djr81

Um, it was Scott's first go & he was running on road tyres. Not sure about four seconds, but R compounds certainly do help your lap speed. Point is to go out and have fun. The SES mob are as friendly, interested & helpful bunch of people as you will come across. So get involved!

Just by way of comparison (& maybe to give some people an aiming point) have a look at the following times from the speedeventseries held at Wanneroo in December last year. There are times available for both the short & the long circuits. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....03/12/2005.BARB There is a four wheel drive class as well a heap of others. If anyone has been bitten by the motor racing bug the next event is at Wanneroo on the short course in February.... The calender is on www.speedeventseries.com For one, I wouldn't mind the company. There were only three GT-R's there last time which itself was an improvement... Just remember, you don't get faster sitting at home on the play station.

Look at it this way - the stock oil temp gauge on a GT-R is in the range of about 70 degrees to 150. If you are just cruising along it settles at about 90 degrees. So you would infer that 90 degrees is a good aim point for the oil temp.

Dan, This may be a bit of a long(ish) shot, but from memory the front diff has a breather attached. I think (From memory, again) that the end of the breather pipe bolts up to the underside of the induction manifold. If you can find this & trace it, it may be possible to get some fluid into the diff via the breather. Just a thought. Richard

Even though it is not transmitting power, the diff is still going round. So if there is no oil in it, there is still a large likelihood of it going bang.

Front diff (like the back one) is not connected to the ATTESSA reservoir. It doesn't have one at all. If you are hacing probs with the 4WD system check the error codes on the module under the parcel shelf.

The pineapples are an addition to the silicone bushes. You don't actually replace the bushes, just fit the pineapples over the outside. I only know this because I had to ask the same question the other week. It is a pretty simple job.

Brett, Quick question: are you using the short track or the long track. Just that I have never driven on the long track at night. The exit of Shell & Kolb would be interesting in the dark...

For anyone looking for these explanations (& alot more) the best starting point is the Garrett website www.turbobygarrett.com The site has a number of tutorials that leads you through the nomenclature of the various bits of the turbo & better still helps explain the effects of having, say, a larger A/R on the compressor wheel.

A couple quick things: Think of a corner as something you take in four parts 1. Brake. 2. Turn in. 3. Mid corner - 0% TPS or close 4. Corner exit. The only part of the corner that the anti squat characteristic has an large impact is in the last bit, ie power down. It wont make any real difference in parts 2 or 3 & only marginally in part 1 (Anti dive takes care of part 1) Data logger is just a 3D GTECH RR using an exported csv excel file. Highly recommend one for I think about $500. It is probably worth the exercise of sitting your car in the drive way & then applying say a quarter of lock of steering. This will give you a bit of an idea as to how much (or how little) the caster affects the camber. The result may suprise you. Best bit is it costs nothing.

Fair point about it being viewed as a whole. I guess I was trying to break it into more discrete lumps to help explain things. From trying to set up my car I have found that the caster angle needs to be set up before the camber - because adjusting the caster changes the camber, but not the other way around. Thats with rods, not bushes, but we don't need to go there. What I would happily kill for is a model of the front end of a Skyline that allows you to determine the total -ve camber over a range of conditions and settings.(ie the combined effects of caster, camber, body roll & everything else). Can't ever see this happenning, however. From peddling my 32 I have found that it is not worth trading more +ve caster for less -ve camber - atleast on an R32 this tends to make the front end grip go away. However as the 32's run much less caster in the first place it isn't necessarily apples with apples. I don't claim to understand the tyre wear issue for 33's either. For me I have found that unless you are bagging the rears the fronts will wear more quickly. On the track and on a road/race compromise set up mostly the wear is to the outside of the tread face (for both R compounds & road tyres). Because of this reason I am happy to run -ve camber to deal with front end grip and worry less about wear on the inner edge of the tyre. Also, if you have standard rotors/calipers it is difficult to consistently lock anything up on the track - making the degredation in straight line grip due to -ve camber less of an issue than it may be (more so for R compounds than roadies) Have a look at the data log screen dump of a nothing burger lap of Wanneroo. You can see that the lateral gees (green) is much more than than the longitudinal (red) gees. (Blue is the rpm which needs recalibrating). Point is the brakes cannot generate as many gees as the tyres can handle - so the compromise is then weighted towards making the thing corner. The fact that I need some bigger brakes is a whole other issue. Just what I have found to try to illustrate a different compromise for a different car.

If it is traction you are after then you will be needing the rear to squat. Squat/anti squat & anti dive (for the front end) is not a first order issue when it comes to cornering. Best not to worry too much about it in relation to this issue. But (Always is one) if your setup is prone to power on understeer introducing more rear weight transfer (ie more squat) will exacerbate this problem. Fitting pineapples is neither hard to do yourself nor too expensive to get someone else to do it for you. May be best to put them in the neutral position first & then make a judgement call, rather than pre empt it at this stage (Just my humble opinion) As for the camber/caster issue. I found that when doing a wheel alignment on my car (an R32GT-R) that introducing more caster via the caster rods reduced the amount of static camber the tyre had. So I would expect similar for your car. Of the two (Caster/camber) the camber you are running is more important. Castor only has an impact (a beneficial one) when steering lock is applied, ie you get more -ve camber by running more +ve caster but only when you turn the wheel. Most cars (I assume for R33's) have some degree of camber adjustment - so you should be able to get atleast some without bushes. Having said that & if you have to make a choice I would recommend some camber bushes in preference to the castor bushes. Both is better again.

