djr81

At the high end, but probably not unfeasable. Try the following to get an idea of what they sell for & then use one of the cost calculators as below. http://auctions.amayama.com www.imports101.com.au Please note, however that the costs shown on the auction report are in USD (& yen) & DO NOT include for transport etc, ie are not the FOB price. Allow approx Y100,000 for this. Should give you an idea.

Give Tarek (RACESPEC) a yell or try his website (http://www.racespec.com.au/). I got my turbos from him at a good price. Have a look in the for sale section under businesses selling stuff. Dont know what Garrett availability is like presently, however.

Garrett GT 28-60's 707160-5 and or 7. $2600 the pair brand new. Search button!!!!!!!!!!

I think you will find they are stock units from an R34.

Gary, A quick question. Which of the grooves do I need to install the circlip into to get the recommended 355mm ride height. I just don't want to have to do it twice. Cheers

I think you mean the RS - just pays to be careful with the nomenclature. The GT28-60R is for the RB26 (You need two for that motor - part number 707160-5 or 7). But have a look at their comparison sheet for the medium sized units. Address should work http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...rison_sheet.htm Then dig out the compressor maps to find out how the airflow matches in with your requirements. Don't just pick a turbo based on it's descirption of 300hp or 500hp or whatever hp.

Danny is good value & will look after you. He hasn't got his workshop SEVS approved for complying R32's yet, so the work will not be done in WA - which doesn't really matter if you are from Victoria anyway. Would pay to ask him who he uses for the compliance work presently. Also, if you check his website yoou should find details of his service guarantees.

Try the Bosch equivalent, much cheaper - mine were less than $300 ea. No plug though. Have alook at the APEEXi pods which come with the correct size filters to match the AFM's & if you select the correct kit you get the plugs with the kit.

Why don't you try one of the Garrett range. They a much, much cheaper than the HKS alterantive and every bit as good in their function and their quality. Try www.turbobygarrett.com for a starter. There are a large number of retailers, a search on this forum will give you a start. There is also an interview with their manager/director in this month issue of Zoom.

Din, Best to pair the caster rods (or bushes) with a camber bush. Reason being that winding in more positive caster will reduce the static camber. If you are out of adjustment on -ve camber you will be simply trading more +ve caster for less -ve camber. In short losing -ve camber at the across the range of steering lock for more -ve camber when lock is applied. (Hope that makes sense) The solution is to use a camber bush as well as the caster rod/bush to get the gains of the increased caster without losing the benefits of -ve camber. Cheers Richard

I use 255/40/17 which seams a fairly common fitment with an R32 GT-R. Looking at a brochure that turned up with my CAMS mag yesterday the 255 tyre is $398 whereas the 275/40/17 is $470. This in a Toyo Proxes RA-1. So I suppose the question is - how much do you want that extra 20mm?

Don't panic!. Get a friend/relative to help. Get them to push down on the release lever in the cabin & whilst they are doing that you poke the fuel cap at the leading edge to open it. What happens is the spring inside the door gets a dose of the sads & will no longer open the door. So you have to bend the spring about a bit to get it to work again.

Couple of questions: Why so much toe in at the rear? Less toe in will make the car more neutral (All else being equal) What ride heights are you running front & rear?

In short, no. There is a degree of adjustability already available (out to about 1.25 degrees negative), however camber adjustment beyond the factory ranges is usually done using offset bushes rather than the actual wishbones. Try Whiteline suspensions.

Fellas - as my Grandmother used to say - ITS NICE TO BE NICE - so be nice (please). Please be careful throwing around numbers. Remember that the original request was for road suspension with occassional track use. Anyone here volunteering to use 7 or even 4 degrees neg camber on the road? Track suspension castor/camber/toe settings will always be more extreme than those for the road. What works on one track may be hopeless on another - the same can be said for cars and drivers and tyres and weather conditions and spring rates and sway bar settings and a whole heap of other things.

Don't panic. What the workshops mean by saying they have "done all the things" is that they have sent DOTARS all the evidence packs & the other guff they need. It doesn't mean they have actually finished modifying your car. Same thing happened to me. The wait for DOTARS is interminable - that will be the source of the delay, not so much the workshop. Couple of questions: When did the shop submit the evidence pack? When is your inspection date?

I have been trying to set my car up with the Whiteline swaybars & near standard springs & not having much success. In saying that they are great for the road, but not so great on the track. There are alot (ALOT) of variables on how the car behaves & indeed on how you want it to behave. So have a think about the type of handling characteristics you are chasing. Also the spring rates listed are high - they are much more track orientated than for the street. Stock springs are about 1/3rd the rates you have. Even the Whiteline gear is less than half (About 3.5kg/mm for an R32 GT-R - slightly higher at the front, lower at the rear.) Springs/dampers/sway bars are all interrelated & to be honest I doubt you will have a huge amount of success running the 10 & 7kg/mm springs.

