djr81

With tight nuts (but NOT nyloc nuts) the best trick is to give them a good soak in WD40 for a day or so before trying to remove them. This helps break down any corrosion. Also the other useful technique is to bash it gently with a hammer. Put your spanner (Try not to do this with sockets) on the nut, load it up to take the slack out of the system & then bash the spanner (gently!) with a hammer. This puts more torque into the nut/bolt but with less energy - result is you are less likely to round the nut.

Be careful bloke. One of the quickest ways of killing an engine is to run it lean at full noise. If you think this is the problem get it to a dyno & check the AFR. Should be in the 11 to 12:1 range. Any more than this & you can easily kill your motor.

Depends what type it is. If it is a mechanical type you are pretty much restriced to changing the drive gear for the speedo in the gearbox. If it is electronic you can have it recalibrated any way you like.

2 piece rims have the centre section bolted to the outer, not welded. I have had mine repaired, you just have to unbolt the outer section first.

Put simply, the main advantage from lighter wheels is a lower unsprung mass. The job of the springs/dampers/roll bars is to keep the wheel/tyre on the road surface. Obviously the lighter the wheel/tyre combination the less work the suspension has to do to keep them on the road. End result: more grip. A secondary benefit is that it can reduce the vehicle mass as a whole. A light set of 17's can be up to 10kg lighter than an equivalent set of 19 or 20 inch rims.

A two piece rim is as good as a three piece, so don't get too hung up about it. A three piece allows the manufacturer to vary the rim offset& width without having to utilise a heap of different production options. A two piece will usually be lighter than a one piece, because the transition from the centre section to the outer section is not dictated by casting considerations. One of the key criteria (for me anyway) when buying rims is their weight. The lighter the wheel - the lower your unsprung mass which is all to the good. You will find much of what is sold in the local tyre shops is ex China & some of them (Not all!) can be quite heavy. As with most things - you get what you pay for.

Common wisdom is that you will get a larger gain by retarding the exhaust cam than from advancing the inlet cam. So given the choice, do the exhaust. However, for the extra $200 ish you may as well do both.

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but... Does anyone have the part number of one of these puppies, ie oil sender unit for an early R32 Rb26dett. It is just that the customer service from my local Nissan dealer varies between incompetent & downright hostile, hence I dont trust them to get it right.

Don't confuse the torque band of the engine with the mechanical rev limitation, ie the redline. Nissan set the RB26 up with an 8000rpm redline (I think the hard cut is 8200) because that is about the limit of the strength of the internals. Please note that a 200rpm increase from 8000rpm to 8200rpm is alot more strenuous than one from 4800rpm to 5000rpm (My old XE Foulcan redline!). If you have a dyno sheet I can help show you how to calculate the most efficient change up point, ie when to change to get the most speed out of your car. REv the motor to go faster, but not so hard as to hurt it...

From what I understand the viscosity of the oil is in no way indicative of the propensity of the oil to break down on a molecular level at elevated temperatures. More important is the maintenance of a lubricating film - which does tie viscosity to temperature. Unfortunately finding out this sort of information usually requires the services of a tribologist. Best advice is buy an oil cooler...

I have some of these (the slotted version). They hold up well & I can recommend them. Shop around & make sure you get a good price.

Actually they claim 80 points which gives a change in the RON of 8, ie 98 + 8 = 106. I use about half a bottle in my GT-R's tank to ward off any hint of detonation on track days. Works a treat.

Mmmm, getting it finished sometime before 2010 would be a good start. Damn.

Fellas, be a bit careful when handling toluene. It is not very nice stuff. Here is a link to a Material Safety Data Sheet for it. These data sheets are prepared for most chemicals that are, in some form, dangerous. http://www.temarry.com/MSDS/Toluene_msds.htm Best advice is: Don't breath in the fumes. Don't get it on your skin. Keep it well away from your missus/kids.

