KiwiRS4T

How do they compare price wise?

Here's a black wagon but I don't think its the one from the video because that one appeared to have lost his roof rails.

There's a few Stagea owners on SDU http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/index.php but no where near as many as on SAU. There are several stealthy RB26 powered cars in Auckland but they are going too fast for me to speak to the owners. There's one stock looking car with a number plate surround that says "2.6L V8 eater" that shot by out West at the speed of light. My own ambitions are more modest...limited by lack of $$$ so currently 155 AWKW and probably have to settle for about 220AWKW when I have saved up for a new turbo.

Electronic gauges seem to be very expensive. I can get ordinary ones second hand for $20 or $30. You could just run a plastic tube around the side of the bonnet and through the door until you can find/afford your ideal electronic one ...you can't tune the IEBC without one.

Maybe not. have a read of the RB20 turbo upgrades at the top of this section. WLD032 View Member Profile Add as Friend Send Message Find Member's Topics Find Member's Posts View Trader Rating Members Registry <script type=text/javascript> ipsmenu.register( "post-member-3978473", '', 'popmenubutton-new', 'popmenubutton-new-out' ); 29 Jun 2008, 09:14 AM Post #195 Rank: RB20E Posts: 1 Joined: 23rd May, 2007 Car(s): skylin r32 gts-t Real Name: ash Trader Rating : 0 i have a 1993 R32 GTS-T 170,000kmz K&N Pod air filter Cold air intake platnuim spark plugs 300x600 front mount 2.5" turbo back exhaust Walbro intank fuel pump SAAD fuel reg Garrett GT2871R turbo Greddy electronic boost controller @15psi made 186.4rwkw on 19" wheelz goal is to hit 250

Sorry,I read your last post first. If you have an IEBC I wouldn't bother with the temp rerouting - get the IEBC fitted. If you are not confident in hacking in to your ECU it should only take a sparky used to working on car computers half an hour to make the necessary connections for you. I got a needle valve from an engineering pipeline supplies outfit but together with the connectors needed to accept the piping that you are using you could easy spend $60. I would recommend using the restrictor found in the system (sometimes there is a band on the hose to indicate its position or you could just squeeze the hose till you find it) or if you can solder up the T and then drill a hole in it that would be satisfactory too (but get the restrictor out of its current position as well).

Yes but it is quite important that you do it in the right way and relocate the restrictor as per the instructions.

I haven't seen under the bonnet of a Series II but the written instructions should still apply. Start from the solenoid and you should be able to trace the hose from the intercooler pipe (probably the top pipe on the solenoid) the one that goes to the T: one to the wategate actuator and one to the bov return pipe.

You won't see the brass restrictor but you should be able to find it by squeezing the hoses. An alternative is to remove the restrictor altogether and solder up the bit of the T that goes to the blow off valve return and drill it out to the required diameter. Apparently some people cut off the ends of welding tips (thus getting a known sized hole) and push them in the pipe. I am using a needle valve which gives me infinite adjustment and made it easy to go from the rerouted hoses to my EIBC but that is probably overkill. The reasons not to earth the solenoid are 1. You are limited to the amount of boost you can get 2. Obviously as it is now on all the time not just when boost is required you will wear it out sooner ( but not in the short term - it will work as you say in the meantime).

I don't know much about skylines but i believe the Stagea Atessa is similar to the R34 system (and different to the earlier versions). people are running 240AWKW (and more) throught the auto. have a read of the Auto trans FAQ in the DIY section above. Some have converted to manual. The Stagea 260RS comes with GTR running gear incl manual.

Sorry i tried to email the file but after uploading for half an hour on my so-called broadband connection I had to go to work so left it running and when I came back it had failed so i guess it is too big. I bought a whole CD of manuals off "Chook" (Simon) on this website. ...Bob

Don't earth the solenoid - just by-pass it but not quite like you did. Follow the instructions below (courtesy of SK -photo may be found here on post #40 ): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 ) and you engine will not blow up nor the sky fall down and you can adjust it to whatever pressure you want although 10psi is considered safe (some people run 12 without problems - I ran this setup for months until finally, yesterday, I installed and set up my Jaycar Boost controller which is working perfectly: . This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). But the Jaycar Boost Controller needs the bypass to relieve trapped pressure between the solenoid and the wastegate actuator. So I don't want to redrill the restrictor only have to solder it back up again OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose thaty goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

I have been running a 10% ethenol mix in my car (1997 Stagea RB25DET) for about 6 months with no changes to fuel lines etc and no ill effects so far - there is supposed to be corrosion inhibitors included in the fuel. Regarding water absorbtion the Oil Company (Gull in my case) put this forward as a plus saying it will get rid of water from your fuel tank. I haven't suffered any starting problems even on very cold mornings (2 deg C e.g.).

