KiwiRS4T

This "may" be fine if you have a R33GTR but it is definitely not OK for your Stagea and can result in expensive damage as you will know if you have researched this site.

They actually rebuild yours. In my case i bought one off a SAU member in Sydney and am getting that highflowed as i didn't want to be without mine while it goes from Auckland to Sydney and back.

Your diagram is correct so if you have connected from the intercooler pipe to the actuator with a bleed going back to the bov return pipe then I would expect better than 0.4 bar. Is this true all the way to 7000rpm? i.e. does it not increase with high revs? You could try a simple experiment - pull the hose off the actuator and try it carefully at first and then with more and more and see if your boost goes up. If it doesn't then you have to find out why - turbo no good, intercooler leaking, hoses leaking wastegate stuck open? If the boost does go up with the actuator disconnected then maybe the actuator (spring) is stuffed.

Just to clarify (looking at your other post there sems to be room for misunderstanding) when i say leave it on i mean normally leave the overdrive in operation i.e. do not use the overdrive off switch except as above.

The above looks a little confusing - when I say leave it on all the time I mean leave the overdrive in the "on" position (i.e. do not use the button to switch it off) except when going down hill while towing or thrashing it through a windy section of road when you want it to hold 3rd.

Leave it on all the time. Save petrol, engine wear. Now that you know there is a kickdown switch you won't be surprised by what happens when you floor the pedal. You can develop a smooth driving style by managing the accelerator pedal to keep it in the highest possible gear and with practice you can make it go into 3rd or 2nd at will. The only time i would turn it off is if you are going down a steep hill while towing or if you are giving it hell through a winding stretch and you want to hold it in 3rd.

Well of course the big one is replacing the cam belt and another major is replacing the automatic transmission fluid (in the gearbox -ten to twelve litres, [not just what's in the pan], attessa and power steering if you are keen). Also transfer case, diffs? There are tutorials or at least advice on most of these in the DIY section above. I'll list what the handbook says for the 40,000 service(no I haven't done them all either) with a few observations of my own thrown in: Lubrication: Renew engine oil and filter Clean batt term Drain, flush, refill cooling system [check/replace hoses] Check engine bay and underneath (for leaks, loose bolts) Check power steering, brake, clutch (if you're lucky enough to have one). Engine: Adjust valve clearance Renew spark plugs Air filter check vacuum advance adjust [replace?] all drive belts replace fuel filter Auto renew ATF, filter check/adjust throttle position sensor Brakes: check rotors, pads, linings and drums (parking brake) replace fluid Service air cond Check suspension and steering joints bushes. That should keep you going for a while!

My RB25DET stagea has a three row ecu but I presume yours has the two rows? You didn't post up your diagram but here is a nice clear one: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resourc...san_Skyline.php

I seem to remember RB20, 25 and neo were all the same price although I suppose you could get different specs with your larger exhaust housing. They no longer have prices on their website but there is an email address. http://www.gcg.com.au/

I have just sent an R33 turbo to GCG to be highflowed. My turbo was going OK but after doing one track day I would like to do some more and i want more power so i didn't want to wait for my turbo to blow (posibly at an inconvenient time) but decided to replace it as a planned move. Why GCG? I didn't want to buy any second hand or new knock-offs because I am not interested in taking a punt. Fair enough if you want to - others have been lucky. New HKS kits were from $3000 upwards and other new Garrett turbos around $2000 would need a lot of money spent to get them in (parts and time). So I am happy to pay $1770 + freight (SAU price) for a known good ball bearing steel internals (effectively brand new) turbo with a good track record that will bolt straight back in with no drama. [bTW I have a basic Turbosmart fpr which seems fine]

I don't know if your timing belt needs replacing but here is a tutorial: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html

Got sick of the noise of the pod. Unless you shield it and get a cold air supply you're better of with the stock box anyway. I got a Pipercross (highflow) panel filter PP1128-MX [The place I bought it from actually lists it as a "group N special to suit Impreza version 1 - 9]. I don't know that its better than the HKS etc but its about 2/3 the price.

A lot of RB25s make that power fairly easily. I would have thought your set up would be capable of a lot more ( more boost, better tune?) or is that a deliberately conservative figure?

If you are planning major engine modifications i think parts are more readily available for the RB25DET of the C34 and i prefer the look but the standard turbo M35 has more power and more upmarket features (and actually looks better in the metal than in the photos).

Yes, sorry couldn't help myself. Comes from being an old git I suppose. I will keep such thoughts to myself in future.

Those are pretty good times. By making small increases in timing I got my SI down from 11 sec to 9 sec so i think the timing is too retarded but I'll leave it for now as i have a turbo being highflowed at GCG and will get the car properly tuned on a dyno when it has been installed.

1. Record the sucking noise and the flutter. 2. Get rid of the pod and fit the original airbox and snorkel with a high flow panel filter. 3. Play the sucking noise and flutter through your stereo.

GCG in (near) Sydney offer a discount to SAU members. Steel wheels, ball bearings, bolt straight in. R34 has slightly bigger exhaust housing. many Stagea owners (mostly autos) are getting 200 to 240awkw from them. Get a transmission cooler ($99 from supercheap) and a shift kit (MV Autos).

It comes with new bushes but unlike rears you have to use old links.

I've never driven a tiptronic Stagea but I drive a range of auto and semi auto trucks which all have an interlock that prevents you from selecting a totally inappropriate gear. Does the Stagea not have this feature?

I don't know that there is an off the shelf part specifically for your application ( I could be wrong). The three grooves for alternative circlip heights are a standard feature that should suit most people but you can get more machined in for extreme applications. I don't know if there is a special Bilstein for the rear "fork" but I do know that a proper Bilstein agency (and a quick Google suggests they are spread across Australia) will be able to adapt the fitting and the valving to suit your car. Depending on where you are the phone book should be a good place to start enquiries.

Get the Bilsteins (I did) and that will give you some height adjustment. If your shocks are still in good nick you will be able to sell them to someone with shot shocks who doesn't want or can't afford better handling. The Whiteline part no for my rear bar was BNR11XZ but mine is AWD - RS4T series I so it may or may not fit your car.

Your solenoid is not dual boost. It cycles at two different rates determined by the ECU. The IEBC is wired in to replace this function of the ECU and will cause the solenoid to cycle at up to 64 different rates. It is not a good practice to earth the solenoid permanently. You would be better to reroute the hoses (bypassing the solenoid altogether) as per the ten minute fix detailed in the Jaycar thread. I'm too tired to put in a link for you but let me know if you can't find it and i"ll do that tonight (that's tomorrow AU time).

An auto electrician should be able to check while you wait: Starter Motor (excessive current draw = on way out) Alternator - measure output Battery - with tester.

Stagea final drive is 4.3, GTR is 4.11 so if you can get away with just changing the crownwheels front and rear then that might be OK. Go to the Stagea section/ DIY section/ transmissions/ to read about what is involved in changing the whole diff! I am pretty sure that getting the 6 spd box will be ultra expensive and probably make little or no difference to your fuel consumption. My suggestions: 1. Do the full big bore exhaust from front to back (ditching the cat if legal where you are, gutting if not) 2. Put a pipercross airfilter element (PP1128-MX) in your standard airbox 3. Fit an Apexi SAFC and SITC 4. get a good tune After this your car will go like a rocket but if you are disciplined and stick to your 120km/hr cruise you should see an improvement in your fuel consumption. As well as (or instead of) the above you could fit 17in or 18in wheels and instead of going for an ultra low profile to maintain the same rolling circumference choose a taller profile (similar to what you have now). This will raise your gearing (and require your speedo to be recalibrated).