KiwiRS4T

I would recommend getting an Apexi SAFC (basic MK1 will do the job or get a Mk2 or neo if you're keen or build the Jaycar one) and an Apexi SITC. Otherwise you have no way of tuning your car.[i don't think the nistune tunable ecu is ready for our Stageas yet] The SMIC shouldn't be a problem yet but there was a R34GTT one for sale which should see you through to 200 -210 AWKW if you don't want a FMIC in the future. As an insurance replace your (presumably 10 year old) fuel pump and get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

I am sure it will be a narrow band. Good as some of the Jaycar stuff is I think you will find it not possible to get sufficient accuracy from a narrow band sensor for tuning purposes.

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

Looks good to me. When i did it with the standard actuator spring I moved the restrictor into the line that goes to the bov return line and altered the size of the restrictor (bigger for more boost smaller for less). I don't know how it goes with the 10lb spring I guess you could experiment or maybe others who have done it can tell you. I am also getting an R32actuator on my high flow but I now have a Jaycar IEBC.

I don't really see that you have a problem (other than running a stock turbo at 14psi). 240hp looks pretty good for your setup. Can't quite see the point in trying to wind it up past 7000 rev/min.

Yep give them a good spray and leave them overnight . Before applying twisting torque give them a good tap end on with a hammer. I call the extractor things ezy-outs which may or may not be a brand name. Use a small drill to make a hole as central as possible and then enlarge the hole before tapping in the extractor tool. Not a nice job. Good luck.

Here is a turbo for $350 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Clean-t244090.htmland for $250 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...bo-t243967.html and this guy's asking $500 although I am sure you could get that down a lot: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...ur-t243564.html

Got mine from Nissan for about NZ$300 (they call them sun visors for some reason).

Need to tread a little carefully here. There appears to be a formal discount arrangement with the NSW SAU car club (as opposed to the SAU forum). However I believe the discount originated in the group buy initiated by SK some years ago and GCG are (therefore) happy to give the discounted price so long as you state that you are an SAU member and can quote a reference number. I couldn't find my SAU number (it is 49 thousand something and i have spent some time just now trying to figure out where I saw it but I ca'nt find it to tell you where to look) so instead I have quoted the 3 digit ID number I received when i made a donation to SAU (you have all made a donation, haven't you?) which I think will be fine.

Answer is in this thread 3 posts back (17)

Sounds right - those mods will give you more boost. The stock solenoid is not a sophisticated boost controller.

Of course people can do whatever they like with their own cars but I would never advise anyone else to change their timing or afrs without some means of detecting knock or measuring afrs because a mistake - too much advance or too lean - and "bang"! hole in piston = new engine.

The discounted price to SAU members for a GCG highflow is $1770 plus freight. You have to provide a turbo (your own or a stuffed one).

Broken manifold studs are common on these engines and it would be a good idea to eliminate future leaks by checking and replacing while you are taking the turbo off.

I got my Bilsteins (in NZ) for about half that by getting a set that had been traded in .The Bilstein trained guy reconditioned and valved them to suit my Stagea - you could try phoning around.

Which lines had to go through the firewall? My Jaycar EIBC connections are all made at the ecu. I expect there is a vent which should go to the bov return pipe rather than atmosphere.

This thread is full of the blind leading the blind. I believe (but don't know for sure) that pulling fuses can disable the Atessa on R32 Skylines. I have no idea about R33s There is a case history in the Stagea section of this forum of someone causing expensive damage to their Stagea by putting it on a two wheel dyno having pulled some fuses but not the driveshaft and have read a convincing explanation of why this happens. I personally won't be running my Stagea in 2wd mode anytime soon ( I guess I'm lucky there are half a dozen or more 4wd dynos within half an hour of my place).

We have just been having this discussion...read the last few pages of the turbo replacement thread above (or below).

I'm really interested in the use of the standard knock sensor. I have an SITC and a SAFC and want to tune my own engine. I got an LM2 to do the afrs but have been looking for a knock detection device. Guilt Toy suggests that you need a K-Mon device at about $1200 to do the job but are you suggesting that if i can get something to read from the standard knock sensors that i can use that reading to adjust timing across the rev range?

i think so but at $400 i'm just buying them for the rims -am looking at getting 4 RE050 245/45/18s

There is just such a thread on the next page (scroll down to the bottom and click on next page). BTW it is not easy to convert AWD into RWD ...if you're going to repower it just get a n/a car which are mostly RWD.

I assume that the standard timing of 15 deg already requires the best possible petrol. My suggestion is that any extra advance should be done only with the use of reliable knock detection gear (usually only found with dyno operators - i am after some myself but it seems you need to spend the $1100 for the K-mon or suchlike). You can easily destroy your motor with excessive advance. Ideally you need an aftermarket computer or at least an Apexi SITC so that you can adjust the timing at several points in the rev range. I've got a SITC but I will have to get it tuned on a dyno until I can get my own quality knock detector.

Looked at some 350Z wheels I am bidding on and tried them. They fit fine on my S1 lowered about 35mm. They are 18in by 8 offset +30(5stud x114,3). Potenzas front 225/45 18 rear 245/45 18

You need more castor - i have mine over 5 (can't find the chart ATM) to give more straight lline steadiness at top speeds.

Did you try pulling the hose off the actuator (and perhaps plugging all the hoses)?If you get stuff all boost then check for leaks and unless anyone has a better idea it may be turbo off time. Or see if the actuator is stuck.