I have an R33 RB26DETT manual but it is in PDF form so I can't copy and paste from it (although if you are real keen send me an email address and I will send you the whole file as an attachment). However the R32 pinout above is pretty much the same with the following differences: *The R32 pinout diagram lists pins 109 to 117 (missing 113). I think this is just a typo as the chart goes from 109 to 116 inclusive. * pin 6 on the R33 is blank * pin 104 and 106 are the other way round!? *pin 17 RB33 says Ïnjection pulse (Ti monitor) signal *pin 109 RB33 says ïnjector power supply (counter electromotive reflex circuit) " maybe the same thing? *pin 115 RB33 says: Exhaust gas sensor heater ground Otherwise appears to be the same.

Do you have a pinout diagram? This may be the one although there are variations: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=31087

Looks good. It seems the inherently lower energy content is more than compensated for by the ability to run a lot more advance and boost (so possibly not better for n/a cars but will be interested in any test results). I look forward to seeing Guilt Toy's results.

Your meter reads lambda but it can be set to display lambda or it could be set to express the lambda as an air/fuel ratio (typically 14.7 down to 12 under power). It is not measuring the air fuel ratio but simply displaying an equivalent figure. So at a lambda of 1 the afr for petrol will be displayed as 14.7 . If you change to E85 then at a lambda of 1 your meter will still say 14.7 which is fine for tuning purposes although the actual ratio will be very different (your figure of 9.76 for example). Some meters (such as my LM2) can be recalibrated to read the afr for say E85 but there is not much point as you can just as easily tune it with the lambda figure or the numbers with which you are familiar. Also if you find yourself somewhere that doesn't have E85 you will then have a tank full of E50 until your tank is full of either petrol or E85. If you leave your meter as it is it will always give you a meaningful reading. Also if you use your meter on other cars with no ethanol you don't have to keep changing the display.

I have been using a 10% ethanol fuel for about six months with no ill effects that I can tell but an 85% mix sounds a bit much. Ethanol contains less energy than petrol so your fuel consumption will get worse. (People who think it is an economy fuel will imagine that it is getting better but you need to accurately measure your fuel use in litres per 100km) If you are buying the E85 much cheaper than ordinary petrol then you may save money.It has a higher octane rating which means you can advance the timing a bit and make up for some of the power you are losing. It would be good to dyno a car with only a change in fuel and tuning optimal for each fuel. I suspect with E85 it would make less power but haven't done this myself. The main reason for using ethanol in cars is to save the planet, not make the car go faster (that's nos). But it is only good for the planet if it is coming from a sustainable source ( e.g. a by product of dairy factories) and is not diverting crops from food production as with highly subsidised US farmers. PS Lambda settings should not be different for a car using an ethanol mix. If you have a meter set to read in afrs then you should continue to use the same numbers although the actual air/fuel ratios will be different (yes i had to think about that for a while too!)

200hp would be good or 200kw with a high flow turbo. Post up your dyno chart. What is happening to the air/fuel ratios? If it is leaning out at high revs/boost you could damage your engine. Have you tried turning the boost down to 10psi - does it make any difference?

Superior Supensions Pty Ltd (SK) +61 (2) 9603 0100or tryNolathane 4 Warringah Close Somersby NSW Australia 2250 ABN 99 124 177 297 Australia Phone: (02) 4340 2355 Fax: (02) 4340 2466

Google turned up heaps of digital pressure gauges but they are around $400 - $500 and that's without a remote sender unit!!

You may be right with pin 18 but I have two different pinouts/wiring diagrams that say pin 13 for fuel pump (including one thats colour coded b/p). One says nothing for pin 18 and the other puts pin 18 among the lights and switches for overdrive on/off! So if you replace your pump and all is well then you are OK -- if not, time to check out pin 13.

SK (Gary Cook) can be hard to reach via this forum. Here is a link which provides an address for his business from which you can buy bushes:http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/146_bars.pdf

If you are interested you can look on the innovatemotorsports.com website to find the manual for the LM2 meter. There is a section on OBDII which leads me to believe that all I need is a physical connection between the consult port and the OBDII plug that comes with the LM2 and the software will enable me to select up to 16 channels (I believe the consult has only 14) and manipulate the data. Of course no-one is going to buy a $700 LM2 for this purpose but it seems to me that when this little adaptor arrives (a double sided plug as you describe it) I will be able to access my ecu through the LM2 and/or a laptop connected to it as an additional feature of my LM2 (which I bought for tuning AFRs).