KiwiRS4T

Clearly you are not running 10psi "all the time". If your guage is reading 3 (x100)mm hg then that is equivalent to about 6psi. I guess people who say that their car runs 10psi "all the time" really mean that 10 psi is the maximum with or without the solenoid. Obviously at some point they are running nil or negative boost and between that and 10psi there must be a boost building time. I find it difficult to believe that the solenoid, if it is in working order, does not inhibit that build up. If the solenoid is correctly bypassed then I am sure you will find that you will gain quicker acceleration. You may or may not need to alter the size of the restrictor (which should have been moved to the line running to the bov return pipe and I have replaced that with a needle valve so that I can alter the size of the restriction at will), thus increasing boost to 10psi (or about 5 on your guage) or if you have an SAFC you could go to say 6 on your guage (which would be just under 12psi).On my Series I after I got the thre inch exhaust I got 10psi before I bypassed the solenoid but afterwards I got quite a bit more zip (although I regulated the maximum to 10 psi) You shouldn't ask people to "estimate" their 1/4 mile times! Ask to see the slips!

You might be lucky. A few people have been after them of late so there may be few available second hand. I got mine from Nissan who call them sun visors for some reason but they are quite pricy and will probably come from Japan.

I have just bought a pair of brand new clear side indicators c/w new amber bulbs straight plug in job for NZ$39 the pair from here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194674347.htm If you sign up to Trade Me (it is possible from Aus) you could buy direct or otherwise I could get some for anyone interested. But the relevance to this thread is that he also stocks a range of exhaust tips (steel, not stainless) from about $75. If you look on his entry above and click on "seller's other listings" you can see the tips but not shown are a number of twin tips (a range of single entry sizes including 3in) coming out of one muffler - cost about $150.00. I just got in today before he closed for Xmas and i don't know when he will open but when he does i will go in and take a few pics and post them up. If you want here is an HKS Stagea specific muffler: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194346844.htm

Lucky you having a manual! Best bang for buck is to bypass your boost solenoid - more boost, quicker pick-up nil cost.Cat back won't do much - you need a 3in exhaust from the turbo right through (gut the cat or buy a high flow one). Full exhaust will give heaps more power. FMIC won't do much at this stage but if you're keen it will be necessary when you go for the big numbers. Since you have a manual I would go for a computer next so that you can gain full advantage of each successive mod (New Link or second hand PFC). Good safety measure to test or replace your fuel pump. If you get a computer that lot should get you up to around 200RWKW. If you can't afford a computer you could buy an Apexi SAFC and SITC and then sell them later when you do buy a computer (both currently for sale on this forum).

Everything points to something that you have done recently but the symptoms are similar to what just happened to our Toyota Corona: Car would start and run but no ignition lights, no indicators horn or dash lights. After checking all the fuses took it to a sparky who replaced the ignition switch. They are quite expensive so if you could borrow one you could eliminate that possibility.

Nistune can be fitted to anyone who can wait while they post their ECU to be fitted and returned ( I guess ideally to a spare ECU) but currently they are not available for the Series I Stagea (nor the R33 Skyline) but only the R32, R34 and thus neo powered Series II Stageas.

Well I've got an Apexi SAFC to control the AFRs and an Apexi SITC to control the timing and a GReddy Speed Limiter Cut Controller to get rid of the 180Km/hr speed limit. One of the guys who has an E-manage piggy back may want to contribute but i can't see what it would do more than my set up. If I were to buy an after-market computer it would be the Link 4 (NZ made and also sold in AU as the "Vipec") which apparently one ot two people have put on their autos. I don't know how they have worked out.

Had my new GCG on my Series I for a couple of weeks now. If you by-pass your solenoid i think you will notice much improved take off. In fact mine is making too much flow - I am getting some compressor surge in places. I will be able to eliminate this with further fine tuning of the IEBC (by reducing the boost at lower revs by 1 or 2 psi) but I am also going install an adjustable exhaust cam gear and I believe this will enable me to up the boost in the midrange (no problems at present at 5000 -7000 with 16psi). My 80 to 120 time is below 4 sec now and I will get it dynoed when the exhaust cam gear has been fitted. Let me know when you have installed the IEBC and I will PM you some tuning tips I have learned the hard way (a couple of tank-fulls of fuel and hours of time).

I have been running it in my Stagea RS4T (series 2 RB25DET) for about a year including track days - no problems.

