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JimX

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  1. The blades are 6mm wide. The other option is 8mm but these are too big. The ones I bought the other day fit both though (they have 2 tracks). They are Aunger rubber coated in graphite. I wanted the silicone ones but they only came in bright blue which I thought looked too ricey. I forgot to buy a rear wiper
  2. I'd say that ticket could be contested. School Zones specify "school days", not "weekdays". So if that day was a school holiday for the school it surrounds, I reckon she could get the ticket anulled.
  3. Rev210, how is the Penrite stuff better than Mobil? How do you measure the effectiveness of an oil?
  4. Castrol says this about their Formula R 10W-60 oil: About the 5W-30 oil they say: And the 0W-40: I can't remember exactly, but I *think* the owner's manual specifies 10W-50 grade oil. That would make the 30 and 40 weight oils a tad too thin. I'll have to check the owner's manual when I get home. All of these Castrol synthetic oils are of very good quality though so it may not matter too much. Either way, I'm presently using the 10W-60 stuff and I have absolutely no bad things to say about it. The car doesn't use a single drop between oil changes. If you're changing oil regularly and often, it shouldn't really matter which brand you choose. Just get a good quality fully synthetic oil and you'll be ok. I personally chose Castrol over the Mobil because I like Larry Perkins better than Peter Brock
  5. I don't think I can afford the Bridgestones I actually had Marshal Power Racer 2 tyres put on the front a couple of weeks ago, they were $165 each, plus $10 or $20 each (I forget) to fit and balance them. Yeah, I'd never heard of them either I only got them because I discovered that due to a bad wheel alignment my Nankangs were down to the steel belts (!) on the inside edges, which I never noticed when checking my tyres. I had virtually no spare money so I had to get the cheapest of whatever was available. I'm not really sure how good/bad these tyres are. When I took the car out at first they were awful, but a couple of days later I discovered that the alignment I had done actually made the alignment WORSE! It was so bad, that on that shiny underground carpark concrete, the tyres would squeal like a bitch even in a completely straight line. They also feathered only after a couple of hundred k's. After I had the alignment re-done properly I never managed to push the car very hard. I'll see what happens this weekend if the weather fines up. They seem to be ok for such a cheapass tyre, they've got that flange on them to protect your rims too. The reason why I'm inquiring about tyres though is my rears are wearing thin and I was considering getting rid of the Marshals on the front and putting good stuff all round when the time comes.
  6. The most efficient car you can get will use around half the fuel of the Skyline. That's like a Daihatsu Charade or something. If you reckon that it will only cost you $30 per week to run the second car, as in pay for it, insurance, registration, maintenance, repairs, etc, then you will only just break even. I guess then you'll save some depreciation on the Skyline, but would it really be worthwhile? If you were going to do that you may as well get a motorcycle. At least then you'd have something a little different and a lot cooler than a Charade
  7. Thanks for all the links Duncan! Oh well, hopefully now when someone else searches for "tyres" in the Maintenance section they'll turn up your excellent thread summary
  8. I did a search on "tyre" and "tyres" without turning up much. Am I in the right section? I'll try the other sections.
  9. WD40 is just another type of oil so I wouldn't be putting that through my intake without some sort of solvent to follow it up with. So you may as well skip the WD40 step altogether and just go with the carbie cleaner. WHITE R32, that black stuff comes from your engine so there's no harm in feeding it back in. If there was then every car would come with an oil catch can or separator. The only harm it does is to clog up your AFM or coat the inside of your intercooler making it less efficient. It won't harm your engine at all.
  10. That sounds damned excellent. I get around 370 around town before I fill up (~50 litres or so) and get 500-600 or a little more on the freeway depending on if I fill up when the gauge reads empty or if I let it run till it's almost bone dry. I consider my car to be pretty light on fuel (13.5-15L/100km around town, 9.5-10.5L/100km on freeway) especially given its power output (~200rwkw) so your figures are pretty darned good.
  11. Does anyone know of a good brand/model of tyre that grips fairly well in the wet? I've heard good thinkgs about Yokohama A539's but I don't remember seeing any comments about their wet weather capability. Dry grip is also important, but not if the grip is sub-par in the rain. I also don't mind if the compound is slightly softer than normal if it has improved grip to show for it, but I'm not after the absolute best/softest/most expensive set. Preferably something below $200 per tyre. Oh, and they also have to come in sizes 235/17/45 and 255/17/55, and Z-rated. Is there a site reviewing different types of tyre? I found one sometime last year that was based in America, and it actually had figures submitted by readers, for grip, performance, noise, etc. But being in America most of the model numbers didn't match up to what we have here.
  12. Diff has about a litre, probably less.
  13. ShtyleZ, I don't think the combination of <18 years old, <$20k performance car with <$4k insurance is a possible combination. Unless you can somehow swing the insurance via your dad's work or something, if he can get fleet insurance. I've heard of people doing that before, lumping their own policy in with their parents' company and paying even less than a >30 year old with 60% NCB can get on their own.