To answer these in the wrong order... Don't use a shifter - if you want to do it this way get yourself a set of wide nosed multigrips. They lock in place making it much less likely you will damage your car or yourself. The blokes at the pits don't really care about the rocker panels (Technical term), but can get a little worried about bent up chassis rails. They also get a bit concerned with signs of rust in the rails & particlarly if they have been bent & refilled with any sort of body filler.

It is quite easy to compare prices for gear between Nengun & Greenline. Obviously then you go to whomever is cheapest as both have a good reputation. Not rocket science, really. For the stuff I ordered Nengun happenned to be cheaper. I recently ordered a few grands worth of gear through Nengun & it all arrived - the only slow stuff was because there was no stock with the suppliers. It arrived without customs duty - possibly something to do with the way it was marked up on the packaging...

My R32 GT-R has developed a case of "bleeding stinking silicon shite from the rear subframe bushes" as is common for the model. Can anyone suggest a vendor for replacement bushes & also how much for them & for the install. Thanks in advance.

What mostly affects R compounds is the number of heat cycles they get put through. Tread face temps get up around 90 degrees on a circuit & the more times they go throught the heat up - cool down cycle the harder they get. BUT (there is always a but) they wear faster than they harden - so don;t worry too much unless you only do hill climbs. Street - 32psi. Drap - less don't know Track - start at 32 & let them down from there. Aim for mid thirties hot. Best check it to run a pyrometer across the treadface after a run.

A couple of things: One of the principal differences between stainless steels & carbon (ordinary) steels is that stainless has a much higher coefficient of thermal expansion. Hence when heated it will expand much more than ordinary steel. That is why keeping the stuff flat when welding it is so difficult. It is for this reason that you should make the flanges that attach to the turbo from carbon steel - otherwise you can stress the housing. I have a set of HKS dumps made with carbon steel flanges & stainless pipes. As for the grade 304 is just as good in this application as 316. 316 has a higher chrome content & is better at handling acids (Principally hydrochloric) - not a concern in out application. No point using either 316L or 304L as these only have a lower carbon content - a waste of money for our application. Electrolisis can be a problem - but usually only if you live to about 140. There are that many different steels, aluminium & other metals in the engine bay it is usually not worth worrying about.

Gary, I am missing some understanding somewhere (ok, most places, but I digress). Doesn't the oil return from the turbos feed into the sump in any case? I thought that it wouldn't matter much where the return line from the catch can goes as pressure will be present in the sump from blow by anyway. But as I said, maybe I am missing something....

That is a neat installation. I have seen some really horrible ones with hoses trailing all over the engine bay & dodgy holes punched into the top of the catch can to allow it to breath. Also the constabulary don't much like external breathers on the things... Can I ask where from & how much?

From what I understand the ECU was changed to reset the speed limiter from 180km/h to was unacheivable number. Other than that it was the same unit.

Hey Jason, can you post up a picture of your oil/air separator. I have seen some GT-R fill their catch cans within a few laps. It is because some people install a high volume oil pump without matching it to an oil restrictor to reduce the volume of oil pumped into the head. What then happens is that with some lateral gees & high revs the cam covers get filled with oil & it goes from there into the catch can. The setups for some track GT-Rs are quite particular as to how they plug into the breathers on the cam covers. The White's R34 that they used in Targa Tassie is a good example. I think I may have a photo somewhere of the engine bay. As for the overfillers (Guilty as charged) I don't have any problems with oil going places it shouldn't.

The search button is your friend. Basically you get a small roof mounted aerial, an oil cooler for the ATTESSA system & the speed limiter effectively is removed. From memory that is about it.

As part of the Tomei kit install you disconnect a plug under the bonnet. This in addition to fitting the washers & the small electrical unit. Unfortunately I don't understand all the instructions (They are in Japanese) so don't know exactly what it is you are disconnecting... Can anyone help?

The car is 15 years old, has done close on 100,000 miles. So it will probably be tired - it certainly sounds it. For my ten cents it is probably better finding something that you don't have to spend 2 or 3 thousand on to get it up to scratch. There should be loads of R32 on the market presently.

Some questions: Do I need to consider a better fuel pump or is the standard one good enough? Stadard one is ok if your AFR's are ok on the dyno. Just turn up with a full tank. Is 16psi OK to run with this setup? Maybe, see previous answer. Do you need to drop the gearbox to fit the baffled sump kit or is it actually easier than that? Not 100% sure, but I believe it is harder than that. Remember you have a drive shaft running through your sump & a subframe holding the whole shebang up. Are there benefits or pitfalls in replacing the engine driven radiator to a thermo electric fan? Slight gain in power, not worth messing around with. Anything that I should consider that I haven't listed? Worry about temperatures of everything - but mostly your engine & your brakes.