djr81

I have no idea what you are trying to say. Something about gravity, right? Braking friction & engine friction (or pumping losses if you like) both act to remove energy from the car & hence slow it down. The kinetic energy of the flywheel constitutes part of the energy needing removal. The less kinetic energy a car has (for a given speed) the easier it is to slow down. A lighter flywheel stores less kinetic energy.... If you are changing gears (either up or down) you are simply trading some linear kinetic energy (ie of the car going forward) for some rotational kinetic energy (ie the flywheel going around). All of the energy (whether linear or rotational) needs to be gotten rid of to slow the car (assuming it is in gear). The advantage of the lightened flywheel is less energy is needed to spin up what is ultimately a useless piece of junk and can instead go into making the car go quicker in a straight line. Anyway the heirachy of dealing with weight goes in the following order. 1. Reduce unsprung weight. 2. Reduce the inertia of any rotating components. 3. Reduce static weight. 4. Relocate weight, ie lower, away from the more heavilly loaded axle and closer to the middle of the car. Basically item 1 is the most important & then in descending order items 2, 3 & 4. At the end of the day, though, you do what you can.

This sort of thing you mean?

This may sound massively pedantic, but what you have said is not 100% correct. Basically a heavier flywheel needs more energy to increase its rpm relative to a lighter unit. So when you change down a gear it will INITIALLY give you more engine braking. However after that point it will give you less engine braking because its greater stored energy (kinetic energy - again relative to a lighter unit) needs to be soaked up by engine friction & braking etc. So basically a heavier flywheel will absorb more energy to get it up to speed, but then give it back when you try and brake. As an aside that means when you don't change down gears a lightened flywheel will increase your braking performance.

Sounds odd about cracking about the bleed nipples. Unless they are tapered & over tightened you wouldn't imagine that would be a particularly stressed area. I think you are right with the mounts. Must have been the generic photo I was looking at. Either that or they are actually radial mounted & just missing some studs. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/caliper_R4-2.htm

Radial mount is easier as the bolts holding the mount to the hub are at right angles to those holding the calliper to the mount. At the end of the day if you can make it work there isn't much of a difference. And yeah. I got fk all info out of anyone regarding the 345x32 rotors too.

Depending on which of the project mu rotors you get you can characterise the scr - pro series as incomplete vein, for example. See link & click on the view all pictures tag. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Project-Mu...FD3S-SE3P-13730 On the upside they do appear to be crack resistant & light. So I guess you don't get everything. Edit: answered my own question which is the piston diameters in the 4 pot project mus are 41mm dia. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/Project-Mu-Rac...et-Nissan-51745 Also given that Project Mu don't use a radial mount for their callipers & their piston sizes are basically indistinguishable from the Sumitomo calliper & the silly 4 pad arrangement I can't think of a compelling reason to shell out for them. Other than they look pretty.

I felt a bit dirty wangering around Dutton taking photos of peoples brakes, but hey we all have our em, foibles.

Looks tasty. Couple things: 1. How can I get a part number for that rotor, ie 345x32 scr pro for a GTR? 2. What piston area do the 4 pot callipers have?

There was a Sllver R33 GTR running in the WA round of the Dutton with 6 pot Project Mu fronts. Can't remember the car number - maybe one of the competitors will know. Check the Dutton website for entry list maybe.

I think the fundamental problem is that the manufacturer "co contribution" for want of a better word forms a not insubstantial part of the teams budgets. The amount of money the car companies have to tip in explains why they all moved to team ownership as distinct from just supplying engines like in the olden days. Hence no Team Lotus Ford (They went with Stewart then Jaguar), no Williams BMW, no Benetton Renault, no BAR Honda etc etc. Lack of manufacturer support makes it much harder to find sponsorship. Look at the number of privateers that have gone away in the last few years. It has always been a bit that way but maybe the proof is that there are no new teams on the horizon.

I think more to the point is that the teams as a whole agreed to end tobacco sponsorship as of either last year or the year before. All the other teams, ie McLaren, Williams, Honda, Renault with tobacco sponsorship progressively gave it up. The only team to reneg on the deal was everyones favorite folk at Ferrari. The point is not whether or not the car looks ugly the point is why did they reneg on a deal & accept money from such a murderous product? Oh and a winning car is a good looking car but I still can't get used to the dumbo ears.

This one isn't the greatest photo (camera problems) but shows how to kerb hop for fun & profit.

