djr81

Fellas - as my Grandmother used to say - ITS NICE TO BE NICE - so be nice (please). Please be careful throwing around numbers. Remember that the original request was for road suspension with occassional track use. Anyone here volunteering to use 7 or even 4 degrees neg camber on the road? Track suspension castor/camber/toe settings will always be more extreme than those for the road. What works on one track may be hopeless on another - the same can be said for cars and drivers and tyres and weather conditions and spring rates and sway bar settings and a whole heap of other things.

Don't panic. What the workshops mean by saying they have "done all the things" is that they have sent DOTARS all the evidence packs & the other guff they need. It doesn't mean they have actually finished modifying your car. Same thing happened to me. The wait for DOTARS is interminable - that will be the source of the delay, not so much the workshop. Couple of questions: When did the shop submit the evidence pack? When is your inspection date?

I have been trying to set my car up with the Whiteline swaybars & near standard springs & not having much success. In saying that they are great for the road, but not so great on the track. There are alot (ALOT) of variables on how the car behaves & indeed on how you want it to behave. So have a think about the type of handling characteristics you are chasing. Also the spring rates listed are high - they are much more track orientated than for the street. Stock springs are about 1/3rd the rates you have. Even the Whiteline gear is less than half (About 3.5kg/mm for an R32 GT-R - slightly higher at the front, lower at the rear.) Springs/dampers/sway bars are all interrelated & to be honest I doubt you will have a huge amount of success running the 10 & 7kg/mm springs.

The ATTESSA system can be disabled by pulling a fuse. Symptons of its failure are that there is little or no torque transfer forward - despite what the gauge is telling you. Mostly this will give you bulk oversteer - you should be able to feel the front wheels pulling the car back into line if the system is fully operational. Unless you have a serious lack of rear end grip you won't be getting wheelspin in third or even fourth in a straight line. Which suggests clutch. To allay you fears about the ATTESSA system, get a mate to drive alonside & keep a lookout for wheelspin.

The cops are always out to prove they are Nazis at Rally Oz & infact at any motorsport event. They set up at the 40km/h school zone at Harvey at 2.00pm & also out the back of Dwellingup. Shame they don't think to put any effort in to helping anyone.. Anyway, got some shots from the Friday - anyone else get any good ones?

SK - you have a pm.

Not sure if I mentioned what dampers the thing is presently running... To be honest the sway bars are a new addition. I have found that the traction difficiency (such as it is) has, if anything, been lessened by the stiffer sway bars. I can dig up the data logger info to support this, but it will have to wait until another run at Wanneroo for a definitive answer. The last time at Collie the track was filthy, so it was hard to be 100% sure - but it did feel better & looked better on the traces. For the record the sway bar combination is BNF27Z front & BNR26XZ rear and has reduced the steady state understeer. Yes it feels taily on turn in - but I can live with this until the HICAS is cancelled. I believe the better traction is because of less body roll which in turn compensates for the otherwise unhelpful lateral spring load transfer of the sway bars. Also, from following other R32's around the track they commonly buzz the inside rear out of slow corners. The reason I asked the question is that the Nissan manual has the rear spring rates higher than the front. This goes against what I understood would be the case (Particularly given the horrible weight distribution in the R32 GT-R). My springs (Both front and rear) are 25% higher than the stock Nissan units - the windings appear the same - just the wire diameter has increased. All of the aftermarket springs on offer from Japan seem to have the front springs stiffer than the rears - which makes sense to me. I do understand the function of the dampers in maintaining surface contact for the tyres - but it was the springs I was asking after. What I was trying to do is to get some understanding of the apparent discrepency between the rates quoted in the good book & those chosen by aftermarket suppliers. By the way the Tein coilovers have 30% larger diameter dampers & are adjustable - not Bilsteins to be sure, but then again they won't cost me Bilstein money. SK - can you tell us what the rates are for the Whiteline GT-R springs on offer? Some of the frustration I have is that the whole world believes that GT-R's oversteer. Mine used to on road tyres, but won't on R compounds. Perhaps it is insufficient power - but in any case understeer + wheelspin isn't the quickest way around the track. I am trying to work towards a more stable turn in & a lower propensity to heavy understeer in the tight stuff & to be honest I am having trouble getting my head around the springs. Maybe I will have to wait until after the HICAS is gone & the castor rodes are installed.

I suppose if I had to try & characterise the handling it would be as follows: Stable state: Understeer Turn in: feels slightly taily (HICAS?). Power on: Wheel spin + understeer For example there is a largish (3rd gear) chicane on the main straight at Collie. Steering input in the first half is less than in the second. I cannot get mid corner oversteer for love nor money, but get wheel spin on corner exit. I am a bit reluctant to introduce more rear roll stiffness as this will degrade the rear grip & make it even more twitchy on turn in. Most of the loses/half loses I have is on turn in with the car wanting to swap ends. Braking & turning in at the same time is a complete other world. As for toe in I run very little on the front, but approx 1mm total on the rear I have had more rear toe in, but then it tram lines like a bitch on the road. My gut feel is to fix the HICAS & then worry about the springs. I just can't reconcile the spring rates with the needed (ie more neutral) handling characteristics.

I have an old R32 GT-R to which I have fitted some Whiteline HD adjustable sway bars & approx 25% harder springs than standard, albeit on stock ride height. Next step (after the HICAS is gone & the cradle mounts fixed up) is some springs/shockers. The current spring rates are about: Front 2.4 + 25% = 3kg/mm (2.4 is stock rate from the manual) Rear. 2.7 + 25% = 3.38kg/mm (2.7 is stock rate from the manual) I have access to some Tein comfort spec coilovers which are supposed to be: Front: 5 kg/mm Rear: 4 kg/mm Presently with the sway bars in and both on their softest settings - the car feels a little taily on turn in - something I put down to the HICAS. However, the predominant handling characteristic is still understeer - which will hopefully be reduced with new castor rods next Wednesday. From what I understand going to a higher rate front spring (relative to the rears) will make the thing understeer even more. However all the aftermarket springs on offer ex Japan (not sure about the Whiteline offerings) use a harder front spring than rear. Other than fiddling with roll centre differentials front/rear and/or tyre pressures is there a straight forward means to reduce this understeer?

Mik, Remember that the oil from the oil pump has more than one option - it goes into the motor as well as the turbo. Fitting a flow restrictor on the turbo will not change the pressure upstream worth a damn but will reduce the flow and hence pressure downstream - ie in the bearings and around the seals where it counts.

Disadvantages are threefold: 1. It's going to cost you more. 2. It is going to weigh more in the exact location that GT-R's don't need more weight. 3. It is going to take longer for the car to get up to working temperature - more engine wear. Also, I understand that much above 40mm thick is difficult to install without moving shrouds etc. Just don;t quote me on that.

To be honest I run out of brakes long before anything else. The brakes get a bit of a pasting into the chicane & then again into the hairpin before the strart/finish line. If you are running proper race pads you should be ok. Endless are not exactly cheap, but it would pay to give the grumpy old bugger at racebrakes in Melbourne a call. You should find they can sort you out with something that will be happy above the 600 degree mark & also with a decent friction coefficient (mu of about 0.5). Unfortunately they don't work from cold, so you really need to fit them up for a track day & then remove them again. I looked at the prices for proper brakes - ended up scared. Hopefully will see you at Wanneroo. The calender is at www.speedeventseries.com

Hello Pete, If I can suggest the best person to talk to would be Jamie who runs (with his Dad) an R32 GT-R at Wanneroo & also in the SES you refer to. There is a hill climb on Saturday 5th (At Wanneroo) & also the combined short/long course sprint in December. From what I understand the biggest problem will be keeping the brakes cool - which your intention of removing the stone guards & ducting the rotors will help. As for the remainder - the drive train should be able to live with three laps of Wanneroo at a time. This is only three and a bit minutes of flat out motoring. Hill climbs are even less. Not that I have your sort of horsepower, but cooling the drivetrain is not an issue I have had. Cheers Richard

Castor rods for R32 GT-Rs are different to R32 GTS-T's Which do you have (I think they are GTS-T's?)

How bout if I have a go. There are two interelated parameters: Flow (ie the amount of fuel flowing through the injector rail) & pressure (ie as seen by the injectors). If you increase the rail pressure the pump output will drop, ie the higher pressure the pump has to work against the lower its flow rate Pretty straight forward really. However, the opposite happens to the injectors, ie the higher the pressure in the fuel rail the more fuel the fuel injectors will flow. Hence, the higher pressure you dial into the regulator, the richer your motor will run.

1. The cars used for side intrusion tests are not the ones we are speaking of. The remainder of the tests are non destructive, so don't represent a problem. But each of the RAWS needs to present evidence of compliance with the relevant ADR's. 2. Discussion item.

Yeah, tightening up the diff sounds like the other best option. I used the highly technical data logging method of getting a mate to stand on the inside of the corner to see what was happening. Unfortunately there are not any more inputs available for the data logger. (Although I would love to better get at most of what is available in the Skyline eg TPS, steering input, ATTESSA outputs etc etc.)

The wheelspin feels much more like the inside rear spinning rather than a front/rear torque distribution - hence the fix is (broadly) more so to reduce the roll couple (Lower ride height), increase the roll stiffness (sorted) and to tighten up the rear diff. The wheel is sufficiently lightly loaded through Shell to not have much affect on the handling balance when it loses grip - it just annoys me because you cant let the thing drift out against the ripple stip on the exit of Shell during the run up to Kolb. What you are saying about the ATTESSA pack is correct, however presently I have a surfeit of grip over engine output. Hence the car is still understeering - although this is halfway to being fixed also. Just time & money really, like everything.

At the risk of firing this thread off on a tangent - does the R32 V-spec have an active diff? I always assumed it had, but in the absense of hydraulic lines I now doubt it somewhat. From memory it has an ATTESSA System with a higher sample rate (100 times per second rather than four), but does this really make such a huge difference? Reason for asking is given in the attachment - wheelspin. The graph shows a data log from a nothingburger lap of Wanneroo. Particularly through Shell (left hander approx 216 secs into the log) the jagged blue line (rpm) indicates wheelspin - and lots of it. Not sure which end is causing the problem - my first move was to have a go at the suspension rather than the diffs. But the question stands - do R32 V-spec suffer from this nonsense?

Have you got a part number for the Bosch Z32 equivalent? Also, if you want to go for a pod filter Apexi supply kits to suit eg they can supply a kit for an R32 GT-R with Z32 AFM's which include the plugs for the AFM's - just a thought.

The australian cars have an oil cooler for the ATTESSA system. The cooling arrangments for the engine oil are the same as the JDM examples.

Depends on how much boost you eventually want to run. Above about 1.2 bar you probably should go for a dual solenoid setup - in which case I would recommend the Blitz ID III. Below that a single solenoid Blitz or an Apexi will do a good job. Best prices are either from Nengun or Greenline etc.

From memory there are four different types of GT 28-60. Could you please post a part number eg 707160 dash ?

Glenn Seton was driving a Falcon with Allan Jones, sponsored by Peter Jackson. He won the Touring Car championship the following year in it.

A couple of questions: Who supplies the oil catch cans that you commonly see mounted in front of the batteries on R32 GT-R's. Secondly, is there an easy waqy of plumbing the caught oil back into the sump without drilling and tapping holes in the sump.