djr81

If you just want the lip spoiler they can be bought without the cutouts that fit the wing - ie with a straight leading edge instead of one with notches in it.

For my 10 cents worth you are much better off spending your hard earned on a better set of tyres rather than set of larger tyres. The most marked difference will be in the amount of wet weather grip the tyres have - ie grip when you need it most. By and large there are cheap tyres & there are good tyres. If you want a set of 18 inch rims for looks then that is a completely different argument. Remember though, that for an equal quality rim a 17 inch set up will be lighter than an 18 inch. If you end up with a cheap 18 inch rim then it will be much heavier - to the detriment of your ride & handling.

Bump. So far I have only managed a 1.25 gee lateral acceleration & a bit under one gee for braking. Having used the GTech for a couple of events & also lent it to a couple of mates I can confirm they are well worth the $4-500 being asked. So, does anyone want to share any data - specifically for an R32 GT-R.

The workshop you mentioned has (Along with many others) had a huge (& short lived) increase in the volume of work due to the carry on with the 15 year rule. It is calming down somewhat now & the business involved is moving to new, larger premisis. Danny is doing a huge number of hours per week to try and keep up, but there is only so much he can do. It is also worth remembering the RAWS/SEVS compliancing requirements and what you are allowed to get away with in terms of engine mods - ie very little. So a car with alot of mods is going to take longer to comply. I have put two cars through this workshop & am happy with the service & the approach to doing business.

Item is sold.

Duralium is simply a variant of aluminium that has increased wear resistance due to its hardness (As the name suggests). Tomei have used it for ages & now HKS have come into line. If you are worried about wear the answer is pretty simple: LEAVE THE TIMING COVER ON YOUR ENGINE!

Hmmm, might be a bit difficult convincing the govt that it is a legitimate business given its lack of profits any time soon... Of course if you already have a business or are a contractor it would be much easier to integrate your racing with your current business activities & thence write the whole thing off as advertising for the business.

These are a couple of compressor maps published in Zoom a while back purporting to be from an R33 N1 & a "group A" (whatever that is in relation to turbochargers). The A/R for the respective compressors are 0.42 & 0.6 for the group A unit. For the turbines it is 0.48 & 0.64. You can see from the maps that they are markedly different. Can anyone make sense of this lot in particular the following: Is the "Group A" turbo the 0.6 A/R N1 unit? Does anyone have any other compressor maps that might helpmake sense of all this - particularly the Garrett equivalents & the stock turbos?

Hey Pete, are they what you have fitted to your 33?

Have a look in the back of the Auto Action (aka Auto Fiction) magazines for people who do helmet painting. Also, might pay to ask at Revolution as they should know people. The brand of helmet you have will determine what stickers it has attached. My Arai (Japanese) doesn't have an Australian Standard sticker because it doesn't comply. It does, however have a SA2000 compliance & hence a cloth patch stiched into the lining. If you have one, don't remove the Aus standard sticker! There is also another applicable standard, but it doesn't spring to mind presently. What make/model have you got?

Sold - just tying up the details.

Depends which Bendix pads you have. The ultimates don't squeel (just dump dust everywhere) but most pads with metal content will. the only cure is to give them a periodic hammering. Better still, don't use the cheaper of the Bendix pads. (just my humble opinion)

That is about on the money for a standard turbo GT-R. Please understand that results from dyno to dyno vary (yes even the shootout modes etc etc) more so than cars will vary. The important thing is to make sure your A/F ratios are ok on full boost (ie less than 12.5:1 or thereabouts, depending on who you believe) & also that there is a complete absense of pinging from the engine (ie not too much ignition advance). A healthy engine is more important than an extra ten horsepower, so be carefull in pushing stock turbos too hard. In any case there are better ways of judging your RB26's health than a power figure. For what it is worth my R32 spat out 305hp at 13.4psi. So yours is on the money. Have fun & drive carefully.

Still for sale. Thanks to those who have made offers. Everyone wants a bargain... I'll take $520 to get rid of it. Please send a PM.

