djr81

There are just behind the gear lever, under the centre console.

Grab the top of the back seat upright & pull it forward. Then stuff your fingers in the gap between the seat & the shelf & starting from one end pull it up. Once done pull it forward & be carefull not to bust all the clips along the trailing edge.

Chasing a couple of these for my car. Please note I already have some fibreglass copies but want some that fit properly. Regards djr81

Because I can't for a minute understand how any of the F1 drivers can stand the huge amount of inane PR commitments they are expected to deal with. Nor for that matter the bullsh!t questions (same ones mostly) they get asked time & again. So I therefore respect someones entirely reasonable attitude that it is all bullsh!t & they don't want any part of it. KR's driving got him where he is. Not his ability to charm journalists & small animals. I would hope I had the presence of mind not to stand on other peoples stuff. I take the view that as a fan probably the best thing I can do is leave the said person the fk alone. With the exception of one PB signed poster I have always stuck to that. As for FW, yes I agree. But we were speaking of drivers, not constructors or engineers.

It is very rare that an elite athlete of any sort, of any era, will be a well rounded individual. If you expect that then your list of people who meet the standard will be a very short one indeed. A couple of cricketers spring to mind, a very few GP drivers and even at that those I am thinking of are of previous generations. Perhaps it is because there lives were shaped by more than driving race cars. People like Bruce McLaren who suffered from a dibilitating illness in his youth. Niki Lauda who showed no end of courage to return to his Ferrari with barely healed burns... To quote the much lamented Keith Miller: "Pressure, I’ll tell you what pressure is. Pressure is a Messerschmidt up your arse, playing cricket is not." KR is rubbish at PR & looking after the fans. That actually makes me like him all the more.

Very few drivers have ever made a meaningfull, long term contribution to the sport outside of the cockpit. Jackie Stewart is one who comes to mind. Then there is, um, err, well..... Some have an involvement with circuit safety (eg Mark Webber) but it is hardly the core of their activities. Nor should it be. I suspect that most people professing to dislike drivers & posting in this thread (me included) first take a set against a driver which then colours their interpretation of all their subsequent activities. So Kimi is hardly ebullient at press conferences. So what. So Hamilton is close to his old man. Good luck to him. Atleast they are in some small way individuals and not motor racing clones of the type you see so often. Bottom line is almost all of the F1 drivers are self absorbed, selfish, have massive egos and a massively competitive in everything. They just don't get to be F1 drivers without all of those character traits. Or shortcomings.

Actually, to me, it looks overly tight with only one potential overtaking place. Loads of mickey mouse stuff & only one even remotely high speed corner in sight. To be a good circuit it needs a couple things - namely elevation change combined with high speed turns. On the upside it looks to have flexible layouts. Does anyone see the resemblance of the National Track to AIR? They have packed alot of tarmac into a small space - maybe too much? Hopefully there will be something in it for the paying spectator, not just the bloody corporates. So please keep this sort of thing away from Wanneroo.

I would just like to say that thanks to the tards at Western Power whatever happened in the race on Sunday is a complete mystery to me. Fkn tards. How did NPKJR go?

As teh Baron says running the soft compound on a GT-R in RE55's is not a good idea for circuit work. In fact I would go as far as saying you are probably better with a Toyo if you want a soft kharna tyre. I ran some 255 SR2 compounds on my R32 Gt-R on the weekend (cold, cold day at Wanneroo) & whilst they needed 1.5 laps to get warm they were fine. Unless you have alot of coin running softer than SR2 is a big call. As for road use there is another thread of someone asking the same question. The answer was overwhelmingly don't. This is because it will variously be: 1. Expensive. 2. Noisy. 3. Tram line (y) 4. Ride badly. 5. Pick up roacks/stones from the road & fire it at your paintwork.

The KBNR sequence identifies it as an N1 version. So it is NOT a common or garden variety R32 GT-R.

Some slightly less rubbish times for me & one half decent one. SAU Nickname: Djr81 Car Make and Model: R32 GTR Circuit Name: Various, see below Modifications Engine: Front Mount / Exhaust Power: approx 320kw Suspension: SK Bilsteins, mixed bag of other bits. Tyres: RE55 semi-slicks Brakes: standard diameter discs / calipers Ferodo DS2500s Body weight: Standard Wanneroo long circuit, p5, lap time: 1.05.3606 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....08/2008.BARB.Q1 Wanneroo short circuit, p14, lap time: 56.8290 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....02/2008.BARB.Q1 Collie, p7, lap time: 51.4900 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....03/2008.COLI.Q1

You are kidding aren't you? What parts do you need to be able to spend $10k on? An Rb26 doesn't need to be built to produce 1000hp or rev to 10,000rpm. Set some reasonable expectations & with a reasonable budget you can get a good result by rebuilding your motor. Certainly a better result than spending money on a tired 2nd hand motor anyway.

