JimX

I think that's more to do with the size of the turbo than the BOV, I think it's a sign that the air is not flowing smoothly and will wear out the turbo faster than usual. Either way, I've heard a few different types of bovs do it. Mine does it, but when I heard a sample of it played on a website, it didn't have the fluttering sound. I've got a GReddy Type R bov, and a T04 turbo. It doesn't do it everytime either, if I'm revving the engine hard and do a quick change it doesn't seem to get time to make the fluttering sound.

Holy crap, how can you say that's not a lot of power? :eek1: For an engine with stock internals I'd say that anything over 200rwkw is pretty beefy. What percentage of the power gains do you think are related to the air/fuel ratio, and how what percentage is the timing? I'm still trying to decide if I should install my S-AFC or sell it and get a full ECU replacement. (gotta save up a lot if I want to do the latter option)

I'll see if I can get some measurements on the weekend, and hopefully buy the MDF too. I'm going to make it as thin as possible while still making it sturdy, because I don't want it coming through the rear seat panel and slicing my passengers in half! :eek1: I don't think I'll be able to actually make it this weekend though, I still need to find a jigsaw. A friend of mine who had one moved to England recently I'll tell you how I go on the weekend.

When I got my Skyline I went to put the big spare V8 Commodore battery I had leftover from my previous car but found that it wouldn't fit the factory mounting mechanism. Does anyone know if there's an easy way to get a bigger battery to fit? A different clamp seems to be the way to go, but I've got no idea where to get it from or what size I should use etc.

I'm going to design my own boot floor template so I can make one out of MDF. The factory one doesn't even fit properly! It uses bits of foam to rest on the spare tyre (which I've removed) and the rest of it doesn't appear to line up with any of the ridges in tbe boot. Before I go ahead and do this though, I just wanted to know if anyone else has done this before? I basically want a snug fit into the indentations around the spare tyre well so it won't move around, and I can then bolt a sub to it (or at least clip it on for easier removal of the 2 separate items). I also want to make it a lot sturdier than the factory cardboard stuff so that it doesn't require the spare tyre to give it stability. If no one's done it I'll just do my own from scratch and upload the finalised plans for anyone interested.

Can I ask who you imported the car through? That sounds incredibly dodgy to me, to leave bad paintwork off the report sheet. Bad paint is one of the most expensive things to fix once it gets past a certain stage because you'll be up for a full respray.

As the subject says, I want to plumb back my vent-to-air bov into the intake. If I can't get the official adapter or it's too expensive, can anyone give me any ideas on how to do it?

I assume you mean the springs. My front is about 20mm lower than the back, this was unintentional. I got a set of Whiteline springs which were meant to be the same front and back, but this is how they turned out. It doesn't look too bad, but I have a big problem with steep driveways and speed bumps. On one steep driveway I managed to rip the bumper off 1/4 of its mountings and tear up the paint underneath I learned my lesson since then though and now I'm very careful with anything that looks even moderately steep. The big ramp and Broadway shopping centre where I go a lot to see movies *just* scrapes, but I think it's something I'm willing to live with.

Ah thanks. Btw, anyone considering getting slotted or drilled rotors might want to consider these instead: http://www.dba.com.au/kanga_paw_design.asp Should cool better than slotted but without the associated extra pad wear. Of course if you get the slotted kangaroo paw rotors it'd be better still. When I get replacements I'm going to get the unslotted ones to extend my pad life.

I think I want to give the RB74's a go, where can you get them from for around $130? Mail order's fine

Yep that is a very good price, but I wouldn't say "ridiculously" cheap. A dealer would probably sell the car for high 20's, a "normal" private sale would be mid 20's. It is definitely priced for a quick sale at 22 even if it has >100k km, you should easily get asking price for it. If I didn't already have a car I think I'd buy it

Unfortunately most of the Japanese sports suspension (Tein, Tanabe, JIC, etc) is going to be rock-hard. There should be an adjuster nut in the centre of the top of the shock absorber, I'm not sure which direction is for the softer settings but common sense tells me anti-clockwise. Softer springs may help but I think most of the ride harshness is from the shock absorber. Custom springs for those large shocks is also going to cost a fair bit of money.

Erm, the box only goes on the engine side. There is nothing between that partition and the edge of the engine bay.

Yeah I think more than likely after I put the S-AFC in I won't need the FCD anymore, but since it was already in the car when I got it and the car runs very nicely with it in I'm not going to touch it until I put the S-AFC in. Should get my car back from the repair shop this Friday, hopefully I'll be motivated enough to put the S-AFC in the day after! But more than likely I'll just spend all weekend driving around, I've got withdrawl symptoms

I have an HKS fuel cut defender which came with the car. The manual is all in Japanese and I don't know how to adjust it I think there's an English online manual somewhere but I'm not going to touch it until after I put my S-AFC in.

