djr81

Attached is an old dyno chart published in HPI comparing a HKS 24030 with a 25-40. Not sure what you are after, but the 25-30 wins my vote. The turbos were fitted to an R33 Gt-R

rossco, One of the joys (not) of an 89 GT-R is the randomness of warning lights. Check your power steering fluid levels (top it right up anyway). Also when the warning light comes on, go and have a look at the module in the boot. With the engine on there should be a flashing light. It will flash anything up to twenty something times & then briefly pause. Count the number of flashes & compare with the diagnostics in the manual. I will try & dig the page out if you don't have it. Usually turning the car off/on again makes the light go away.

Hey Rezz, any chance of posting some hi res versions of the article/brochure up in you photos section?

You will have to find the part number & then do a search on the net to match it up. It will be on the bearing housing.

Your best bet is to take your Father in law to the track so that he can see for himself how safe the events are. Having raced before he should understand, but back in the day things were alot more dangerous. This worked for me with my family.

Something to be mindful of, rather than afraid of. Depending on the dyno, 260awkW is about 360rwhp which is conservative for A turbos. The Group A turbos are designed for relatively high pressure ratios - just that they are not the most efficient things going around.

Francisco, There is a difference between the pressure ratio at the turbo compressor & the Manifold pressure (ie MAP) as seen by your ECU. The pressure ratio equals (atmospheric pressure + boost) divided by the pressure at the turbo inlet. Obviously there will be a pressure drop through the induction box (say 1 or 2 pounds) & a pumping loss across the intercooler (maybe the same again). Hence a PR of 2.5 at the turbo may be as low as 1 bar at the gauge. Hope that makes sense. For hp, approx 10lbs/min of airflow will give you 100hp. (At the flywheel & a bit approximate). With two turbos, 30lb/s of airflow each will give 600hp. To achieve these flow rates you may then pressure ratios higher than the 2.6 which is the upper limit for the 66% efficiency island. The end result is that the inlet temp to the cooler on a warm day will be well above 100 degrees! If, for the sake of the argument we use the following: PR from turbo is 2.5. Compressor Efficiency is 66% Ambient air temp is 27 degrees. This gives a turbo outlet temp of 133 degrees. If we assume a 75% intercooler efficiency when then get a temperature at the throttle body of 53 degrees. However, with the addition of some heat soak into the system it is quite possible to see an air temperature into the motor of some 60 degrees. Fairly warm & it only gets worse on a hot day...

Rev210, With the group A turbos you need to be aware that the relatively low efficiency of the compressor will give you a higher inlet temperature to you intercooler - ie have a think about the cooler. If you use 25lb/min airflow & a pressure ratio of 2 as an example the temperature at the intercooler inlet will be almost ten degrees higher when using the group A turbos than when using the N1 turbos. Have a look at the attached graph. It is a log of temperatures from my mates RX-7 when he is giving the thing a bootfull. Blue is at the air filter Pink is after the turbo yellow is after the intercooler cyan (Aqua) is at the throttle body Note that the cooler is a cheap chinese type, but nonetheless has an efficiency of 71% Note also the effects of heat soak. at the end of the run there is an idle period. Note way the air filter temps rise when the car is sitting still, eg at the start of a hillclimb. This is the downside of having pod filters with no external air feed.

No worries Rossco. Is the a quick answer to what Danny is doing about parts imports? Is it a one off, or something he does for customers? Might be interested in some N1 turbos myself.

Um, ok. Didn't realise Danny was into importing bits. There are three types of R34 N1's at the last count & these even come with different compressor A/R's. Part numbers are 14411-AA401 to 403. Some day someone will win a Pullitzer prize for being able to coherently explain all the different types of N1 turbos. My R32 is in his work shop presently, you may have seen it. Unfortunately I haven't (Yet) - but I will get to Perth one day.

Nice ride Rossco. Can I ask who did the compliance on it? BTW, if you are going to R34N1's can you tell us which size & which series you got. In any case they will take more than 1 bar.....

Numbes vary, but 10lb/min of airflow gives approx 100hp at the flywheel. The pressure ratio is pretty self explanatory. For costings, take a look at the for sale section & any number of the vendors on the site.