Catch of the day for Friday just gone. Dutton rally at Collie this year.

I replaced the outers with some bushes dimensionally similar but made out of nylon. They are a couple year sold now & are still fine.

Bloody oath. Don't be a girls blouse. Don't just clip the apex kerbing with your unloaded inside tyres. Do it like a real man & stuff all four wheels over the kerbing and take as much grass as you can with you. The cornering sequence is simple. Brake (if you must). Turn in. Nail that kerb. Get some air. Get some grass. Get some serious chassis/tarmac spark interaction when you rejoin.

Not sure if the last couple of posts related to the first photo in the thread but if it did & for info the bushes in question were not by any means old. There is a thread on it somewhere which you can find with a search of the Whiteline part number for an R32 GtR front camber kit. The photo is a few years old & may no longer reflect the product from Whiteline.

Best I can offer is this: The part number for a project mu rotor for an R33 front is SCRN006. It has a height of 53.8mm For an Evo the part number is SCRM045 with a height of 44.2mm So the Evo calliper appears to sit a little further out than the Nissan equivalent. Which may cause a problem.

Sorry Roy, I wasn't having a go at you. It is just that it appears that everytime LH does anything at all someone will kick the crap out of him for it. Half the time it isn't even him doing it. I think that if HK was leading then Hamilton would have had to take the place from him, not be gifted it. HK is only on about 24 points - half that of the leaders. He is why McLaren are only third in the constructors. Personally I hate (fkn haterz) all the tippy toeing about driver orders. They have always been a part of F1. To pretend otherwise is just insulting everyones intelligence. The fastest laps are on the F1 website. Looks like Kimi has that shot to bits. Australian Heikki Kovalainen McLaren-Mercedes 1:27.418 Malaysian Nick Heidfeld BMW Sauber 1:35.366 Bahrain Heikki Kovalainen McLaren-Mercedes 1:33.193 Spanish Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:21.670 The land of goat sphincter rings Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:26.506 Monaco Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:16.689 Canadian Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:17.387 French Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:16.630 British Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:32.150 German Nick Heidfeld BMW Sauber 1:15.987

It is a bit of an odd argument. If kovi hadn't have moved over then McLaren would not have won the race. So apart from the haters I don't know why anyone has an issue with it?

I don't have a photo - it is not that interesting. The instruction I used were the ones in the kit from Tomei. I just got the colours translated from Kanji to Engrish & the wiring was done accordingly. If you want to check your install I would check two things. 1. Use google to make sure the wire colours are correct ie the Japanese lines up with the Engrish which in turn lines up with the bit of kit. 2. Make sure you weren't looking at the plug connector upside down or whatever.

Um I put a Tomei kit into my R32 and had no problems at all.

One drive doesn't make a career, but he has now had three good GPs on the trot. Renault stuffed his qualifying up for him by sending him out in traffic. That put him back in the field & made him run long. Not sure where he would have finished without the safety car but he had the pace to keep Massa at bay & he drove well. Good on him I say & I hope he derives some more confidence from the result.

If you only want 300rwhp then you don't need to change the turbos. The stockers will run safely at this power level. For a time the 2860 was known as then 2560. The core was even tagged as such. Mine are. So your mechanic is probably referring to the exact same turbo - or he should be. Check the Garrett site but the item is, irrefutably a GT2860 707160-7. Make sure what your mechanic is talking about has the correct flanges etc as some of the old Garrett options did not bolt up directly. The are a number of different sizes/types of 2860. So yeah one or other of them probably suits an SR. Check the other threads you will find the GT28-60 707160-7 does not have lag issues.

It was nice to see the after race press conference with the three drivers being, well, nice to each other. Massa particularly was eloquent on a day that would not have made him happy. Lewis said some complimentary things about Nelsen too. Good work all. Oh and you lot the NPKJR bandwagon is leaving town. So get on it while you still can. NPKJR P2, Alonso spun on his way to finishing P124. How long till Fernando feels the need to start playing silly games? He will need to make sure he uses NPKJR's set up info in the next race aswell....

If you are not going to push the motor too hard then the smaller of the Garretts (GT2860 707160-7) or the HKS GTSS are a very good turbo. Equally some people are happy with the HKS 25-30 or the Garret GT 2860 707160-5 which is basically a size up. Personally with the prices of turbos these days I would much bother with old N1's or similar. If you search the site you will find out what mods (eg AFM's, ECU, injectors, pumps etc) are needed to go with a given amount of rwhp.