I always go to Whiteline for my suspension stuff. They did a good setup on my Commodore a few years ago (bushes, front strut brace, and f/r swaybars fitted) and recently sold me a good set of Bilsteins with Whiteline coils for the Skyline. They aren't perfect though, their swaybays look kinda flimsy (but better than nothing) and the upright connecting rods on the swaybars were very weak on the Commodore and bent easily but they might have fixed that design flaw by now. Other than that they're streets ahead of any other suspension place I've been to. When I can afford it I'm going to get their swaybar/bush kit for the Skyline. I wouldn't go to Pedders, they're over-priced. The same Bilstein/spring setup from Pedders would have cost me $200 more if I bought it from them, obviously not Whiteline springs but something similar. And their labour was about $30 more than Whiteline for fitting it (I did the fitting myself anyway so saved a couple more hundred).

Here's my cold air box with the lid on and off, cost me $180 or so I think? Very nice black and shiny fibreglass, took about half an hour to fit. If you want to look at some different angles, click these: Front left Front right From above, minus lid I did a big post-up a month or 2 ago, do a search in this forum for cold air box or something. I don't think any of the pics will still work because I've done a reshuffle of my webspace since then and I cbf'd fixing them

Skylines are pretty low-maintenance cars, you should be able to do everything yourself. The only thing you have to do really is change the oil and filter every 10000km (I prefer 5000km) and check/adjust your belts and levers and fluids. You don't even really need to check the spark plugs unless you're really enthusiastic or if the car isn't running properly. Being platinum they will last a very long time. Even things like gearbox and diff oil, the owner's handbook says you never have to change them if the vehicle is used privately! :eek1: For business cars (couriers etc) they say to change them every 100000km, which is still a very long time. I would suggest changing them as soon as you get the car and forgetting about them for the next couple of years.

Yeah NismoGirl don't sell the car, if you've spent that much then there can't be too much left to go wrong with it. Unless you replace it with a brand new car you may end up in the exact same position with regards to the repairs. It sounds like you got really unlucky, most Skylines do not have that many problems (though clutch/synchro's is common on ones ~7 years or older) but no matter what model of car you get there are always lemons (even Mercedes/BMW etc). At least once it's all fixed you'll know you'll have a good car even if it did cost you more than you thought it would.

Yep I'm up for the tint for sure I don't get the car back until the 18th or maybe the 21st so any time after then is fine.

Hi Gerds I won't call yet, because my car's still in the repair shop and I won't get it back for another 2 weeks or so. And then I'll have to make sure I have a few hundred left over to do the tint so it might be another week or 2 after that. If you want to clear your pm box, delete the inbox as well as the sent items.

As far as I know if your car was built pre-96 you will have less problems going darker than legal because 1996 is when the laws came into effect. I'm not sure if this means that you won't get defected for it or if just the penalties are less. Has anyone been done for having too-dark tint? What were the circumstances? (ie random car check, RBT, pulled over for speeding and also defected, pulled over just because the cops thought it looked too dark, etc) If the car was only 1-2 shades darker than legal I don't think there would be much of a problem with the cops. Gerds, I sent you a pmail but your inbox was full so you didn't get it. I also sent you an email via the site but I'm not sure if you received it or not because you didn't reply Please tell me if you got it or not.

Haha I actually tried removing the suspension with the wheels in place and I *almost* had it, but in the end there was just no way so I took the wheels off. I'm the kind of person who will spend 15 minutes trying to do something that could have been done in 30 seconds if I'd spent 2 minutes doing that extra bit first. I can't work out if I just want to see if it's possible for future reference or if I'm just lazy in a really stupid and counter-productive way.

You probably also have to remove the rear wheels, although that could have just been because I have 17x9's on the back of mine. Also if you have factory suspension or Bilstein/Whiteline suspension, you don't need a spring compressor (this is just info for anyone that has factory or Whiteline coils). You just have to put moderate pressure on the top using some of your bodyweight when installing or removing the top plates.

Mine are pretty clean, well the front one which is the worse of the 2 is accessible free of the glass and it's clean. I thought about replacing the felt because I think it's just worn down or something and probably not as soft as it used to be. I might try ringing some other tinting places that might have more experience with Skylines to see if they can offer any suggestions or even fix it for me. I know it's not rough enough to scratch glass because the passenger window is scratch-free. What's the best type of scratch-resistant tint? I know that there are plenty of different ones, but some must be better than others. Heat and UV reflection are also important.