djr81

A ban on all rotaries...

Well I am saying that the coating applied in this case didn't work. I think you are getting a little bit confused between the temperature gradient on the photo and the percieved difference in a like for like test with a coated and an uncoated dump pipe. What the (Linear) gradient demonstates is that the same amount of heat is being lost per unit length of pipe in both the coated and uncoated sections. That being so the only conclusion is that the ceramic coating is having no effect on the heat loss from the pipe ie it is not working as an effective insulator. You don't actually need a before and after test to prove the point....

At the risk of starting WW3.... The 'guy" in question is a mate of mine, a bloke that I happened to sit next to for four years whilst studying mechanical engineering at uni. I say this only to pre-empt any claims that the photo is some random down load from the net. The photo shows the dump pipe on a turbo charged 12A rotary. The photo is of the surface of the pipe. The discontinuity is the flange on the exhaust. The section downstream of the flange is uncoated. The comment attached to the photo is correct, ie the coating, if working, should substantially lower the surface temperature of the pipe on the sections that have been coated. Clearly it hasn't and it follows that the coating is not having any measureable effect.

The point I was making was that when you buy a GT28-60 707160-5 and when you actually receive the turbo from Garrett the tag on the turbo is stamped with 25-60. That is what the photos show - both mine & Ronin 09's.

There is another way. You can take an infra red photgraph of the exhaust manifold section that has been coated. If (& only if) the coating works you will see a significantly lower temperature on the exhaust manifold section that is coated. If it doesn't work you won;t see any real difference between the coated & uncoated sections. Do a search - you should find it.

The finned diff/non finned diff does not relate to whether an R32 is a v-spec or not. It simply relates to how late a model year it is. The later ones don't have fins...

Garrett stamp them as 25-60's & use 28-60 as the reference in their literature. They are the same turbo. If you need turbos for track work the motors torque curve above 4000rpm is the only section of any real interest as revs shouldn't drop below this on the track. See mark up of the attached dyno chart. Note that I am not sure of the middle torque curve (ie don;t know what car it is off), but the other two are my car (Stock R32R at 13#) & Pete's (28-60's + bling). Someone with a GT-SS curve may want to further mark the thing up by way of comparison......

33GT-R rims on a gun metal car look good. R32 GT-R rims on anything look good. TE37's in just about any colour look tough. BBS LM are good.

Seriously bloke, you need to have bit of a think about what you are saying. Have you ever been to Hyperdrive, or seen their dyno? Do you even know what type it is? Or do you just assume that it is all broken and wrong because it doesn't match your preconceived notions. Do a search and you may even find the Pete's dyno chart. You may (If you know what you are looking at) be pleasantly surprised by the linearity of the power curve. As for 25-30's well, old school tech is just that - old school. Turbo charger sizing is not the be all and end all in determining their response.

Start with some proper pads & fresh brake fluid (Dot 4-600). The discs aren't the problem unless they are under thickness, warped or grooved. Ducting is a good idea. So is one of those Cusco brake stoppers as the R32 firewall flexes an unnerving amount under load. Depending on how hard you mash the brakes, the braided brake lines aren't a necessity. They may make the pedal feel harder, but don't help you stop better to any real degree unless you are boiling the brake fluid which you shouldn't be.

An R32 is a proper Group A homologation special. An R34 GT-T is, by comparison, a hairdressers car. That is my opinion, but having owned 3 R32 GT-R's you could say I am a little biased.

Well first things first: Have you had a chance to get the car wheel aligned? One of the side effects of getting a HICAS lock kit installed is that is puts the rear toe in out to the shithouse. Too much rear toe will cause you large amounts of rear wheel tramlining. So check that first. Will cost you <$100 and is worth doing on a newly acquired GT-R in any case. Secondly have a look under the back for dead subframe bushes.

Get the right viscosity oil & you should be fine. Chances are what you have in the box is the wrong stuff....

The best advice you will get relating to an R32 GT-R is this: Buy a good one, not a cheap one. The difference between the cheap one & the good ones is only a few thousand dollars. This will disapper quite quickly is you need to replace major componentry. To use but one example a new set of brake pads & rotors will cost you about $1500 fitted. You get alot of extra bling on a second hand R32 for $1500...

What, you didn't like the old 7 line up, you would regularly get: Bruce MacEvaney calling everything/everyone "special" and salivating over the likes of one P Brock. I used to fear for Brockie's leg when Bruce was doing an interview. Doug Mulray attempting to be funny. Sandy Roberts (No comment) Richard Hey - the so called pommie expert. Mike Raymond & his satanic spawn Andy.... The only decent, knowledgable commentators were Mark Oastler (now doing his Australian Muscle Car thing) & Neil Crompton when he wasn't driving. Channel 7 used to do interviews with the likes of Ernie Dingo during the Bathurst telecast for farks sake. Atleast the recent team know a bit about the racing and don't try and use the telecast solely as a vehicle to promote the station. Anyway you lot. You are all soft. To anyone who lives outside a metropolitan area motorsport coverage on Saturday is a complete non event. Most of what is telecast is transmitted on Sunday night after 10.30. It is common for the F1 to start at 10.30 & the V8's to follow from about 1.00am going through to 5.00am. When WIN are broadcasting that Big Brother shite it doesn't start to 11.30 or later. We never saw any 2L super tourers, Indycar/CART/IRL racing, don't get rpm & half the time the footy clashes with the channel ten sports tonight program & you don't even get the results from Saturday until you look them up on the web. If you live in WA you will never have even seen the overwhelming majority of the "national" series, simply because they never get over this way. And don't start me on the WA government & what they did to Rally Australia. The reality is that channel 7 have paid that much for the footy nothing will supplant it, least of all motor racing.

