pipster11

pics of my wheels are here: http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....=419737&hl= 18x8.5 xhp dirty dogs bit to bling for my liking but still look nice

thats the one also try the tps plugs, just wiggle them i had my idle valve holding itself open causing 2000rpm idle what did you remove to get the injectors out?

up for swaps?

plugs were heat range 6 1.1mm gapped but i dropped the gap down to see if it would go away filter is a month or two old (prev one may have been put on at factory :-O!) not sure on the age of the bosch but 2 years old max gonna run some more injector cleaner through it in a high doseage and hope for the best too anyone recommend a good one?

Price Drop! Now $11,500 negotiable

thats the conclusion i have come too but i am a tiny bit suspicious about my maf might see if i can borrow another to check it out

nearly running ok running bkr6e-11 and gapped smaller (measured by eye lol, but all the same) at a guess .9 bkr is the v grove coppers (supposed to give fatter spark) car also runs jjr coilpacks too the car has an rb25 turbo on it which pushes it to about 12-14 psi (gear dependant) so i think its running into r&r playing with the timing helped (found the cas bracket was snapped in two so it was throwing timing out!) may need a tune but was gonna get a consult port adaptor off ebay to check all the sensors readings (about $50 + free software and shows every reading the ecu gets)

I'VE BEEN CHASING MY FLAT SPOT FOR AGES (R32 RB20) (opps caps on not retyping it) started with a flat spot at 4 through till about 5.5 or 6 have managed to close it down to about 4 to just under 5 but its still there does it sound like the car is going great and the turbo is spooled but you just go no where? check things like ground points everything is tight (my rocker covers were loose and causing random idleing and it was quite noisy (no leaks tho) inlet mani was loose air filter was dirty old plugs etc etc message is, check everything!!! and if you find the answar please tell me asap please!!!

yup no worries had a guy of the tassie section help me do it when i upgraded to slotted fronts (and fluid was in a bad way and the abs was leaking too so that got changed) we did it the same but with the abs first and no order of pref on the order of lines for the abs unit will bleed again (just abs first) and see how i go Merli, im not sure what happend cos its been a while but will try on a quiet road tonight and let you know thanks for the help guys

yeah i know what abs feels like and kinda re bled the abs unit but i didn't have any hose and was just doing it with a rag and only a couple of pumps cos it was making a mess couldnt see any bubbles coming out tho but will attempt it again when i find some tubeing does anyone have a definitive procedure to bleed the mofo? car on? car off? battery disconnected? either one first? would love to get rid of the squishyness

sorry used to boost where you get a half inteligent reply after a day at least not to be smart but check all my topics there are about 8 that have had no replies i put up plenty of info and yet i get no replies just saying its pretty annoying

ok must be in my head then also brakes only lock up when there is to much pressure in 1 point instead of a distributed load that causes the pad to grip (this is what i read) good brakes should be able to pull up much harder without locking just got a cm or two of slack b4 the pedal goes hard but it is apparently normal with the abs

no one can help? quickly loosing interest in sau not a great deal of knowledgeable ppl it would seem

bump

yeah, may do when i get time doesn't bother me too much got play in the steering now not noticeable in carparks but very there on the highway wound the suspension up and changed the rack boots (unwound the tierod ends) could it just need more grease? or is there a chance i f**ked the rack when it came off somehow?

hey guys had a leaking abs unit in my 32 and swapped it out for one from a gtr lines all matched up nicely and everything but i'm not 100% convinced that its working when i turn it on it sounds like its priming itself (never did this before) and i think i am able to still lock the brakes up (hard to lock them with good pads and 18 inch chromies) So, does anyone know if the are compatible or if i have to change anything to get it to work propperly? (or have the propper bleed procedure for it?) Thanks Tom

lol long reply they are not bad tho and you could still get some wide tyres on there if you wanted (only .5 of an inch smaller than most wide wheels)

thats just a pic from google both wheels fill the guards propperly but i guess it could be a machining error the far side is pretty dam close to the calliper too

i would like to know too but for the refitting reasons my a/c stuff is sitting under my bed lol

hey i have an r32 with rb20det in it its got about 140,00kms on it the problem is there is a big flat spot between 4000 and 5000 rpm its a real pain cos its right in the useful part of the revs the car has jjr coilpacks bkr6e-11 plugs gapped down (not sure by how much tho) rb25 turbo front mount cat back zorst apexi pod bosh 040 and a turbosmart bov it has a full service (inc new plugs) and changed nothing chenged ecu and it got a bit worse the flat spot was originally 4000+ but after finding the cas bracket snapped in 2 i fixed it and i regained power form 5500+ i then cleaned the coilpack connections and it got a tiny bit better i advanced the timing a tiny bit and i now have power from 5000+ but still nothing in between car is running 12-14 psi (no boost controller and get some boost creep in 3rd or 4th or 5th up to .9 bar) when it hits the flat spot its fully spooled and sounds ready to go i've searched the net and may look at the knock sensors next If you have an idea of something to check post it up and i will try it Thanks Tom

had a friend working as an aprentice mech (few years back now) and they had a heap of soccer mums coming in with their v10 diesel vw toureg thingos which they had put diesel in they just dropped the tanks and refill with diesel (prob bleed the fuel lines too) im pretty sure that was all worth giving it a go

you could also check your ground wire mate had the same thing cos he grounded it poorly i had the same too now i think of it

Hi guys Going up for sale is my recently acquired R32 The reason im selling it so soon after buying it is that it just isn't practical for me while i am at uni The car has the folowing RB20DET RB25 turbo 5spd manual 1.5 way viscous lsd sunroof electric windows & mirrors FMIC w/ custom piping (very neatly fitted) Apexi pod filter 3" cat back exhaust Exedy 5 puck brass button clutch (not currently installed) JIC coilovers w/ Tein springs Strut brace Bosch 040 fuel pump 18" XHP Dirty dog wheels Turbosmart Megasonic BOV Blitz dttx turbo timer (w/digi boost guage) Full Vertex Bodykit Viper alarm system Momo steering wheel Full respray in dupont 2pack, chrysler prowler purple effect Stuff replaced recently: New battery 2 months ago Replaced ABS unit 1 month ago Recently Serviced with Nulon Full Synthetic 10w40 Oil filter New slotted front rotors 1 month ago (still have old ones too) Full brake fluid flush when rotors were fitted Clutch fluid bleed Spark Plugs Changed at the same time (only driven 500kms on them) New steering boot racks Full under body inspection - everything nice and tight The car is located in Launceston and i am pretty fexible as to when i can meet up Price is $12,000 firm - i still enjoy driving it and wont be desperately dropping the price because i am not desperate No swaps unless its part payment with things to suit an R31 Sedan but only up to maybe $2000 worth of value My mobile number is 0422 988 328 - contact in reasonable hours please Pics for now: Enjoy

coolant temp sensor will keep the car running in the cold map = rich and will also from revving out too much (on my 32 gtst it limits revs to about 4-5k prm when not fully warm) i am also experiencing similar problems with it but been too slack to change the sensor (dam uni work ) so i would give that a go, the tend not to like working after ~15 years of abuse lol

late reply lol didn't try changing the wheels over (should have duh!!!) but it was rubbing on part of the calliper that its closest to the hub here we even tried filing it down a bit but nothing but a ~2-3 mm spacer and it was fine the wheel would rotate but you could hear it rubbing but only in a few spots as it was turned could the calliper bracket be bent?