differently under load while driving. This may still be OK for the Atessa but I myself will use only the same width tyres front and rear - and after all wider rear tyres only really make sense for rear drive only cars. ps I find this new way of listings posts a pain in the arts.

For a number of reasons i don't want a front mount in my Stagea. I can get an R34 Gtt smic but I know there are bigger ones out there e.g. Trust, ARC and a number of others. Does anyone have one for sale? I am willing to pay postage to NZ.

If you are happy with your Power FC and have time on your hands build yourself a Jaycar IEBC - I had some difficulty building mine (not very electronic) but once installed it is great to use.

Torque performance are Link dealers. I am sure Soichi will be able to tune them.

I know they do (as it says in my original post). I just don't want to pay the new price so I am looking for someone who has ditched theirs for a front mount.

For a number of reasons i don't want a front mount in my Stagea. I can get an R34 Gtt smic but I know there are bigger ones out there e.g. Trust, ARC and a number of others. Does anyone have one for sale? I am willing to pay postage to NZ.

Final drive ratio makes no difference whatever to your power output. Are you happy with your present gearing or do you want lower for more acceleration or higher for quieter cruise and economy and maybe top speed? Those are the only reasons to change your diff (unless you want a LSD).

I want a side mounted intercooler for my S1 Stagea. I can get a GTT one but I want a larger one. I had a Trust smic but destroyed it in a smash. There is also an ARC one and a few other people make them. Urgently needed for my next Stagea coming next month. Willing to pay freight to NZ.

Greddy speed limiter cut controller SOLDSITC currently FOR SALE

I would guess Nissan, sidemount - still interested?

You deserve a prize for one of the most comprehensive and to the point answers I have seen in ages - makes a change from "yes I've got one and they're the greatest" or "don't get one they're s**t" or "use the search button".

I guess you know that Heat Treatments have been using Motec but RIPS are now using Link (NZ equivalent of Vipec) in their big hp RB30s.For the original poster i would think the Motec is ruled out on price anyway and that would leave the PFC (lots of tuners are familiar with it but it is yesterday's technology) or the Vipec -plenty of capacity at a reasonable price.

My opinion - it would be cheaper and quicker to get 200kw out of your present motor and then save up for a R32GTR or R34GTT!

If the rear passenger door is the same and it costs much more than $75 I'll pull the regulator out of the door (I'm only asking $75 for the door).