djr81

Please be aware that, as far as GT-R's are concerned importing them under the 15 year rule is basically no longer an option. There may be a few left, but these are probably not really worth worrying about. RAWS/SEVS compliance is becoming more common, but is expensive & really for those who want a late model, mint GT-R that is near stock. On the other hand there are a reason number for sale locally. When you go to look at the car ask the seller to provide you with the information he had when buying it ex Japan. This will help sort out which have had a respray & been tarted up for sale. Good luck with the search & if you are unsure there a a number of people who can/will help out.

I guess you mean R32's. They came from the factory in black, but can get scratched up etc. A lot of people didn't like them in black & hence painted them. Also some got painted when the rest of the car got painted, so yeah, a bit of both.

Things to look for (The short list!) Body: Usual signs of panel damage/rust etc. Signs of a respray eg front spoiler painted/overspray on seals etc. All badges in tact (They tend not to get replaced) Underside damage to chassis rails. Rust in the sills. The Nismo body kit if fitted & original will probably be warped - this is common especially the rear lip spoiler. General scrapes/dings/scratches. Motor: Signs of heat stress. Amount of boost it is running. Timing belt been changed? Any service history (For an OZ car - you wont get one from Japan) Gearbox 3rd & 4th gear synchros get tired so check these. Clutch. Stock or aftermarket clutch - condition. Suspension. The suspension bushes fail - so listen out for clunking noises. Look for leaking silicone fluid from the subframe bushes. Interior. Check for original steering wheel & gear nob. These are high wear items & a good indicator of the mileage of the car. If they have been replaced and the kms read 50,000 then ask why. Seat bolster wear on drivers side. Extras If the modifications are sensible & done well then this is usually a good sign. There are very, very few stock GT-R's about. However there are also any number with bizarre mods which probably tells you something about the owners state of mind.... If it has a half roll cage, dodgy pod filters, an attack meter, boost controller then it may have been at the track. I worry less about this if it has been done (properly) in OZ because you can talk to the person involved & get an idea what it has been doing. Sometimes this is all good as the upgrades can be really nice to have. Other than that many cars will show signs of window seals failing, stuffed/replaced rear speakers, worn brake rotors, broken air vents, roof lining (At the side/rear) looking sad etc. This is pretty common & doesn't really mean much. Just factor it into the price. That is the short list, doubtless the are more things to think about. The rear turbo doesn't suffer unduly - certainly no worse than the front. What will kill ceramic turbos on GT-R's is too much shaft speed. This means the boost needs to be less than about 1 bar - any more & the things will probably go bang in a pretty short order.

Well, like the posts say you have too much -ve camber at the back (An unwanted side effect from lowering the suspension, but easilly fixable) & also too much toe in (Again at the back) Most shops use a +ve number to indicate toe in, atleast over here - maybe the convention is different elsewhere? A question - when you bought the new springs, did you buy the shocks (new?) as well. If so they should be matched to each other. A dead shocker (or two) will have the affect of not letting the springs return to their correct position (ie as they are when the car is not moving). If it is at the back end it will feel like that end of the car is moving up & down a lot & that the front, by comparision is relatively still. Essentially you will encounter a disharmony with the front not agreeing with the back. A second possible option is that the bump stops on the shock absorbers are too long. This happened to me when I bought some Bilsteins & the shop didn't read the instructionss properly. An overly long bump rubber (stop) changes the spring rate when the suspension is at the end of it's compression travel & the shockers don't have a hope of properly controlling things. Anyway, the point is that you need to diagnose the shock absorber issue (If it is real) first, before fiddling with the wheel alignment as the latter will not fix the former.

Not all mods have to be performance mods. My car has uprated suspension, an oil cooler, alloys & some other bits & pieces, but the engine is still stock other than for an exhaust. If you think about it, the last of the few GT-R's that Prestige & others are offering under the 15 year rule are the last of them for a reason.... GT-R's were built in standard (ie non V-spec) form from 89 to 94, I have a June 94 R32 GT-R & it is not a V-Spec. You can get a GT-R for $20k, but for such a complicated & (when new) expensive car - why buy from the bottom of the barrel? The difference between a GT-R for $20k & one for $24k is marked and to my mind a false economy.

Maybe the point is not to get hung up on the purchase price - but worry about the condition of the car & matching that to your requirements. At the end of the day you should be buying the car on condition rather than on what the odometer says. Saving a couple of thousand is all well & good, but not if you have to spend more than that on fixing the thing up. Also, understand that - believe it or not - not every R32 was manufactured in 89 If you want a younger (up to 94) example these can be found. BUY A GOOD ONE NOT A CHEAP ONE.

