djr81

If you hook out the restrictor buy yourself a cheap (<$100) mechanical bleed valve and you can then set the boost at whatever level you like. 14lb or less is fine for a GT-R. The real reason the restrictor is in the line is to get the car under the 280PS limitation in Japan. Why else do you think they make it so easy? Mine has been running on just over 13lb for a couple of years & is fine. The stock ECU's run seriously fat on fuel - you won't lean the motor out. As an aside - don't place too much faith in the boys from Speed magazine. IMHO, their understanding is fairly shallow.

Unfortunately the wires (all 11 of them) are different colours. I did the same thing & managed to wire it up in such a way that it drains my battery in about 3 days. Anyway, the four wires to the speakers you should be able to figure out at the speaker end. To determine the stero end you may need to pull the head unit out & have a look at the back. The two blue wires are power wires (I think) so blank these off. The other one (black/red?) I don't know what it is.

Paul, Please get in contact if/when you have organised things as I would like one too. Cheers Richard

I made a bracket up & bolted the extinguisher to the front of the drivers seat rail. Means you can't move the seat forward, but as I don't share the car with anyone - who cares. When you buy your extinguisher get one with a metal bracket (Mine is a Quell) & also have a look at the date stamped on the handle - go through the boxes & find the most recent.

Try www.alldayperformance.com.au for the Garrett's. They have the GT25-60 listed at $1,595ea.

Dyno's charts are done in either 3rd or4th gear which is 21.9km/h per 1000rpm & 28.5 km/h per 1000rpm respectively.

You may find the cause is the glut of 89/90 MY cars finding their way through the system. Secondly, with regard to R33's there are many SEVS workshops who have used them for their first import types, thus bringing the numbers up.

I am not 100% on this, but I believe that only cars imported under the 15 year rule still retain their Japanese seatbelts.

Tom, The oil filter is a pain to remove. You will end up spilling most of its contents on the engine/diff/ground. Clean the filter with a cloth & clean your hands first. Move the hoses etc out the way first & the unscrew it & pull it out. You will need to tilt it over & spin it a bit to get it. When you replace it, remember to smear a small amount of oil on the rubber seal & whatever you do DON"T DO IT UP TOO TIGHT. Tip almost all the of the contents of a five litre container in, ie over fill it some what. This will stop the oil surge that can kill RB26's.

You won't find a build date on the car. Get the build number & details from the blue build plate & get someone to plug it into the PASS software. The last of the GT-R's will have a BNR3XXXXX (My 94 Gt-R has a three hundred thousand build number) where as an 89 model will read something like BN001XXX (ie in the thousands) Depending on the scheme the car was imported under will determine whether or not is has a second compliance plate. An 89 model imported under the 15 year rule will only have the blue plate from Nissan. An R32 bought in under the old import scheme wil have an additional green plate that should have the build date on it. I am not sure what the story is with the new scheme, but you are unlikely to see a SEVS R32 GT-R yet.

For what it is worth (Probably not much) I overlayed the dyno charts from PNBlights R33 (with 0.6 A/R comp Garrett GT25-60's plus other goodies), itbmils (with 0.42 A/R R34 N1's) & my R32 running stock turbos & 13lb. Hopefully gives an idea of the gains for the various set ups.

Attached is an old dyno chart published in HPI comparing a HKS 24030 with a 25-40. Not sure what you are after, but the 25-30 wins my vote. The turbos were fitted to an R33 Gt-R

rossco, One of the joys (not) of an 89 GT-R is the randomness of warning lights. Check your power steering fluid levels (top it right up anyway). Also when the warning light comes on, go and have a look at the module in the boot. With the engine on there should be a flashing light. It will flash anything up to twenty something times & then briefly pause. Count the number of flashes & compare with the diagnostics in the manual. I will try & dig the page out if you don't have it. Usually turning the car off/on again makes the light go away.

Hey Rezz, any chance of posting some hi res versions of the article/brochure up in you photos section?

You will have to find the part number & then do a search on the net to match it up. It will be on the bearing housing.