  14. If the discs are glazed you should probably machine them anyway because the glazing doesn't help your stopping power. You don't have to replace the pads just because you machine the discs, you do however need to sand them back so they're flat. Get some 80 grit emery and sand the pads back until they're flat again. Be careful you don't chamfer them off on a strange angle. Also wet the pads before sanding so you don't inhale any of the fibres. The anti-squealing compound helps but doesn't always work 100%, especially on the harder pads like RB74's.
  15. Front rotors won't fit on back. Oh, and I'll have to withdraw from this deal too I measured my discs last night and they're only worn half a millimetre. Obviously been replaced at some point.
  16. I'm considering buying this one but from what I can see it only has one inlet and a breather to vent to the engine bay, thus making it as illegal as my current cheapass crankcase breather. Autospeed have an article somewhere on how to make your own, should cost less than $50 but doesn't look as good as the above one.
  17. Well, I haven't rung them up yet, but I was gonna call Racebrakes as per Poyz's suggestion.
  18. I was a Holden man for many years, but I always liked the GTR Skyline and Ford Sierra which I saw racing at Bathurst, but never thought I'd be able to afford one! I still can't afford a GTR but a GTS-t is the next best thing. Here's a rundown on what I've had over the years in chronological order: (all manual box unless specified) Mini (learned to drive in it) LJ Torana 4 door 173 (shitbox) XY Futura with WILD 302 Windsor (with bald tyres and crap brakes, disaster waiting to happen) UC Torana hatch 202 auto LX Torana sedan 253 UC Torana hatch 202 (worked) and celica 5sp box VS Commodore V6 auto VS Commodore V8 modified almost as wild as the XY, but only got around 160rwkw. Still a bloody good car for a Commodore. Had brake & suspension mods too. Its handling and stopping power surprised a lot of people. The R33 still does it better though. I think it's funny how so many of us have upgraded to a Skyline from all sorts of other engine configurations - 3, 4, 6, or 8 cylinder doesn't seem to matter, the turbo 'line is an upgrade to all of them
  19. Sweet. Anyone else want an aftermarket Repco one then? There's no immediate rush on the order because my 100k service is still probably a couple of months away, but I plan to have the water pump ahead of time so there's no last minute panic. I'll have to confirm the price but I'm pretty sure it'll be less than $80 (retail price) unless the guy stuffed up and gave me the trade price by mistake, in which case it should be $80.
  20. Here's one of mine.
  21. Duncan, I'm thinking that most of the brake fade on the Commodore was attributed to the small rotors with single pot callipers, so I probably *wouldn't* get anywhere near as much fade on the Skyline. Old brake fluid could also be a contributing factor though. I'll never know, because soon after that incident I replaced the front brakes with the twin pot VT's. Problem mostly solved Though I still got some fade on the cheaper but still heavy duty pads. But even still, the Ultimates are only rated to 550 degrees and are dusty as hell and hurt your rotors, I'm just thinking that for similar money and side effects the RB74 would be a better choice. Have we got any options other than Ultimates, RB74's, or Greenstuff? Ta for the info Poyz. If I can't find any other alternatives I think I'll get the RB74's.
  22. Nah of course not, until last year I used to drive one! But you definitely notice a lot more bogans in Commodores showing a lot of insecurity to people driving turbo Jap imports. From the first night I picked up the Skyline I noticed the idiot bogan in a Commodore ratio increase about tenfold. I think deep down most of them realise that their car is inferior, so they try to make up for this by trying to "prove" they are better drivers by doing stupid shit, like going 2x the speed limit past you, cutting you off, etc. The moron I talked about prevsiouly in the V6 VP is the best example I can think of, happening to me.
  23. /me kicks Duncan in da nuts Ok, the reason why I don't want Bendix again is because I had Ultimates in my previous car (VS Commodore). I could get the pads to fade VERY easily, just with spirited street driving. This isn't even exceeding the speed limit, just accelerating hard up to the limit and braking hard whenever required. The worst incident was after one night's hooning with a carful of passengers I went to pull up in a dead end street and it took about 3 seconds for the pads to bite even though my foot was hard on the brakes. I'm lucky I didn't mount the curb! I drove home sedately after that and decided to not buy Bendix pads anymore. Keep in mind that these were the Ultimates, which have a lot of dust and chew rotors probably around the same as the RB74's, but they're only rated to 550 degrees. Since these are the best Bendix have to offer, I can't see myself buying Bendix pads again unless they come up with something better. Oh, can someone pleeease tell me where to buy the RB74's? A lot of you seem to have them, where can I get them from?
  24. Can someone please confirm if the R33 RB25DET water pump is the same as in a VL? I've seen people state that it's the same as an RB20's, but no one seems to have mentioned if it's also the same as the RB25's. The reason I ask is Repco sell an aftermarket water pump for around $80 retail for a VL, which is much cheaper than Nissan/Holden ($110-$130). I should also be able to get a trade price making it cheaper again. Oh, I could also get other people a trade price if they were interested. But I need to confirm first that it's the same as the VL's, or if not, whether or not Repco sell something that will fit the RB25.
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