No, see the maps. There is a big difference. Having said that the A/R ratios for both the compressor & turbine housings are the same as for the larger of the N1 turbos, ie 0.6 & 0.64. I have never seen maps for he two different N1 compressor arrangements, ie 0.42 & 0.6 A/R. So I can't be 100% sure as to which compressor set up the map is for - although being an R33 N1 it is probably 0.42. Is there anyone with any maps for any of the common Skyline turbos? If so please post em.

Yes, that is correct. Get it done on a dyno, because results vary from car to car depending on the tune and/or setup. The +2/-4 degrees gives you a good idea on where to start looking.

Other way around. Most people have had success with about two degrees advance on the inlet & four degrees retard on the exhaust, but it varies from car to car. What you are going to be doing is increasing the cam overlaps - something Nissan couldn't do because of the emissions problems this gives. 1 degree on the cam is two degrees on the crank. Measure everything in crank degrees & don't forget to compensate with the ignition timing when you are done.

Daniel, I have a RR model GTech. I would strongly recommend this model over the SS. It will do all that the SS can do plus will handle data logging on the circuit. The RR will record two hours worth of data at a logging rate of 20Hz which includes rpm, lateral & longitudinal gees & can then be downloaded to your PC. So it is a great data logger for a track day. Also the RR will record quarter mile times, 0 - 100, acceleration & braking gees for when you want to practice launches, check the efficacy of engine mods or even measure your braking efforts. I can't recommend these things highly enough. Have a look at my photos thing on the left for some screen dumps of some laps around Wanneroo short circuit. (Gtech is on the windscreen) Unfortunately the installation wasn't quite right & the data is upside down (ie left is really right & braking is really acceleration). But you can see how the thing works. You can overlay your laptimes & if you lend you Gtech to your mates you can compare the cars various strengths & weaknesses. I got mine on Ebay & paid < $500. Go get one, they are unreal. :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

Quick question: What is a reasonable price for a 94 R32 Gt-R complied under the SEVS scheme. The car in question has 81,000kms (Log booked) & is said to be in immaculate condition. I am trying to get an idea of the price before I go and look at it. I understand they carry a premium over the 89 models, so I was wondering how much.

Had a look and discovered that all was left was the resonator & the front air duct. You are welcome to them if you want em, but really they are only half of what you need.

Booster, I have some bits from the airbox at home. If you can post up which of the airbox pieces you want I may be able to help out.

Since beginning of 2004 Nothing of note. Is a much easier car to own/drive than I had been led to believe. Oh yeah & it came with the world's gheyest pair of rear speakers. Engine is in very good condition. You should expect to pay about $25k for a good one. Perhaps more depending on what extras it has. Perhaps less is it is a ordinary example or is uregistered. Later models 92/93 are not so common & the seller will expect a premium. If it has been imported under the old rules inspect it for damage to the chassis and/or a general bodge fest. The best advice I can offer is: Buy a good one, not a cheap one.

Don't get too hung up about brake pads. How you modulate your braking effort (ie how hard you push) & how well you heel and toe down change will determine how effective you braking is - much more so that the last little bit of friction coefficient on the brake pads. In any case I struggle to get more than one gee out of the brakes of my R32 GT-R. This means I usually get hosed by such cars as Westfield 7's or early series RX-7 which can crack 1.2 gees with relative ease.

If you are ordering some pads from RaceBrakes make sure you tell them you are a member of a car club (eg WASCC) & you will get a 10% discount or thereabouts. Also, it pays to order them a bit before you need them. Racebrakes seem to have problems getting the backing plates for the pads & hence you sometimes have to wait. They will sell you a Toyota pad modified to fit a GT-R, which works fine.

More of a risk than, say, importing one from Japan?

I am running DBA 4000 series rotors & RB74 pads on my R32 Gt-R. They are good for both street & track use. Be aware that they will start to squeal if you haven't given them a pasting for a while. The rotors come with thermographic paint on them. The paint on mine have flashed off which indicated temperatures above the 600 degree mark (From memory) The brakes still worked well at those temps, however the hotter they get the more pad wear you get. Make sure you warm them up & cool them down properly. Rotors stand up well to the pads. If you do some track days you pads wont last anything like 40,000 kms. Mine are set for the bin after about 5,000kms. If you just want them for road use, you may be better with something other than RB74's. Also, use some Motul RBF600 fluid with them. No point having flash pads if the brake fluid is boiling its arse off.

The double sided tape works well. You wont have any problems with clowns trying to remove anything. There are also various types of glue the panel shops use to attach spoilers and/or various add ons.