Sorry not local to Sydney but timing belt info is in here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html

Try weighing them as well. I got a good looking set of 18in "mags"which turned out to be off a Hyundai 4 wheel drive and weighed a ton so i had to ditch them at a loss. (Dramatically increasing unsprung weight will negatively affect your handling)

Assuming that you've done it correctly (i.e. no hoses now connected to the solenoid , hose going from intercooler pipe to T, hose going from T to actuator and the other going to BOV return pipe and the restrictor now in the line going to the blow off return pipe), increasing the size of the hole in the restrictor should give you more boost - or if you are able to be carefull with your accelerator foot you could remove the restrictor altogether for test puposes and see if your boost guage starts heading for 20psi. If it does then just drill out the restrictor a bit at a time until you get 10psi. If it doesn't ... 1. Your boost guage is no good (how does the car go? feel like its being boosted or not? 2. Leaks in the intercooler and or piping 3. Gasket leaks 4. Your turbo is no good 5. Your wastegate is malfunctioning

Sorry I don't have the answer to your question only more questions. Why would you want 9in rims and then get narrower tyres and "stretch" them? You would degrade both the handling (cornering ability) and ride (comfort) especially with 30 profile tyres.

Hi Tangles I have just got my GCG highflow fitted and I'm getting 190AWKW. I was hoping for 200 but will be putting in an adjustable exhaust cam gear and with a better tune should top the magic 200. What do you mean by "extra fuel"? Are you getting bigger injectors?

Doh! I keep thinking about RS260s whenever my auto or lack of computer bugs me, and I can't remember the 2 wheel drive model. I know the S is the manual - is it also 2 wheel drive? I thought the V was the 2 wheel drive?

Join the club. Very upsetting to see damage to your fine car and doubly upsetting when its self inflicted. Just had that very repair to my car...new guard and painting $700. If you can find a guard the right colour you could possibly do it yourself.

If you want to run in 2WD all the time the best (and in my view the only) way is to get a 2WD Stagea. They are around - you just have to look for them (RS260 and I think the other, cheaper, one is the RS4V).

Shouldn't be a problem. I'm running 16psi on my Trust SMIC and people have done 220AWKW on the GTT SMIC (bit bigger than the stock Stagea) but if a front mount is in the planning then yes doing them all at the same time makes a lot of sense.

With a good tune you could get around 130 - 140AWKW at 10 psi. I doubt that you would see much difference from the new fuel pump but if you've already got one why wouldn't you install it now - might give you a little more security of fuel supply (safety rather than more power). You'll get a dramatic improvement from a new front pipe and three inch exhaust system (gut the cat or ditch it depending where you are)...at least another 30 AWKW I take it you have a manual?

Any competent shock shop or particularly anyone advertising as Bilstein agents should be able to revalve Bisteins to your requirements. I was luck enough to get some (4) second hand Bilsteins supplied and completely rebuilt for NZ$600

I could say its heaps better since i put in the airbox with the Pipercross panel filter but then i would be no better than the guys who put on a pod filter and say their car goes miles faster. In truth i can't tell the difference. However SK has done the research (and written it up here somewhere) with temperature sensors in the filter area and one outside in the cold air stream and the difference can be very great. I have no doubt that if you made up a heat shield such as the one shown in the link from my previous post and fitted a cold air supply you would have a perfectly satisfactory set up complete with sound effects ( a plus for some, a negative for others). I am also sure that my set up with a highflow filter in the standard airbox will be just as effective but I am adding a cold air supply to the top of the airbox from behind the LH headlight and fitting an air diverter, and making a shroud to direct all the air from the LH scoop into my Trust SMIC ( which incidentally has been coping well on my track days when although the engine, tyres and brakes are all as hot as the intercooler pipes remain OK. In fact I had upped my turbo timer to 5 min on track days but I have cut it back to 2 min because i noticed that when I pulled up and felt the intercooler pipes they were OK but after 5 min idling they were really hot - absorbing the surrounding heat. BTW my GCG turbo has got me another 35 KW from 155 AWKW @ 10psi (stock turbo) to 190 @ 14psi so i hope with a little more fiddling I will make my 200AWKW at 16psi.

I got rid of my pod and put a standard airbox and snorkel back with a highflow filter because I found the sucky noise tiresome. I am going to add a cold air supply to the top of the airbox. If you really want a pod you will be sucking in hotter air unless you have a heat shield. Here is a link to the best i have seen so far: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...at-t208224.html

I have no idea how the Greddy profec works - I have the Jaycar EIBC myself - but if no-one else contacts you with personal knowledge here is a link with quite a bit of information:http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/profecb2/profecb.htm

All solved thanks...just a matter of finding the right locations!!