Broadly, the first number in the viscosity sequence (X W Y) is the low temperature viscosity. So a 5W40 is less viscous (thinner, if you will) at low temperatures than a 25W50 oil. The other number is the high temperature viscosity, hence a 5W50 oil will be more viscous than a 5W40 oil at higher temperatures. I can't remember what the two temperatures are, but they form part of a standard of sorts.

The Nulon Pro claims to boost the Octane number by about 8, but obviously it depends on how much booster gets put in how much fuel. Some of the octane boosters talk in terms of points. These seem to be a tenth of the RON, eg boosts octane by 50 points actually only means an increase in 5 on the RON. About half a bottle is sufficient for a Skyline tank - this will get you back up over the 98 mark on a base of 95. By the way, you can happily drive your car on 95 Octane. Just drive gently and don't give it full boost etc etc. Also, the easiest way of getting the brown sh!t off the back of you car after using the octane booster is with a rag & some CRC or WD40. Then give it a wash.

The circuit is easy to find. Drive through Collie (Towards Darkan) and keep going until you will see a sign for the motorplex at the bottom of the hill a few kms out from Collie. Turn right. Then it is left at the next tee junction and the circuit is a couple of km's further down on your right. There is no 98 Octane in Collie. Best bet is to fill up in Pinjarra & also bring a jerry can.

I have a set that has recently come off my GT-R. Send us a pm if you are interested in them. $100. Cheers.

Steve, For what it is worth (my ten cents anyway) if the motor is ok then leave it alone. If it needs doing then do it properly. Don't half rebuild a motor, least of all a turbo motor - not least because the big end bearings don't enjoy the experience. No good having good piston rings & stuffed bearings. A compression/leak down test will tell you what you need to know. Have you had one of these done? If you want to fix a few things it is probably a good idea to look at the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, rear main seal & the other ancillaries.

Munna, Best thing about the later model GTech's is the ability to download the runs from the GTech to you computer. You can then analyse the runs & work out how to go quicker, eg launch better, change gear at certain rpm etc etc. Do you have any files? If you want to post 'em I'm sure people would be interested.

Have a look at the attachment. This is my GT-R at Wanneroo with uprated springs & stock anti roll bars. I went home sea sick that day. So, yeah, anti roll bars are definately on the things to do list. They make a large difference. Not least to the likelihood of keeping your lunch down. Gone for some Whiteline sway bars, but I haven't got an after photo yet. Sorry. Oh, and before anyone starts bagging me out Cat corner at Wanneroo has a REALLY late apex.

GTechs are quite repeatable and hence, if set up correctly, accurate. Some things to consider: The GTech will make a correction to your start time/reaction time when logging quarter mile times. It does this also for 0 - 100 runs. Check up in the manual to see how it works. If you remove the correction the 0 - 100 times will be more accurate. If the rpm's are calculated correctly you can cross check the timing from the acceleromter with the engine revs. All you need to do is work out how many revs in second/third gear equates to 100km/h. Best bet to help you understand what is going on is to export the data as a csv file & plot it yourself. Lastly, set it up as level as possible & then make sure you do a calibration run.

Like the man says. Do you have a chart from the Dyno? If so post it up. Could be a few things: Firstly, sounds like a tuning issue. So check the A/F ratios and the ignition advance. Mines ECU's are well known for running fat on both fuel & ignition advance. Works ok in Japan, but less well on our fuel. Secondly, boost is coming on way too late. Again, probably a tuning issue. If you can swap it for a stock ECU or a Power FC for a back to back test this will tell you what you need. Thirdly, if you think it has adjustable cam gears then pull the front cover off & have a look. It is an easy job. You need to do this because a side affect of adjusting the cam timing is that at the sime time the ignition timing changes. So you need to know the cam phasing to set your ignition timing.

Try Alliance Rim Repair. They used to be in Northbridge, but moved further north. They made my rims look like brand new. Probably best to take the rim down for a look & ask. Just don't be in a hurry to get it back, ie allow say three weeks as they are busy & have a bit of a production line thing happenning.

Hey Blacky, could you PM me with details please.