There is already a cooler for the PS system in the GT-R's. It is infront of the radiator, but behind the I/C on the drivers side of the bonnet latch. It is simplty a small diameter pipe with external fins. Simply remove it & replace it with a proper sized cooler. A small 100mm by 250 ish size is more than adequate. That is what I did & it stopped the P/S fluid from getting hot, expanding & then leaking out of the top of the reservoir. And yes hoses & clamps work fine.

Gee, great piece of journalism. Ferrari were named earlier in the year as being one team exploiting the reliability loophole to make more horsepower. Anyway exploiting loopholes is standard engineering practice in F1. Renault would do the same except they sacked most of their engine division....

Privacy laws. He is a car salesman & is doing his job by getting you to come to the yard & talk to him about buying the car. If you want to buy it you have to do so anyway. So just go & see & write the number down.

Well said. Without mentioning any names I wouldn't place any store in the hope that any number of muppets won't put their short term gain ahead of the long term interest of people who genuinely have a use for race/rally imports.

The hatted rotors Project Mu make as a replacement for the standard rotors fit up the same as the standard rotors. With regard to the aftermarket ones - well you need to ask but as yet no one has found anyone willing to divulge that information. As for your second question - good question. I would like to know too.

They were specced differently. Don't surmise, get the build number & the KBNR number. Then you will know.

Ring the bloke up & get the KBNR32 etc number sequence. Go from there. A late N1 should have Brembos. No idea about the other stuff coming ex factory, but I doubt it.

Well if it is what he says it is I would reckon it is well worth the trip to look at it. What year & how many kms are being claimed? As for the pod thing, don't worry about it. The early model Nismo cars had them, the late N1s sometimes did, sometimes didn't as near as I can make out.

I doubt it is an easly model Group A homologation Nismo version simply because it is white (they were all grey) and also it has the late series console etc. It may (may) be a late N1, however. Broadly the plates for the various models read : Poverty pack KBNR32RXFSLM2G V spec KBNR32RBFS AA V spec 11 KBNR32RBFS8AA Nismo KBNR32RXFSL RA BNR32-100198 for the build number. The 100 starts the sequence, the remainder of the numbering being from one to 560. N1 KBNR32RBFS ZN

It has one of the hallmarks of a Nismo version - the rear window with no wiper and some of the other more generic stuff. But the only way to be sure is to check the build number. It is the KBNR32RBFS ZN which is the number sequence for the N1's. How much do they want for it?

I have no idea what you are trying to say. Something about gravity, right? Braking friction & engine friction (or pumping losses if you like) both act to remove energy from the car & hence slow it down. The kinetic energy of the flywheel constitutes part of the energy needing removal. The less kinetic energy a car has (for a given speed) the easier it is to slow down. A lighter flywheel stores less kinetic energy.... If you are changing gears (either up or down) you are simply trading some linear kinetic energy (ie of the car going forward) for some rotational kinetic energy (ie the flywheel going around). All of the energy (whether linear or rotational) needs to be gotten rid of to slow the car (assuming it is in gear). The advantage of the lightened flywheel is less energy is needed to spin up what is ultimately a useless piece of junk and can instead go into making the car go quicker in a straight line. Anyway the heirachy of dealing with weight goes in the following order. 1. Reduce unsprung weight. 2. Reduce the inertia of any rotating components. 3. Reduce static weight. 4. Relocate weight, ie lower, away from the more heavilly loaded axle and closer to the middle of the car. Basically item 1 is the most important & then in descending order items 2, 3 & 4. At the end of the day, though, you do what you can.

This sort of thing you mean?

This may sound massively pedantic, but what you have said is not 100% correct. Basically a heavier flywheel needs more energy to increase its rpm relative to a lighter unit. So when you change down a gear it will INITIALLY give you more engine braking. However after that point it will give you less engine braking because its greater stored energy (kinetic energy - again relative to a lighter unit) needs to be soaked up by engine friction & braking etc. So basically a heavier flywheel will absorb more energy to get it up to speed, but then give it back when you try and brake. As an aside that means when you don't change down gears a lightened flywheel will increase your braking performance.