djr81

Hmmm, was there any evidence of him using recreation drugs? Bedding in the pads entails getting them nice and hot, but not to the point of them smoking! Also, never park a car up with hot brakes - it is a recipe for warping the discs. Atleast the advice about driving around arfterwards is good.

Paul, Is this still going ahead? Just that I have not heard anything for a while. Richard

Don't want to rain on your parade, but for the kind of money you are looking at you will only really get new pads & new rotors. The DBA 4000 series rotors are a good thing. They are slotted, heat treated & marked with thermographic paint. Shop around & try to get a good price. Unfortunately an upgrade to second hand Brembos will be about $2000 for the hardware.

There are a number of different parameters you need to be aware of when choosing brake pads: Friction coefficient - simply the higher the number the better the retardation. 0.45 is a good number, anything higher a bonus. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear. Working temp range - If you are using them both on the road & on the track they need to work from 0 degrees up. You don't want to run the next doors kids over do you? Do you? Equally if the upper limit is in the 650 degrees range be aware that much over this will really start to hurt your rotors. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear, remember the fronts will get hotter. Hardness - The more agressive the pad the more wear on your rotors. Very difficult to get a straight answer from the shops on this. Usually best to rely on word of mouth. Noise - some pads will squeal like a stuck pig. Varies from car to car & from pad to pad. Occasionally a good pasting makes it go away for a time. Sometimes not. Cost - Obvious really. With regards to EBC pads (& forum rules about -ve comments) check their friction coefficients & prices.

To anyone using new pads on the track. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU BED THEM IN ON THE ROAD BEFORE YOU GET NEAR THE TRACK. Get some temperature in them on the street & then allow them to cool off gently. Don't wait for the morning warmup.

Does anyone know wtf is going on with the Collie motorplex. It was supposed to be finished early last month & I just heard from a mate that the surface isn't down yet, nor for that matter the tunnel. Does anyone know when it might be finished?

A number of people have "graduated" from RB74's to the Ferodo pads. Will be interested in how you get on with them. Can you post up a shot of the shot pads? I think a number of people will be interested in seeing them. Also, how did the discs stand up? White haze is interesting. I occasionally suffer from a red haze when really angry and a purple one when Hendrix or Groove Armada is on the stereo.

www.racebrakes.com.au Tell them you are a member of your nearest car club, eg WASCC & they will give you a 10% discount or thereabouts.

Within ten seconds of turning the ignition switch to on keep the automatic air conditioner switch OFF depressed for five seconds. If there is something wrong an error code between 21 & 27 will come up on the display. If 25 comes up go and park the car in the sun. Code 26 is the PBR sensor. If it has failed the Humphrey will pump hot air all the time.

Unusual choice - most people don't bother with RB74's on the rears. Certainly race brakes don't recommend it. You don't need them there & they will only squeal & generally give you the sh!ts. Something cheaper with similar friction coefficients is usually adequate. I have had only good experiences with the RB74 pads - but I may be able to help a bit further if you clarify what you mean by fail. They don't fade as such - it is just that the wear rate goes up markedly when they get really hot. If you want a list of pad types, their friction coefficients & temperature ranges have a look at the current issue of RACE magazine. It has a silver Datto 260Z on the cover.

Could someone please run the following. BNR32-001304 BNR32-001810 BNR32-310253 Thanks in advance.

The build number on the blue id plate should be BNR1XXXXX instead of the normal BNR000XXXX.

There is a distinct difference between the fluid boiling & the pads going off. If you boil the fluid the brake pedal will pretty much sink to the floor - time to go to the pits. If the pads are going away (ie losing their friction coefficient) then it is a fair bet the rotors are (literally) red hot also. Most good compounds (eg RB74's) should hang on well into the 600 degree region (Once this is reached start worrying about your disc longevity) & provide a steady friction coefficient of atleast 0.45. If the first is what is happening, first stop is to make sure your brake fluid is of a decent spec & is fresh. Don't go to the track with old fluid. In this case braided lines may well help. Also, be aware that pad knock off can occur at high speeds if the set up isn't correct. This too will give you a mushy pedal & also brown underwear if it is only happenning at one end. Have a look at the ducting under the car. Is can be directed at the rotors & help keep things cool. Unfortunately the GT-R (Atleast the R32) doesn't have particularly brilliant brakes. Mine struggles to cosistantly record 1 gee under brakees & even then it requires a heap of pedal pressure. So a Cusco brace is a good investment.

Ryan, You have a PM. Cheers Richard

If you hook out the restrictor buy yourself a cheap (<$100) mechanical bleed valve and you can then set the boost at whatever level you like. 14lb or less is fine for a GT-R. The real reason the restrictor is in the line is to get the car under the 280PS limitation in Japan. Why else do you think they make it so easy? Mine has been running on just over 13lb for a couple of years & is fine. The stock ECU's run seriously fat on fuel - you won't lean the motor out. As an aside - don't place too much faith in the boys from Speed magazine. IMHO, their understanding is fairly shallow.

Unfortunately the wires (all 11 of them) are different colours. I did the same thing & managed to wire it up in such a way that it drains my battery in about 3 days. Anyway, the four wires to the speakers you should be able to figure out at the speaker end. To determine the stero end you may need to pull the head unit out & have a look at the back. The two blue wires are power wires (I think) so blank these off. The other one (black/red?) I don't know what it is.

Paul, Please get in contact if/when you have organised things as I would like one too. Cheers Richard

I made a bracket up & bolted the extinguisher to the front of the drivers seat rail. Means you can't move the seat forward, but as I don't share the car with anyone - who cares. When you buy your extinguisher get one with a metal bracket (Mine is a Quell) & also have a look at the date stamped on the handle - go through the boxes & find the most recent.

Try www.alldayperformance.com.au for the Garrett's. They have the GT25-60 listed at $1,595ea.

Dyno's charts are done in either 3rd or4th gear which is 21.9km/h per 1000rpm & 28.5 km/h per 1000rpm respectively.

You may find the cause is the glut of 89/90 MY cars finding their way through the system. Secondly, with regard to R33's there are many SEVS workshops who have used them for their first import types, thus bringing the numbers up.

I am not 100% on this, but I believe that only cars imported under the 15 year rule still retain their Japanese seatbelts.

Tom, The oil filter is a pain to remove. You will end up spilling most of its contents on the engine/diff/ground. Clean the filter with a cloth & clean your hands first. Move the hoses etc out the way first & the unscrew it & pull it out. You will need to tilt it over & spin it a bit to get it. When you replace it, remember to smear a small amount of oil on the rubber seal & whatever you do DON"T DO IT UP TOO TIGHT. Tip almost all the of the contents of a five litre container in, ie over fill it some what. This will stop the oil surge that can kill RB26's.

You won't find a build date on the car. Get the build number & details from the blue build plate & get someone to plug it into the PASS software. The last of the GT-R's will have a BNR3XXXXX (My 94 Gt-R has a three hundred thousand build number) where as an 89 model will read something like BN001XXX (ie in the thousands) Depending on the scheme the car was imported under will determine whether or not is has a second compliance plate. An 89 model imported under the 15 year rule will only have the blue plate from Nissan. An R32 bought in under the old import scheme wil have an additional green plate that should have the build date on it. I am not sure what the story is with the new scheme, but you are unlikely to see a SEVS R32 GT-R yet.

For what it is worth (Probably not much) I overlayed the dyno charts from PNBlights R33 (with 0.6 A/R comp Garrett GT25-60's plus other goodies), itbmils (with 0.42 A/R R34 N1's) & my R32 running stock turbos & 13lb. Hopefully gives an idea of the gains for the various set ups.