djr81

And no ABS....

Both. Garrett made the original turbo's fitted to the GT-R's as well as the N1 turbos you mentioned. So you are getting a Garrett turbo anyway.

If you have RB74's & they are squeeling - go out & hammer the brakes for a little bit. The pads will then shut up for a few weeks...

Better bet is to buy the Garrett equivalent 707160-5. Have a look in the for sale section as there is bloke in WA wanting to get rid of a pair for about $2400 - which is a pretty good price.

Measure from the underside of the guard to the centre of the wheel. The more you lower a Skyline the more -ve camber you get. Although -3 degrees sounds like alot if you have only lowered it by and inch. If you have a look in the group buys section you should find a group buy for the R33 Gt-R for Whiteline bits. I would suggest the camber kits & some adjustable sway bars is a good start.

I mounted my extinguisher using drivers seat retaining bolts. What you need is a length of flat bar (I used stainless steel - about 20mm x 6mm from memory) Match drill the stainless bar to the extinguisher bracket & bolt the two together. Then bend the bar about to allow it to clear all the lumps/bumps in the area. Finally drill another hole for the mounting bolt & attach it. If anyone is interested I can post up a photo tomorrow... Haven't been knocked back by the scrutineers yet. Be aware though, that if you are short this probably won't work as the seat gets in the way.

Three degrees is alot of camber for the road. One of your cheaper options is the Whiteline camber adjustment kits. The front end will give you +/- one degree and the rear kit +/- 0.75 degree (You can use two kits on the rear). You probably need to remove a degree from either end. Question for you - what is the ride height? Also what sway bars do you have?

Whether an oil is synthetic or not makes no difference to the viscosity. A 20W50 mineral oil will be exactly the same as a 20W50 synthetic oil. How long it stays like that is a whole different issue, however. Use a synthetic oil as it will keep the motor cleaner (ie allow less black gunk to build up) when the thing gets exposed to high temperatures. Secondly there is a considerable diference between an oil with a low temp viscosity of 5 and one with a low temp viscosity of 10. Try it next time you buy some oil. Pick up the two different containers in the shop & slop them around a bit. You will be surprised.... Lastly, it will take longer to fill the motor with say a 10W60 Castrol than a 5W50 Mobil. Have just done this (I used some of both as I had some Mobil 1 left over) & I can assure you there is a large difference. This is a good indicator of the diference in the oils viscosity.

Bollocks to all of that. Go and get yourself a spray can of WD40. Hose it on any ash/tar/rubber & then wipe the stuff off. Job done. I use it all the time to get all the little melted bits of rubber you pick up on the track from other cars. It will basically shift any hydrocarbon based gunk.

May help if you can post a photo of the top of the damper. The front & rear spring rates should be different, with the front stiffer than the back. What I was trying to say was that it is not uncommon for Japanese suspension to have very high spring rates which aren't particularly suited to our dodgy roads. If you have such stiff suspension then adjusting the height and/or the dampening probably won't make it ride as well as you would like. Having said that, if there is a big difference front to rear then either the dampers are adjusted very differently (ie one end soft, the other hard) or you have some busted/worn dampers.

Where abouts are you located? There should be a competent workshop nearby. You need some C spanners... Have a look at the top of the dampers to see whether there are any adjusters for them. It should be a small slot which you turn with a screw driver. You may still find that the spring rates are high & that no amount of adjusting the ride height & damping will help.

Just to clear things up: In 1987 Brock drove a VL Commodore (The first VL homologation car - not the Walkinshaw Batmobile) for the season. He finished third at Bathurst, but was promoted to first when the two Texaco Sierras were rubbed out. His car was massively slower than Alan Grice's equivalent that year (The one Win Percy put into the wall at McPhillamy Allan Moffat style in practice) In 1988 he drove a BMW M3 with Jim Richards. These were the cars Frank Gardner abondoned at the end of the previous year when they changed over to Sierra's. In 1989 & 90 he drove Sierra's with most of the engineering done by Andy Rouse. One of the years (Can;t remember which) he won pole after the fire extinguisher "accidently" emptied itself onto the intercooler during Hardies Heroes or Toohey's Top Gun or whatever it was called that year. In 1991 he drove a VN Commodore prepared by Larry Perkins. This is when Larry famously bitch slapped Tomas Mezera after bringing the car back with a stuffed engine. Sensibly, Tomas was wearing his full face helmet at the time. In 1992 he drove a VP Commodore prepared to the then new V8 formula - it lunched its pushrods...

