pipster11

come one guys need to know as its leaking quite a lot now

Ok so i've noticed some leakage of brake fluid (had to top it up occasionally for the last two weeks) and you guessed it, its coming out of the abs unit now i saw the guide on replacing the seals in it but i dont know if i'm up to the job (i'm lacking allan keys and only have basic tools at my disposal as i'm in tas and all my tools are in qld) is there a quick fix i can do (as in a conditioner to plump the seals up) just for the mean time i was going to bleed the brakes cos the fluid is dirty will fresh fluid help with the leaking or make it worse? Let me know what you think as i will budget for which ever way i need to go Thanks Tom (i was hoping i could leave it till i get back to qld (in either june/july or at the end of the year)

hey guys pretty sure its the tps thats being gay in my car so i need a new/replacement one if you have one let me know and i'll bring some cashola for you Thanks Tom

just want to know who imported it? cos there is no australian compliance plate on it anymore = for me or does anyone have it? its got an aussie vin on the rego papers and stuff but just not one on the car itself

pull the turbo off i dont think you have an exhaust wheel anymore if the i/c piping came off then the turbo would have no boost reference and would go nuts and shit itself probs

thanks for that mate, may have to wait a week or two so i have enough cash to get him to do everything i need but i think i'll give him a try

nice to see so many people have molested my car who owned it for the longest? and what did you do with it?

i've looked but couldn't see anything before but i will look again are you thinking of the tutorial for the attesa system?

sorry dig up an old thread but does this work on just gtr's or will it go into a gtst? just want to clarify before i order one as it seems much better than hacking the old wiring to pieces

how is he price wise? and how badly does he mark up prices of oils etc? (would it be cheaper for me to but what i want him to change?)

its good but a few rough edges need fixing up

interested in the head unit but wont have that sort of money for a few weeks $200 right now but cant offer you any more i'm in launny and i would only have to go to an atm to get it so my offer is on the table

lol bought be me like 2 weeks ago hahaha

f**k paying all that to fix up the stock suspension get a good street coilover for $1200-$1600 and that will see you with a very nice coilover and its a job you can do at home pretty much, as long as you have a jack, jack stands and tools then just go back and get a wheel alignment and tell them to get it level

well the service is going to have to be pretty extensive will be getting all the fluids changed including ps and hicas (unless i get a lock bar sorted) need a proper alignment and ride heights changing, camber adjusted etc etc Rocket_Rosco - what exactly does he do race prep wise? engine tuning, suspension, corner weighting, or just general servicing?

whats the r32 low beams? the ones with the glass orb thingo in them? are the high's H4's?

hey guys no longer need to borrow a tps but a Timing Light if you have one i can borrow for like 5 mins let me know as all i need to do is check what timing its running now Cheers Tom

thanks dude but turned out to be the cas just needed dialling in

how much for the dr drift ecu and what is it tuned for?

anyone?

no leaks first think i checked what are the timing specs for an rb20?

ok guys hope you can help sometimes just after starting the steering is really heavy and teh hicas light is on check the fluid level and its fine the the hicas light flashes on and off as it feels like and when it comes on the steering gets heavy though it would be a good idea to flush the rear lines of the hicas as i hear there are two bleed points on the hicas rack the only thing is that its apparently a captive system (no return lines to the pump) so i was thinking this ps fluid would be really dirty. is this true? and will i have to do it with the car running for fluid to come out? also if you have any idea why its going nuts please let me know Thanks Tom

hey guys think i have narrowed down a problem with my 32 if anyone has a tps i can borrow or a spare one i can try it would be a massive help if its a spare one i will give you some cashola for it too orrrrrrrrrrr where are some good wreckers near launceston???? cheers Tom

clutch is deff not slipping it spools but takes ages to rev out at highway speeds its faster to accelerate with 1/2 throttle than flat out think its tps just gotta check it

Hi guys, just got my 32 and it doesn't boost as hard as i was expecting mods are RB20DET RB25 turbo 5spd manual 1.5 way viscous lsd sunroof electric windows & mirrors FMIC w/ custom piping Apexi pod filter 3" cat back exhaust Exedy 5 puck brass button clutch JIC coilovers w/ Tein springs strut brace Bosch 040 fuel pump plus a few others whats got me scratching my head is that when it comes on boost it seems to pull stronger when i'm at 2/3 or 3/4 throttle and if i nail it it makes the noises and sounds like its going hard but doesn't really seem to pull well at all dont know if there is supposed to be a computer controlled solenoid on the 32's but there is a pressure line running from the turbo outlet to the actuator and goes to about .7bar normally but i had a bit of a hoon yesterday to see whats what and looked down to see it saying .9 also the cat is gutted and it does backfire sometimes and sometimes stalls when clutching in to come to a stop i am leaning to a problem with the tps as i've been having some idle problems and the aac is now squeeky clean can someone please confirm the precedure for setting the idle on a 32, what i really want to know is if your supposed to unplug the tps as well as the aac connectors if anyone has any ideas please put them up Thanks Tom