djr81

Actually they claim 80 points which gives a change in the RON of 8, ie 98 + 8 = 106. I use about half a bottle in my GT-R's tank to ward off any hint of detonation on track days. Works a treat.

Mmmm, getting it finished sometime before 2010 would be a good start. Damn.

Fellas, be a bit careful when handling toluene. It is not very nice stuff. Here is a link to a Material Safety Data Sheet for it. These data sheets are prepared for most chemicals that are, in some form, dangerous. http://www.temarry.com/MSDS/Toluene_msds.htm Best advice is: Don't breath in the fumes. Don't get it on your skin. Keep it well away from your missus/kids.

Broadly, the first number in the viscosity sequence (X W Y) is the low temperature viscosity. So a 5W40 is less viscous (thinner, if you will) at low temperatures than a 25W50 oil. The other number is the high temperature viscosity, hence a 5W50 oil will be more viscous than a 5W40 oil at higher temperatures. I can't remember what the two temperatures are, but they form part of a standard of sorts.

The Nulon Pro claims to boost the Octane number by about 8, but obviously it depends on how much booster gets put in how much fuel. Some of the octane boosters talk in terms of points. These seem to be a tenth of the RON, eg boosts octane by 50 points actually only means an increase in 5 on the RON. About half a bottle is sufficient for a Skyline tank - this will get you back up over the 98 mark on a base of 95. By the way, you can happily drive your car on 95 Octane. Just drive gently and don't give it full boost etc etc. Also, the easiest way of getting the brown sh!t off the back of you car after using the octane booster is with a rag & some CRC or WD40. Then give it a wash.

The circuit is easy to find. Drive through Collie (Towards Darkan) and keep going until you will see a sign for the motorplex at the bottom of the hill a few kms out from Collie. Turn right. Then it is left at the next tee junction and the circuit is a couple of km's further down on your right. There is no 98 Octane in Collie. Best bet is to fill up in Pinjarra & also bring a jerry can.

I have a set that has recently come off my GT-R. Send us a pm if you are interested in them. $100. Cheers.

Steve, For what it is worth (my ten cents anyway) if the motor is ok then leave it alone. If it needs doing then do it properly. Don't half rebuild a motor, least of all a turbo motor - not least because the big end bearings don't enjoy the experience. No good having good piston rings & stuffed bearings. A compression/leak down test will tell you what you need to know. Have you had one of these done? If you want to fix a few things it is probably a good idea to look at the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, rear main seal & the other ancillaries.

Munna, Best thing about the later model GTech's is the ability to download the runs from the GTech to you computer. You can then analyse the runs & work out how to go quicker, eg launch better, change gear at certain rpm etc etc. Do you have any files? If you want to post 'em I'm sure people would be interested.

Have a look at the attachment. This is my GT-R at Wanneroo with uprated springs & stock anti roll bars. I went home sea sick that day. So, yeah, anti roll bars are definately on the things to do list. They make a large difference. Not least to the likelihood of keeping your lunch down. Gone for some Whiteline sway bars, but I haven't got an after photo yet. Sorry. Oh, and before anyone starts bagging me out Cat corner at Wanneroo has a REALLY late apex.

GTechs are quite repeatable and hence, if set up correctly, accurate. Some things to consider: The GTech will make a correction to your start time/reaction time when logging quarter mile times. It does this also for 0 - 100 runs. Check up in the manual to see how it works. If you remove the correction the 0 - 100 times will be more accurate. If the rpm's are calculated correctly you can cross check the timing from the acceleromter with the engine revs. All you need to do is work out how many revs in second/third gear equates to 100km/h. Best bet to help you understand what is going on is to export the data as a csv file & plot it yourself. Lastly, set it up as level as possible & then make sure you do a calibration run.

Like the man says. Do you have a chart from the Dyno? If so post it up. Could be a few things: Firstly, sounds like a tuning issue. So check the A/F ratios and the ignition advance. Mines ECU's are well known for running fat on both fuel & ignition advance. Works ok in Japan, but less well on our fuel. Secondly, boost is coming on way too late. Again, probably a tuning issue. If you can swap it for a stock ECU or a Power FC for a back to back test this will tell you what you need. Thirdly, if you think it has adjustable cam gears then pull the front cover off & have a look. It is an easy job. You need to do this because a side affect of adjusting the cam timing is that at the sime time the ignition timing changes. So you need to know the cam phasing to set your ignition timing.

