djr81

32PSI cold... For those that want to do some circuit work you can (to a degree) dial in a lesser/greater amount of understeer/oversteer by changing the tyre pressures. To make the thing understeer drop the pressures are the front. To lessen understeer increase the front pressures. You should be able to easily detect a 2psi change tested back to back. Higher pressures will reduce a tyres slip angle - limited at the top end by the tread face crowning. Lower pressures will increase slip angle, but provide a better tractive force. Unfortunately low tyre pressures will kill your tyres quicker than most other things (burnouts aside) & cause problems running at high speed due to heat build up in the carcass. In short look after you tyres by keeping the pressures right (go buy a $10 gauge) & rotate them after any track days to equalise wear. The outside front after any track day will look pretty ordinary.

Fellas, Skyline oil pressure guages are well known for this problem. The best thing to do is to get it to a mechanic & get a proper gauge put on as a check. Failing that, replace the sender unit which, from memory, is located near the filter.

Um, it's not that complicated. The original Mitsubishi Magna was fitted with a 2.6 litre four cylinder, called an Astron II if memory serves. It was a dog of an engine: no grunt, no economy & no reliability. The only redeeming feature is that it is fitted with a pair of Lanchester balancer shafts (named for the famous engineer). The idea is that these shafts cancel out the second order harmonic vibration inherent in all four cylinder motors (also inherent in flat plane crank V8s as well eg the Ford DFV, but I digress). The point of the comparison was to suggest that an RB26DETT was pretty much the same as an Astron II. For further information on 1980's vintage Magnas please contact your local Mitsubishi dealer.

A conversation I had back in the day... Commode driver pointing to my GT-R: What size engine has it got. Me: 2.6 litres. Commode driver: Like a Magna you mean. Me: Yeah the same, just without the balance shafts.

Couldn't agree more. I get sick of seeing obviously tired cars presented as having low kms. This one is as honest an example as you would come across.

If people are worried by this they can go one better at the moment. There is an R32 GT-R in the Imports 101 work shop presently. It has had all the compliance work done on it, is ready to rego & is for sale. I think the ask is less than $25k & from viewing it, it is a very nice unit. This is probably the most pain free way of buying a GT-R presently.

No, the shipping was not pre paid. I don't know exactly how Danny arranged it, however it was very nearly put on the previous months ship until I asked for it to be sent at a later date. One of the advantages of working through a local broker is that the Japanese companies will look after their more regular customers (ie your local broker) before they will look after one off customers. This is fairly typical of the way all companies operate.

For what it is worth. Bought my R32 GT-R in November. Asked for it to be shipped to arrive in early January (to take advantage of the import duty reduction). It arrived in Perth on the 13th January - from Nagoya. I only paid for the shipping when I paid for the customs clearance. I bought it through Imports101 (Danny) & couldn't be happier with his service. Anyway, that's my 10c worth.

Danny is good value. He looks after you better & tries harder than most others. I have used his workshop previously & will be sending my R32 there as soon as it clears customs.......

Paul, Please put me down for one also.

Can anyone recommend a user friendly multi plate clutch for my R32 GTR? Presently it has a full face organic Xtreme HD single plate unit, but this will shortly run out of torque capacity. Is there a multi plate clutch than can deliver the same useability without all the rattling and savage bite that most multi plate clutches suffer from.

Con, Both computer systems are good. Something to note is that the power FC uses the MAP sensor inputs much more than most people realise. You can watch the tracer move across the fuel/ignition maps when on boost, ie across the rev range on a fixed Map input. Personally, I use the Power FC, but there again I only have 300 rwhp. Programming it is a snack. It starts reliably, hot or cold and drives like an unmodified factory offering. The decision comes down to this: The power FC runs better when cruising around town, but can be constrained by airflow meters (In terms of overall flow) at full noise. Power FC will run large injectors well. Wolf 3D has most of its benefits in large HP motors & will use more fuel when cruising. For my 10 cents worth, if you are not going for silly horsepower, Power FC is the go.

I can only speak from experience of my R32 GT-R. Wind in as much castor & camber as the adjustments will allow (Which isn't much) Make sure you get all four wheels aligned. Use the standard toe in measurements at the rear and half what Nissan recommend at the front. This should reduce understeer slightly, give you a reasonably secure back end for the turn in and grip the car up through the corner.

Hey Drift, could you please clarify the post a little. I for one can't quite figure out what DOTARS are planning.

To give you a ball park number: To get 750kW at 19,000rpm requires a torque figure of 376Nm. So the peak number would be of the order of 400Nm, ie not much.

Thanks for the info Ken. I hadn't realised you had sold yours. I saw it down at Collie and like you say, it is very clean/shiney. I guess mine is a little off yours - but not too far. Geoff from Prestige reckoned on it being (mine that is, sorry this thread is all about me, me, me) one of the best they had had at till the time of purchase. There again he may say that to all the guys... Sorry and before I get flamed Geoff is ok by me.

Well I have all the receipts and stuff to show what it cost to get on the road and it is basically what I would ask for it. The purpose of the exercise is not to make money on the deal. The problem is, I suppose, getting past the disinformation around about exactly how much/how cheap importing cars really is.

