pipster11

haha any time saw you near seaport too but i was driving the other way looks like the car is going up for sale in a couple of months cos we're bringing down our 31 but it needs new shocks all round (but i want something a bit sportier), the diff needs shimming and all sorts guess we might be paying you another visit

hey guys been meaning to post this up for a while i have an r32 gtst spec m it has the 4 pot brakes and 18 inch wheels had it up on hoist to change the rotor and found out it had spacers all round (only about a 2 mm spacer) so we took them out and found that the front right wheel rubs on the caliper with the spacer removed (and a pretty tight clearence with the spacer in place) what could cause this to only happen on one side? and what should i be checking? also is it ok to run just one spacer one one corner or should i be running one on both fronts? all help appreciated Cheers, Tom

spotted: me giving wogboy back his 8mm socket that my engine ate and then spat out onto the chassis rail 2 weeks later his 31 is a very nice car, do want very much

take the surround off and see if you can see anything from the top? have you checked the gearbox oil level? perhaps the clutch is slipping at highspeeds :S ?

where did you get the o rings from? and how did you know the size? i cant really take them out cos i will have to drive the car to get them

whats the front look like? does it have the bug eye thing in it?

sorry to re-bump and old thread but the links are broken again can someone pm me them please? also is it worth doing this or modify the stock bracket to accept some 5x7's? i've been doing some measuring and i reckon with some spacers they'd fit (not sure about door skin clearance)

cool, i shall see what i can get together let me know if anyone else is interested are all the brackets and stuff ok? and is it the projecter type one?

well i just bled the abs ask suggested and i dont think it has made a difference at all (haven't driven it yet) but i saw no bubbles so thats good enough for me will just put up with it and maybe upgrade master cyl eventually

how much for either both headlights or just the left one please? thanks

what sort of paint would you guys recommend? cheep stuff for the core and better stuff for the end tanks? or just cheap all over? thinking the more exy stuff will be thicker and the heat wont transfer as well

where is best to go on friday? or sat? around launnie but up to 45 mins drive away

hey guys got my 32 about 2 months ago and been ironing out a few problems it had since fixing other things i have noticed that i have: an injector that has a small leak and is dripping small amounts of fuel onto the inlet runner (cant see it dripping but can see a small pool of fuel sitting under the injector and smell the fuel and after you go for a spirited drive its not a fan of a steady idle, yes i have cleaned the aac a couple of times now and i thought it was gone (had timing problems including a broken cas bracket which is now fixed). Its a strange problem as the car runs fine all the time now but after i went for a burn yesterday and i pulled over to change the timing and let it idle which started becoming more and more erratic (low revs then high revs then lower then higher) and it eventualy went so low that it stalled itself. i adjusted the timing and drove home. when i got back i let it cool for a while and it started doing the same thing. 1 thing to note that i was rumaging around and found the cold start valve was completely blocked off and unblocked it (cold start has been working perfectly ever since) 1 last thing its got an rb25 turbo on it which usually runs ~10psi but i noticed that in 3rd at ~6k rpm it was getting on for 13psi, could the thin walled silicone hose that goes from the hot pipe to the actuator cause this (expanding under pressure maybe)? many thanks if anyone can shed some light on anything as its starting to get a bit annoying Tom

if its got oil in it its supposed to go to the turbo but i recon it could be the coolant line for the turbo either way it should be connected pics of turbo setup needed

probably your o2 sensors pull it out (may need a big ish spanner cos mine was in way too tight) ppl have reported that theirs have been covered in so much soot that the sensor could not get a reading so once you have it out give it a spray with some carby cleaner (black shit will come out) and give it a shake, if it rattles then its f**ked but if nothing, chuck it back in and see how you go or for peace of mind replace it anyway if the car is driving fine but running rich as and using heaps of fuel then its the o2 sensor

yes sort of off topic but what are the recommended heights for an r32 i was suggested 350 front (from wheel center to guard) and 340 rear i have a gtst and wound up the coilovers to this and it looks rediculous now can someone recommend some suspension heights to me please? (gtst) or confirm that gtst and gtr are slightly different (different guards/ susp set up) Thanks on topic, swaybars are the way to go countless threads on how good ppl found their swaybars just do it!

how much did the pressure bleed cost you? sounds also that you could use new brake lines if the initial mooshie ness is better now and the rest it a bit crap

well took the fuel pump out after having run it pretty much dry and was quite suprised what i found it was spotless and there was cool baffles everywhere so there was not much crap on the pump either, put some fuel in it and took it to the servo runs well and not a problem moral of the story, maybe there isn't as much crap in there as you think

i was testing how out my fuel guage is the light hasn't come on yet but i'm well and truly out of fuel was strange tho cos i drove it the day b4 it ran out and no signs of it getting low (no fuel light but low guage) went to start it the next morning and it barely ran jarry can run for me now least i know where the limit is now - i hate being poor

fingers crossed that that gets rid of it then will give it a go when i get some time and report back

just having the same thing on my r32 gts-t spec m (with abs) very little bite for the top 1 or 2 cm then they are rock solid as for bleeding the abs the guy who did them for me just said that you bleed the abs first (mine has bleed points on the top of the unit but i think it may need re bleeding from the unit again) can anyone verify that the abs units from r32 gts-t's are the same or compatible with gtr's please? would like to get the bottom of this as i've just swapped the abs (leaking like a mofo) for that out of a gtr lined up and plugged in like a beauty but there is 1 number different in the part number but i had spongy pedal before and after the abs swap (and full bleed including front rotor swap)

oh and they are jic coilovers with tien springs and are pretty hard but i dont know what spring rates

want to know the distance from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch needs to have 100mm clearance as will be going to qld at the end of the year and they are strict also has full body kit which scrapes everywhere (vertex kit if it makes a difference)

hey guys i've had a look around an can only find the heights recommended for a gtr so whilst it was up on a hoist the other day we set the suspension to that (350mm front and 340 rear if i remeber right) only problem is the car is now like a boat and im not convinced that its right (its higher than a ve ss) what sort of hieght should i go for for best handling but remebering that im in tas and the roads aren't that smooth Thanks for your help Tom

hey guys looking to ditch the chromies off my skyline in favour for something a bit more suiting looking to keep the same size tho (18 inch by 8.5) The wheels i have are XHP 'Dirty Dog' They cost about $3000 when new and still go for about $2000 with crap tyres on them These have kuhmo's on the front and i forget what is on the back atm but rears have only done prob 2000kms max and are prob 95% wear tyres are 225/40/r18's Looking to swap for something 5 spoke or just plain but stylish They look something like this: