djr81

The photo actually originates from a for sale notice on these forums! The car was a local (Perth) V-Spec series one that was advertised a few years back. I thought about buying it & now wish I had. One of the nicest I have seen.

Saliya, That id plate lines up with other V-Spec (Series 1's) that I have seen. Not sure what the eight is. All the plates I have seen have this particular character blank on the vspec (1's). My poverty pack 89 model reads: KBNR32RXFSLMZG My poverty pack 94 version reads: KBNR32RXFS7 AA So maybe they changed how the plated were stamped at some stage...

From memory they were 1500kg. They had also had two and a half years of development put into them - basically with Winfield & Nissan money behind them money was not a object for GMS at the time. By way of comparison they were still appreciably faster than the four V8's entered that year. (Two for HRT, one for Brock, one for Glenn Seton) The best bit was after spending the lead up to the race whingeing about how the cars would be unsafe at 1500kg Freddie Gibson had to do an about face & convince CAMS that his cars were safe to enter the race...

To the best of my knowledge: The R32 GT-R was released Aug '89 and ended production in Dec '94 with 43,934 built (A figure which includes all limited editions listed below). The R32 GT-R V-Spec: released Feb '93 through to Dec '94 with 1,453 built. The R32 GT-R V-Spec II: released Feb '94 through to Dec '94 with 1303 built. The are also 560 Nismo editions & 228 N1 editions (Different to V-Specs) Both series V-specs as well as ordinary GT-R’s were built through to December 94. The V-Spec 2 didn't supersede the V-Spec. Both models had Brembo's & the active diff. The difference is limited to the suspension. Saliya, Could you please post up a photo of your diff?

Does anyone know were I can get good photo of the stoush?

Mark Skaife was a lot younger (weren't we all), so was Neil Crompton who came third. Skaife was also (& this might take some believing) even more arrogant than he is now.

I think you are getting a bit mixed up. The track was changed in 87 - subsequent to Mike Burgmann's death on Conrod Sraight - not Denny Hulme's. Mike Burgmann was killed when he hit the base of what was then the Dunlop bridge in his VK Commodore. Denny Hulme on the other hand died of a massive heart attack while driving one of the B&H BMW M3's. The GT-R's, in terms of lap speed, are a long way off the current V8's. Put that down to extra weight, boost restrictions and tyre technology.

Not sure when the inspection is due. DOTARS are allegedly going to advise the workshop this week. The joys of living in WA I suppose. May do a little more groundwork on exactly who the engineer is.

Try www.franzonline.net Server is a bit on the slow side, but the in car of him lapping Wanneroo in his 300ZX proves beyond all doubt that Franz has had his fear glands removed.

Your numbers - particularly castor & camber are conservative. Have a look at the Whiteline website for a first pass for settings. You will find a sheet on GT-R's, not sure about GTS-T, but then you haven't said what you own. Couple of things - firstly you need to understand what effect changes will have & also what you want from your suspension. There are any number of books/tutorials available so best bet is to start there. Secondly what one person likes on a track can be completely different to the next. Your suspension setup will determine how the car feels. Thirdly what is needed to work well on a race track can be a real handful on the road. Finally what looks after your tyres on the track (Mostly castor & camber) can shorten their life on the road.

Mate the only photo I have ever seen was published in the 1993 edition of Australian Motor Racing Yearbook. It shows the car after it has had a lose just over Skyline. The photo is accredited to Greg Taylor & Chevron publishing. Maybe you could email Chevron. Alternatively, try www.oldracephotos.com (Maybe .au aswell, can't remember). Other than that Auto fiction/Motorsport News may have something.

I used a child restraint anchor just infront of the Attessa module & then made up a little bracket. Unfortunately I only have one camera, so I cant take a picture of the camera. Looks like this....

Sard do both a 550cc and a 700cc. Either will do, but it depends on how much head room you want in terms of fuel flow. Cost is not much different in either case & the power fc will run both well. Have a look at Nengun as I think he is doing a special on them at the moment. By the way if you do a search you should be able to find out how to convert injector sizing to a nominal rwhp figure.

I have purchased a Skyline that has arrived from Japan (In April). However it is the first of its model being complied by the workshop. The workshop completed the evidence pack some months ago, however I am still waiting for the DOTARS inspection/sign off for the car. The question I have is simply this - are DOTARS under any sort of obligation to inspect it within a certain timeframe?

Yeah, I know Pete - he lives round the corner. It wasn't the top end performance I was questioning, more so how the turbos react in the mid range & also on/off boost. Pete's 33 had some nice extras, not least of which were the Tomei Poncams...

A fairly straight forward question: In peoples opinions are the Garrett GT28-60's part number 707160-5 too large for a stock RB26? Unfortunately I am yet to see a compressor map for these things (coming soon according to the website) and am a little concerned fitting them up on a stock motor (Usual exhaust, boost control, intakes, cam phasing done) will turn it into a lag meister without sufficient gains in the top end.

Most good brake shops will be able to recondition the master cylinder for you - you will have to do without it for a few days. Approx $200 is the asking price. Just a word of warning - insist they get the seals etc in their store BEFORE you give them anything & check they have done a GT-R one before. I got caught like that by two different shops & had to swap units between my cars.

The panel filter on the VT V8 Commode fits the GT-R. Autobarn should be able to sell you one. It is not too complicated a job to plumb in the stock airbox to larger cold air feeds. You can take the resonator off the bottom of it for starters.

In short yes. These are two of the most common signs of ageing on this model. But you can also add: Wear to the velour trim on the seats. Wear to the steering wheel/leather handbrake & gear covers. Stuffed window seals front & rear.

Just for info, this is what the stockers look like out of their shockers. The rear are on the left, front on the right. Note the fronts have two rates & the rear a taper at the bottom. This helps the low amplitude bump absorption. Bit lost as to the Whiteline offering. A coilover to me means the coil spring is wrapped tightly around the shock. The Skyline setup is, I suppose a coil over, as Gary described, but not I think a coilover in the conventionally accepted desciption. I suppose the question is: are the Whiteline springs coilovers (Much like the Japanese offerings) or coilovers (much like the standard Skyline fare)?

You're right, there are a million threads on this. I just replaced the sender unit on my RB26. The unit is located immediately to the rear of the oil filter. I am assuming the location is the same on an RB25. You can (With the right spanners) remove the sender unit & attach a mechanical gauge. Rev it to the rpm's suggested in the engine manual & read the figure. The fault you describe is the same fault as my old sender unit. Ninety something percent of the time the sender unit is faulty, not the oil pump. For peace of mind, it is best to cough up the $200 for a new sender. This has the added bonus of making the car easier to sell. Hard to convince a prospective buyer that the engine is ok when it is reading 0 psi pressire. Think of it as an investment.....

Gary, can you tell us what the spring rates are for the kit? Reason I ask is that I already have highter rated springs over stock (25%) & am wondering how much harder (again) the Whiteline offerings may be. Also, I guess they are linear rather than rising rate?

Best way of cleaning an oil spill is to put down some cement dust. If the stain has been there for a while, one of those steam pressure cleaners with degreaser mixed in the water is the best. Don't use HCl as it will destroy the concrete before it ever goes near the oil.

IF you have the dyno sheet it should have the AFR graphed. This will tell you if it is a problem or not. Not sure what the max hp on stock injectors is. Best not to run them at 100% anyway. If needed you can either go to a larger injector (still on standard pump) or run a bigger pump at higher pressure (ie new pump & regulator) or if you want to go the whole hog all three.

Hey mate, do you sell prints of the photos?