Brand new Apexi AVC-R. I bought it as part of a planned upgrade & now find myself moving on to plan B. It is still in the box it came in & has never been used. $540 which includes postage. Please send me a PM if you are interested. Richard.

Ben, mate, I honestly don't think that is ever going to be a problem. No one is going to sell a mint GT-R for $20k.

Not sure why so many people get so fired up about 89 model GT-R's, maybe it is because the relatively low prices put them within reach of so many. :headspin: Like most things in life, you cannot generalise too much, however... If you are after one of these things about $25k will get you a goodun. Both mine cost this amount of money and both were at the nicer end of the spectrum. If you are buying an import direct from Japan, you can get it on the road for less, but be prepared to spend $2 to $3k to bring the car up to a good standard. Things like the brakes, suspension bushes & a myriad of minor things will need attending to. Remember the seller is getting rid of their old car whereas you - an enthusiast - are attempting to get hold of something a bit special. So your standards will be higher & you will probably want to fix stuff the previous owner didn't care about too much. If you are buying a GT-R that has been in the country a while, has had these things attended to or perhaps one that is in sufficiently good nic not to need these things - expect to pay a premium anyway. To reiterate, approx $25k is the money. More for one with extras and/or particularly good condition, less for a lesser car. Not 27-30k for something just off the boat by any means - but more than the (low) silly numbers people sometimes quote. Sometimes people get a bargain - good for them. In any case an R-32 GT-R is one of the most awesome cars you will ever own, regardless of the model year. I wish people would see them for the great cars they are, not split hairs about which year they were made in. In closing: Don't let a broker/seller try and force you into a car because the 15 year rule is coming to an end - the are enough GT-R around for you not to be placed in that position. Tired now, must end rant:

There is a scan of a diagram of how to calculate roll centres for MacPherson struts now included in my photo album thing (On the left). It comes from a book by Jeffrey Daniels published by Motor Racing Publications. Unfortunately the book was published in 1988 & I haven't been able to find a copy anywhere. Also added bit about an inclined roll axis.

Steve, You need to be a bit careful with motorsport analogies. They lower F1 & touring cars as much as they can for the aero benefits - mostly more downforce from the front wing/splitter. A lower car has, by definition a lower centre of gravity. If you have free reign in suspension design eg an F1 car this is an excellent starting point. If you don't eg a road car then it is probably best to forget about the c of g & instead concentrate on the roll couple and thence the roll axis. These are the important parameters - the cog is only half the story. Lowering MacPherson struts too far can result in a larger roll couple than prior to modification because of the way the geometry is worked out. I really need to dig out the diagram to explain it properly...

Gee Steve, not sure that the folks at Garrett would like their Gt 25-30 referred to as cheap generic. Particularly given the close link Garret has to other turbo suppliers... My post was meant to refer to the pricing and the inclusions of all the fiddly bits you need to properly bolts the things up. IMHO Garrett 25-30's are a very good thing on an RB26.

Andrew, Please be careful. Not sure who told you that different roll centres front to back is not good, but they are wrong. An inclined roll axis (think of a line drawn along the length of the car between the front & rear roll centres) is one of the most powerful tools that a chassis tuner has. Almost all cars have these to help compensate for poor front to rear weight distribution. By way of an example the rear roll centre on a Watts linkaged live axle car (eg my old Foulcan, or most Lotus 7 clones) is defined by where the linkage picks up on the diff housing. This is what the V8 cars get changed in the pits. Changing the roll centre inclines the roll axis either more or less - depending on what the driver needs. Hope this makes sense.

In short, no.

The differential between the front & rear roll centres will go a long way to determining how the car handles, ie a higher roll couple will give more grip for that particular axle. Most people dial this out by using adjustable anti roll bars, rather than adjusting roll centres. Put simply a stiffer anti roll bar gives less grip.

Most people go with WASCC, which is very definately CAMS affiliated. Not too sure, but there is one in Collie based around the Motorplex down there. They do drift practice days & also have a hand in organising the drift comps at Collie. Have a look at the G-Speed web site. (Bunbury workshop)

How do these compare? http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/cat...ategory12_1.htm