The ATTESSA system can be disabled by pulling a fuse. Symptons of its failure are that there is little or no torque transfer forward - despite what the gauge is telling you. Mostly this will give you bulk oversteer - you should be able to feel the front wheels pulling the car back into line if the system is fully operational. Unless you have a serious lack of rear end grip you won't be getting wheelspin in third or even fourth in a straight line. Which suggests clutch. To allay you fears about the ATTESSA system, get a mate to drive alonside & keep a lookout for wheelspin.

The cops are always out to prove they are Nazis at Rally Oz & infact at any motorsport event. They set up at the 40km/h school zone at Harvey at 2.00pm & also out the back of Dwellingup. Shame they don't think to put any effort in to helping anyone.. Anyway, got some shots from the Friday - anyone else get any good ones?

SK - you have a pm.

Not sure if I mentioned what dampers the thing is presently running... To be honest the sway bars are a new addition. I have found that the traction difficiency (such as it is) has, if anything, been lessened by the stiffer sway bars. I can dig up the data logger info to support this, but it will have to wait until another run at Wanneroo for a definitive answer. The last time at Collie the track was filthy, so it was hard to be 100% sure - but it did feel better & looked better on the traces. For the record the sway bar combination is BNF27Z front & BNR26XZ rear and has reduced the steady state understeer. Yes it feels taily on turn in - but I can live with this until the HICAS is cancelled. I believe the better traction is because of less body roll which in turn compensates for the otherwise unhelpful lateral spring load transfer of the sway bars. Also, from following other R32's around the track they commonly buzz the inside rear out of slow corners. The reason I asked the question is that the Nissan manual has the rear spring rates higher than the front. This goes against what I understood would be the case (Particularly given the horrible weight distribution in the R32 GT-R). My springs (Both front and rear) are 25% higher than the stock Nissan units - the windings appear the same - just the wire diameter has increased. All of the aftermarket springs on offer from Japan seem to have the front springs stiffer than the rears - which makes sense to me. I do understand the function of the dampers in maintaining surface contact for the tyres - but it was the springs I was asking after. What I was trying to do is to get some understanding of the apparent discrepency between the rates quoted in the good book & those chosen by aftermarket suppliers. By the way the Tein coilovers have 30% larger diameter dampers & are adjustable - not Bilsteins to be sure, but then again they won't cost me Bilstein money. SK - can you tell us what the rates are for the Whiteline GT-R springs on offer? Some of the frustration I have is that the whole world believes that GT-R's oversteer. Mine used to on road tyres, but won't on R compounds. Perhaps it is insufficient power - but in any case understeer + wheelspin isn't the quickest way around the track. I am trying to work towards a more stable turn in & a lower propensity to heavy understeer in the tight stuff & to be honest I am having trouble getting my head around the springs. Maybe I will have to wait until after the HICAS is gone & the castor rodes are installed.

I suppose if I had to try & characterise the handling it would be as follows: Stable state: Understeer Turn in: feels slightly taily (HICAS?). Power on: Wheel spin + understeer For example there is a largish (3rd gear) chicane on the main straight at Collie. Steering input in the first half is less than in the second. I cannot get mid corner oversteer for love nor money, but get wheel spin on corner exit. I am a bit reluctant to introduce more rear roll stiffness as this will degrade the rear grip & make it even more twitchy on turn in. Most of the loses/half loses I have is on turn in with the car wanting to swap ends. Braking & turning in at the same time is a complete other world. As for toe in I run very little on the front, but approx 1mm total on the rear I have had more rear toe in, but then it tram lines like a bitch on the road. My gut feel is to fix the HICAS & then worry about the springs. I just can't reconcile the spring rates with the needed (ie more neutral) handling characteristics.

I have an old R32 GT-R to which I have fitted some Whiteline HD adjustable sway bars & approx 25% harder springs than standard, albeit on stock ride height. Next step (after the HICAS is gone & the cradle mounts fixed up) is some springs/shockers. The current spring rates are about: Front 2.4 + 25% = 3kg/mm (2.4 is stock rate from the manual) Rear. 2.7 + 25% = 3.38kg/mm (2.7 is stock rate from the manual) I have access to some Tein comfort spec coilovers which are supposed to be: Front: 5 kg/mm Rear: 4 kg/mm Presently with the sway bars in and both on their softest settings - the car feels a little taily on turn in - something I put down to the HICAS. However, the predominant handling characteristic is still understeer - which will hopefully be reduced with new castor rods next Wednesday. From what I understand going to a higher rate front spring (relative to the rears) will make the thing understeer even more. However all the aftermarket springs on offer ex Japan (not sure about the Whiteline offerings) use a harder front spring than rear. Other than fiddling with roll centre differentials front/rear and/or tyre pressures is there a straight forward means to reduce this understeer?

Mik, Remember that the oil from the oil pump has more than one option - it goes into the motor as well as the turbo. Fitting a flow restrictor on the turbo will not change the pressure upstream worth a damn but will reduce the flow and hence pressure downstream - ie in the bearings and around the seals where it counts.

Disadvantages are threefold: 1. It's going to cost you more. 2. It is going to weigh more in the exact location that GT-R's don't need more weight. 3. It is going to take longer for the car to get up to working temperature - more engine wear. Also, I understand that much above 40mm thick is difficult to install without moving shrouds etc. Just don;t quote me on that.