Your best bet is to take your Father in law to the track so that he can see for himself how safe the events are. Having raced before he should understand, but back in the day things were alot more dangerous. This worked for me with my family.

Something to be mindful of, rather than afraid of. Depending on the dyno, 260awkW is about 360rwhp which is conservative for A turbos. The Group A turbos are designed for relatively high pressure ratios - just that they are not the most efficient things going around.

Francisco, There is a difference between the pressure ratio at the turbo compressor & the Manifold pressure (ie MAP) as seen by your ECU. The pressure ratio equals (atmospheric pressure + boost) divided by the pressure at the turbo inlet. Obviously there will be a pressure drop through the induction box (say 1 or 2 pounds) & a pumping loss across the intercooler (maybe the same again). Hence a PR of 2.5 at the turbo may be as low as 1 bar at the gauge. Hope that makes sense. For hp, approx 10lbs/min of airflow will give you 100hp. (At the flywheel & a bit approximate). With two turbos, 30lb/s of airflow each will give 600hp. To achieve these flow rates you may then pressure ratios higher than the 2.6 which is the upper limit for the 66% efficiency island. The end result is that the inlet temp to the cooler on a warm day will be well above 100 degrees! If, for the sake of the argument we use the following: PR from turbo is 2.5. Compressor Efficiency is 66% Ambient air temp is 27 degrees. This gives a turbo outlet temp of 133 degrees. If we assume a 75% intercooler efficiency when then get a temperature at the throttle body of 53 degrees. However, with the addition of some heat soak into the system it is quite possible to see an air temperature into the motor of some 60 degrees. Fairly warm & it only gets worse on a hot day...

Rev210, With the group A turbos you need to be aware that the relatively low efficiency of the compressor will give you a higher inlet temperature to you intercooler - ie have a think about the cooler. If you use 25lb/min airflow & a pressure ratio of 2 as an example the temperature at the intercooler inlet will be almost ten degrees higher when using the group A turbos than when using the N1 turbos. Have a look at the attached graph. It is a log of temperatures from my mates RX-7 when he is giving the thing a bootfull. Blue is at the air filter Pink is after the turbo yellow is after the intercooler cyan (Aqua) is at the throttle body Note that the cooler is a cheap chinese type, but nonetheless has an efficiency of 71% Note also the effects of heat soak. at the end of the run there is an idle period. Note way the air filter temps rise when the car is sitting still, eg at the start of a hillclimb. This is the downside of having pod filters with no external air feed.

No worries Rossco. Is the a quick answer to what Danny is doing about parts imports? Is it a one off, or something he does for customers? Might be interested in some N1 turbos myself.

Um, ok. Didn't realise Danny was into importing bits. There are three types of R34 N1's at the last count & these even come with different compressor A/R's. Part numbers are 14411-AA401 to 403. Some day someone will win a Pullitzer prize for being able to coherently explain all the different types of N1 turbos. My R32 is in his work shop presently, you may have seen it. Unfortunately I haven't (Yet) - but I will get to Perth one day.

Nice ride Rossco. Can I ask who did the compliance on it? BTW, if you are going to R34N1's can you tell us which size & which series you got. In any case they will take more than 1 bar.....

Numbes vary, but 10lb/min of airflow gives approx 100hp at the flywheel. The pressure ratio is pretty self explanatory. For costings, take a look at the for sale section & any number of the vendors on the site.

No, see the maps. There is a big difference. Having said that the A/R ratios for both the compressor & turbine housings are the same as for the larger of the N1 turbos, ie 0.6 & 0.64. I have never seen maps for he two different N1 compressor arrangements, ie 0.42 & 0.6 A/R. So I can't be 100% sure as to which compressor set up the map is for - although being an R33 N1 it is probably 0.42. Is there anyone with any maps for any of the common Skyline turbos? If so please post em.

Yes, that is correct. Get it done on a dyno, because results vary from car to car depending on the tune and/or setup. The +2/-4 degrees gives you a good idea on where to start looking.