Unfortunately, it looks like I am going to have to sell my 89 R32 GT-R. I don't actually want to & therefore am trying to leave the decision as late as possible. My question is this: how easy/difficult is it to sell a pretty much stock R32 GTR (89) in good nick. I would have to ask about $25,000. Either that or is anyone in the market for a couple of kidneys, one careful owner.

I am interested in doing some data logging (atleast in some form) of my Grandmother doing laps of the local circuits (OK, its me, I just drive like my Nanna). So far I have only found three half way reasonable solutions, as follows: 3D Gtech: Not cheap at about $700 and appears to be designed mostly for drag racing. It uses accelerometers & integrates results to get speed/distance etc. Unfortunately this won't get you a reliable corner speed readout. Works on a memory card, which is great. FC - Datalogit: This should be able to give you a record of all engine parameters & speed, distance etc (Already have a Power FC). Cheap at $400, but you need to cart your laptop everywhere. Has anyone ever used this for mapping laps? www.innovatemotorsports.com have a nice looking air fuel meter and data logger setup. The Australian agent prices these at $620 for LM-1 and $320 for the LMA-3 expander logging box, which can log 6 parameters at 12 Hz for up to 44 mins, including, a built in 2 axis accelerometer. Still need to lug your laptop and the whole setup looks expensive, but effective. Does anyone have any comments on the above and/or any recommendations?

Thanks for that fellas. Unfortunately I dont have a twin plate clutch, but I do have some lovely fluffy dice. It is not the engine buzzing to the red line as the light sometimes comes on when you back off as well as when you change gears. I'm fairly sure I wasn't pulling 8 grand in fifth.... I will check the thresh hold for the knock sensor, but am pretty confident it will be whatever Apexi set it up for at the factory, which I think is about sixty.

I have an issue with my Power FC showing a knock on gear changes. Normally there is no problem with detonation, the most it will display is maybe 10 on the graph. However when you go for the next gear there is a spike on the display, sufficient sometimes to make the warning light flash. If anyone could help with the following: Is this normal? Is this anything to worry about? Are there settings other than the 20x20 maps that can be adjusted? Should I be looking at the BOV's (Apparently not standard, but plumbed back. In my defence I didn't change them, it came like that) Setup is on an RB26DETT with 13lb boost, exhaust & not much more. Any help would be appreciated

The rev axis is in 400rpm increments from 400 rpm to 8000rpm. The load axis is the MAP sensor input, you should be able to line this up with your boost gauge.

Can anyone recommend one or the other of the the following brands of cam gears for an RB26. Apexi. Trust. Tomei. HKS.

You automatically subtract either 10 or 12MHz from FM station's call ID's. You believe the collective noun for HSV owners is "A pack of arseholes" You don't smoke, but if you did your brand would be Mild Sevens. When asked to name your favourite author, the only people you could think of were Ben Ellis & Martin Donnon. You know what Calsonic actually do. Your benchmark for the latest Monaro is still the DR30 Skyline. You only recently discovered Allan Moffat drove for Ford as well. "Needs more dish" is your opinion of most rims. You are confused when company slogans actually make sense. The major cost in your monthly budget is for having defect notices removed. You think The Fast & the Furious is a good movie. You queued to see the sequel.

You can spot a front mount intercooler from 2kms away. You spend an hour at a party talking to someone you just met about the different versions of the 2JZ-GTE and fail to notice your missus leave. Power oversteer is not the preferred way around a corner, it is the only way. You feel jealous when you see an exhaust larger in diameter than yours. Even if it is on a truck. Your bodykit generates more downforce than Schumacher's Ferrari. The expression "We built with spartan air" not only makes sense, but you know exactly where it comes from. To you designer gear doesn't mean Hugo Boss or Armani, it means Jun, Trust, HKS, Apexi, Blitz, GReddy. You intend naming your firstborn RB26DETT. Boy or girl. Your insurance payments are larger than your mortgage payments. You are deaf from too much exhaust noise, but can hear an external vent blow off valve from 4kms away. You have no idea who won the football on the weekend because you were too busy downloading JGTC lap times. The timing of milestones in your life are remembered by linking them to release dates for Evo Lancers. Your car has more stickers than your bank account has dollars. Reigning champion to you doesn't mean Marcos Ambrose it means Youichi Imamura . You know that four wheel drives can break traction under hard acceleration because you do it daily. You think the terms "significant other" and "emotional attachment" refer to your car. You have more gauges in your glove box than most people have in their cars. Despite the fact yours in the only car within 100 metres, you fold the wing mirrors in when you park up at the shops. You don't know how much it costs to post a letter, but all air freight charges ex Japan are committed to memory. Your last relationship broke up after a nasty argument as to whether a Sileighty was better than a Onevia. You think of someone as stupid because they don't know the difference between a series 7 & a series 8 RX-7. Your vote in the next election will be solely determined by who is promoting the least restrictive import regulations. You don't just have a preferred mechanic, but a preferred wrecking yard, parts importer, vehicle compliance centre, insurance broker... Your living room is painted prodrive blue. The furnishings are gold. You support Brad Jones because he once drove at Bathurst in a Starion..