The Japanese actually really, really like white cars. Bizarre, but true. So having been resprayed in white probably makes it the least questionable (& most common). Just make sure, like everything, that it has been done well & is in good condition.

Unfortunately I am old enough to remember the channel 7 motor sport coverage. In their last few years the following "features" were intermittenly included: Races that lasted not for a set distance but for 50 minutes so that channel 7 could package it into a 1 hour broadcast on a Sunday arvo so not to upset the footy telecast. You got one race per round by the way (late eighties, from memory) As Dick Johnson said:"It (the Sierra) was the only race car I ever had with a clock on the dashboard" In their last year you got three 20 minute races per round. I remember going to Wanneroo to watch a round in the early nineties. Main feature (2x20 minute races on the Sunday) was over by lunchtime... Mike Raymonds brilliant commentary: eg standin in it, oooohhhh he's got it sideways, endless ban puns. I would go on, but the memories are too painful. No replays for anything not broadcast, ie if it wasn't shown at the time they had no way of storing the incidents otherwise recorded on different cameras. Anyone who has ever seen the old group A Bathurst videos will understand what I mean. As bad as they were, they were still better than the ATCC coverage. Hell, in 88 or 89 the ABC broadcast the Sandown 500 because channel 7 couldn't be stuffed.

All good then. Scott, have you fitted them up to your car, yet?

Rumour has it that the Michelin are the shit for road legal tyres. Unfortunately you need even larger wads of cash to go anywhere near Bibendum.

Go with the RE55's. Get the harder of the two compounds. Over here (ie WA) most people run either the Bridgies, or the Toyo's in the smaller sizes. So you wont go far wrong. Just look after them (ie get your suspension setup working), keep the pressures correct & understand that until you get some temperature into them they don't work well on the track, allthough are still better than roadies.

Hey Whitesky - I have a question about those upper arms. Do they allow the inner link to rotate about the lateral (ie left/right) axis? The reason I asked is that if they do they may go some way to reducing the load imposed on the back end of the upper, outer bush that occurs when you wind in caster. Will have to hurt my brain and figure out if that is actually possible... Didn't see you at the twilight (January) SES round what happened? By the way don't, under any circumstances listen to Ken's set up advice. I'd hate for you to suffer the burden of going faster than me.

R comp tyres are inherently not good value for money. You can destroy a set in a day if you try hard enough. Having said that I usually find that in the larger sizes the RE55's are cheaper than other brands. Be careful, as there are R compounds and R compounds. Not having heard of the Continental comp R I don't know if they are like the Re55's or closer to the up spec Falkens which aren't a proper R compound.

1) Do I just get as much Castor as I can out of them? Best not to. 2) Is there such a thing as too much? Yes. 3) Stock, my car has 5 degrees left and 6 degrees right, what sort of numbers should I be aiming for? What kind of car is it? 4) Should I just make them the length of the standard ones, then get the shop that does the alignment handle it? That will work. Have a search under stuffed front bushes (one of my posts) to see the downside of too much caster...

Fair enough, Roy. Obviously you are privy to some information that I don't have. As far as front/rear balance is concerned from the published numbers I have seen for pad friction coefficients the RB74 is lower than the DS2500. So if you want to move the brake bias forward then run a higher coefficient pad on the front. My local (ie WA) brake vendor has been recommending DS2500 all round when using that particular pad. Presently I have different pads front/rear but am about to install DS2500s all round. As an aside I don't think that DBA do a 5000 series for either an R32 or an R33. Certainly their catalogue doesn't list one, but I may be wrong on that. Lastly the brake package & pad selection for the car may well depend on the event entered. What you want in a brake pad for a hill climb will be vastly different to that when wanting to do 30+ laps of Queensland Raceway in one hit. I guess I was focusing more on the hill climb/sprint event/road registered aspect of the whole thing & yourself on the 700hp track car.

You forgot braided lines. Also, I think you will find the friction coefficient for RB74's to be lower than that for DS2500. This will affect your brake balance - and not in a good way. Just get some DS2500 rears as well. Lastly, if the rear rotors on your car are in good nick you needn't replace them. The back end doesn't do alot of work, so you can save yourself $400. From using one of the Whiteline suspension kits for the R32 GT-R I can assure you they are streets ahead of the standard stuff & much better than a great deal of the imported gear. Also the price is very good.