The 4000 series is a direct replacement - so yeah, it's a straight swap. Have a look at the dba cattledog for part numbers & the sponsors list for pricing.

No it shouldn't be happening. The pad should clear as in the photo below. Best get it sorted before there is another Hoddle Street massacre...

Um, the R32 doesn't come standard with a turbo timer...

Thanks Ken.

Can anyone tell me who in Perth supplies the Ferodo DS2500/2000 series pads at a reasonable price. They are for an R32 Gt-R. Thanks.

Before you rush off & start replacing anything do a search for oil pressure - there are about a bazillion posts on the subject. A couple of things: The oil pressure will always be higher on a cold engine thatn on a warm one because the oil has a higher viscosity when cold. The oil pressure sender unit on the Nissans is known to be rubbish. It will send erratic pressure readings to the gauge. Hence before you get anything removed check the pressure sender unit either by substituting it with a known good one or by getting a mechanical gauge put on the car by your mechanic as a test. The overwhelming probability is that the send unit is stuffed & the engine is fine. It will cost maybe a couple of hundred dollars if you want to replace the sender unit, but most people don't even bother doing so.

Andrew Miedecke? (Sorry about the spelling) David (Skippy) Parsons?

Um, which bit of the exhaust is titanium? Certainly not the bent sections as all titanium elbows are lobster backs.

Kyle, at that mileage it is probably getting close to the end of its life, although there is no way to be completely sure unless you get a compression/leak down test done. A worthwhile exercise if you are going to bolt on some go fast gear.

Yes they will - after all that is their job. I fitted up some Whitleine adjustable bars. They make the car turn in sharper on the road, but are best teamed with new springs & shocks for the track. It is a good way to spend $600.

Can anyone confirm the weight of the stock RB26 con rods & pistons? Cheers.

Attessa doesn't remove wheel spin. To a degree it can only react to the inputs you are putting in. To be honest unless you are running drag radials of some description 7500 is too many revs. I used 6000 to launch at the last hillclimb which was plenty - and that with more weight on the rear wheels & with R compounds tyres on a stinking hot day.

Hmmm, a few point spring to mind: 1. The crank angle sensor is driven off the exhaust cam, not the intake cam. 2. AFAIK there is no difference between an R32 cam for a stock GT-R & and a V-Spec. 3. For the price of a cam & the amount of mucking around you SHOULD be doing in re shimming them - why install a busted camshaft?

Broadly (ie the abridged explanation so please don't flame me for not including everything or for being a little generalised). Roll centre - this is the geometric point about which the car rolls. It is dependent on the suspension geometry eg with wishbones the angle of inclination of both suspension members goes a long way to determining where the roll centre is located & also how it migrates (ie moves) when the car rolls. Note that the front & rear roll centres are commonly at different heights which in turn allows the balance of the car to be modified to give more or less understeer/oversteer. Roll couple - the couple (ie torque) produced by the product of the mass of the car acting through the centre of gravity multiplied by the distance between the centre of gravity and the roll centre. The roll couple is the quantified torque that makes the car roll or lean through a corner. Bump steer - when a suspension is compressed (or unloaded, bumps go down too!) the toe of the wheel changes. The outcome of this is known as bump steer. Most manufacturers use toe in for their front suspension because it makes the car more stable when one wheel hits a bump.

schedule H of the CAMS competitors guide says that the extinguisher must: (i) comply with Australian Standard 1841 (This means dry powder) (ii) Must be of at least 900g capacity (ie 2lb). (iii) Must be inspected every six months (& tagged) & serviced every three years (ie recharged) When you buy one there are two things to look for: It has a metal bracket - try not to get one with a plastic bracket as the scrutineers don;t tend to like them. It will have a build date stamped on the body near the hadle - get the newest one possible. To answer your other question - I got mine from Repco.

Yes people do - the same people who are incapable of following instructions & setting the things up properly. By the way the new SS & RR model G-Techs are a world away (ie far better) than the old ones. I would recommend to anyone who is interested in improving either their quarter mile or circuit lap times that they get themselves one of these things.

Have a look at www.circlework.com.au for some pictures of the day.

No they are not. Not even close.

So what maintenance have you done on the turbos, on the front diff on the transfer case? I have had my Gt-R for almost three years now. Haven't had to touch any of them. Cost per km figure for a GT-R would be about 50% greater than that for a Commode/Foulcan - in fuel, tyres, brakes etc etc. That is about how my R32 works out relative to my AU Foulcan. You just need to cost it in before deciding.