Understand that these people (?) get vast amounts of correspondence, much of it from half baked nutters. So if you want to get their attention a well argued, calm, reasoned letter is your best bet. You may take time to correct him about the nonsensical claims about pollution and perhaps ask him to explain why his government has (like most of the state governments) decided to try and make political capital by vilifying car enthusiasts. But be aware of the fact that as one person you have next to no chance of convincing these self absorbed clowns anything.

You need to ensure all the wheel speed sensors are working. An intermittent fault in one of these will give you the sort of symptoms you descride.

The bleed valve replaces the stock unit as per the photo.

The key to understaning rear toe effects is to understand how a tyre generate cornering grip. Put simply, when turning a corner there will always be a difference between the direction the tyre is pointing and the direction in which it is headed. This is known as the slip angle. Up to the grip limit of the tyre the higher the slip angle the higher the cornering grip. The amount of grip the tyre generates is also proportional to the load on the tyre, ie vertical force acting on it. The more downforce on the tyre the more grip it can generate. If you think about the rear suspension, when travelling in a straight line the two rear tyres, by courtesy of the toe in, are both generating a cornering force - but they are cancelling each other out. When one rear tyre is loaded more than the other (ie the outside wheel when cornering) the toe in/out on this wheel becomes the point of interest and the inside wheel can largely be ignored. If you put toe in on the rear suspension (ie front of the wheel pointing in)you are, when cornering, essentially doing the same thing to the rear of the car as turning the steering wheel does to the front. This makes the car, in a relative sense, understeer a little more than it might otherwise. If you put toe out (ie front of the wheel pointing out) you will have the effect of adding a little more oversteer to the car when cornering. The point to be a little careful of is that when you go over a bump in the road and this only hits one wheel - too much toe in will make the car steer from the rear. Not much fun.

The Australian delivered R32 R's had a cooler for the ATTESSA system, you might be able to eithr find one of them, or copy it.

You could always try a PWR cooler. They are available built to suit the GT-R's & are just under the $1k mark. Best bit is they are made in Oz, not China or Japan.

Is it a pull or a push type?

Revs are an input to. If you sit in the car not moving & rev the engine you will notice the torque gauge move...

The two issues (Gazza's & gaygtr's) are diferent. Gazza - yours sounds for all the world like an electronic problems - in which case the ATTESSA module under the parcel shelf should be blinking away trying to tell you what is wrong. JayGT-R's is, like has been said, either a bleed issue in the attessa or worn clutch packs. Take it to someone who knows the systems & just as importantly knows what to expect from the ATTESSA system in terms of performance.

No.

Paint it red. Here is some inspiration:

ATTESSA is a reactive system, so it is only ever going to try & catch up with what you are doing. It can be air in the system, but it also (Don't want to alarm you) can be due to wear in the ATTESSA clutch plates. When these gets tired the system still apportions torque (or tries to) by using the same clamping pressure as before, but it no longer works properly because the wet clutches slip more than they are supposed to. Best bet is to get the system bled, then check it by a back to back test with a known good unit.

There are some things to worry about other than the drivetrain. Firstly the easiest way to lunch your RB26 to to launch with the sump half full. Make sure if you are going to the drags etc that the thing is overfull - by about a litre. Secondly - using massive rpm on launch is a really good way of destrying the oil pump on an early RB26 - you have been warned. Finally, the amount of rpm needed depends on how sticky your tyres are. Anything in the range of 4000rpm to 6000rpm is required. I needed 6000rpm at the last hillclimb, but that is with 255 width R compounds tyres on a hot day with the car facing up hill. Most days you need less than that.