Try Alliance Rim Repair. They used to be in Northbridge, but moved further north. They made my rims look like brand new. Probably best to take the rim down for a look & ask. Just don't be in a hurry to get it back, ie allow say three weeks as they are busy & have a bit of a production line thing happenning.

Hey Blacky, could you PM me with details please.

A spin at 170km/h! How puckered is the seat trim? My R understeers quite doggedly at present, so over cooking it usually involves running wide & scrubbing off speed that way. Note that the surface of the racetrack makes a big difference to the grip available. At less grippy tracks you can knock off a tenth or more quite easily. I find it a bit the opposite, ie it is easier to generate good laterals than be a hero & be last of the late brakers into the corners. Will have to get out there again & mash the anchors to see the peak numbers it an generate.

Not really sure. I previously couldn't, but just changed out my (leaking) master cylinder which may have helped things. I try to be smooth, but find I spend alot of time on the circuit tyring hard not to be crap. Tyres are RE55's, so quite grippy, especially on the resurfaced Wanneroo. Locks things up fine on road tyres. From the list in Race magazine the highest coefficients were only about 0.5, so I don't know if there is a huge difference in the pads themselves.

Hmm, well the data logger (G-Tech) is spitting out 1.35 gees lateral. Best braking is just over 1.0 gee. This on RB74's pads (Friction coefficient of 0.45) which are ok. Hence the question. There again maybe I just need to grow some bollocks.

Yes they are. You can get both front and rear adjustable bars which are both thicker than standard & also solid instead of hollow. Give Whiteline a call they are pretty good. Between tyre pressures & adjustable roll bars there is enough to get you completely lost on set up. Well I do anyway. So good luck. SK, out of interest how much gees under brakes do you get with the stock rotors & Hawk pads?

Grants right. The power steering pump tends to breath a bit out of the top of the reservoir. It doesn't take much loss of fluid to get the light flashing. So have a look & top it right up. Problem should then go away. If you want a drift look to your engine bay, put a white cotton glove over the top of the reservoir.

Sway bars should be used to balance the handling front to rear. I just bought an adjustable H/duty sway bars from Whiteline - Rear is $260ish (Code BNR26XZ - note the code on the whiteline pdf sheet is WRONG!). You can then balance the car better & aren't locked into one particular setting. Well worth a look.

Hmmm, the outer section of my rim near the tyre was, to look at, quite bad. It needed rolling out to return it to round. Still balanced up ok before it was repaired, though. So I am not sure how you would buckle a rim sufficiently badly to not be able to balance it, but then still not be able to see it on the rim. For what it is worth to get one tyre balanced I would suggect giving it a go somewhere else before coughing up for a new set of rims.

Yes they can be repaired. I have had four of my rims cleaned up (two of which needed rolling to remove dents), the gutter rash welded up & then repolished & clear coated. Cost $600 for the lot. Have a good look at the rims. If they are sufficiently damaged to be out of balance it will stick out like dogs balls. If you cannot see any damage the tyre shop is telling you porkies.

You will probably find the 4.9 metres refers to the radius, not the diameter. 9.8m turning circle sounds about right.

First question to ask them is can they do all four wheels. This weeds out ninety something percent of the shops. I usually hang around and annoy the blokes whilst they are doing it. Personally I found Bob Janes to be ok. But that is here, who knows what your local franchise is like.

I found it a bit the opposite. I had a wheel alignment done on my GT-R & the shop stuffed it up. I gave them a total toe in measurement which they interpreted as a per side measurement. Result was the car tram lined like a pig until I took it back & asked very politely if they could do the job properly. Please. So I would recommend not running too much toe in. My present settings are 0.3 per side at the front & 0.5mm per side at the back. Seems to be ok at that. So on the road less toe in can result in a more stable car. On the track is a different matter. Depends what you want.