djr81

Precisely. The explanation came from the original R32 GT-R test drives done by both Wheels & by Car magazine. The description in Wheels is as follows: "Nissan's sophisticated Super HICAS system works in two distinct steps; initially in reverse phase (with the rear wheels turning through a small arc in the opposite direction to the front) before moving to the parallel phase." Car was a bitmore effusive: "The rear wheels counter-steer to help the Skyline turn into the corner, and then steer in the same direction as the fronts, to help stability.... At high speed, though, the maximum movement is approximately 0.3 degrees" Unfortunately neither nominate a speed at which the system works/stops working. From what I understand it changes phases, ie from counter steer to same phase when you get on the accelerator. The reason that some people say it makes the car's handling more unpredicatble is that when you turn the car into a corner you need to differentiate between the HICAS working and the back end losing grip & starting to slide. Sometimes that is not so easy. Disabling the HICAS means when you feel the back end getting loose you are running out of grip. Having said that everything it does after turn in, in my humble opinion, is all good.

Best bet is to give the workshop a ring and/or go and see them. Most shops that deal with the public have a website, so check that too. As for the models of Soarers they can comply it will really depend on what they have applied for. Again, easiest thing is to ring & ask.

I use RBF600 all the time, so I find 500ml enough. Each to there own, another $25 shouldn't kill anyone. Yeah the 600 degrees is in fahrenheit, not celcius, but still better than dot 5 fluids. We usually are restricted to three laps at a go (Plus warmup lap & cool down) and at the end of the main straight at Wanneroo my brakes are feeling the pain on the last lap. Usually the third flyer is slower than the other two because the brake friction coefficient is heading south. Having said that I only use RB74 pad's at the moment on stock calipers/rotors. Speedevent series gives us four sets of laps plus a warmup & if you are lucky a discretionary run in the arvo.

If you don't yet have a cooler it pays to keep an eye on the oil temp gauge. Mostly your brakes start fading before the oil gets too hot. I have had the HICAS connected on the track & also a lock kit installed. Either way the car is driveable. The difference I found was mostly a confidence thing. Having the rear opposite phase steer on turn in freaked me out a little & I did find that with it removed the car felt more predictable. So it is a preference thing. As for understeer, well I found it split into two halves. On the turn in phase the HICAS reduced the understeer, but on corner exit it increased it. Just like it is supposed to. Anyway the Nissan blokes knew a thing or two about car set up - so you can be confident you will have bundles of fun on the track with a stock suspension set up - HICAS & all. As for licenses - go to the CAMS web site & find yourself the paper work for a level 2S. In conjunction with a club membership this is pretty much all you need. Cost is (from memory) less than $100 a year.

Well you can be assured that there are plenty of R32's around, so have fun finding one. Buy a good one, not a cheap one.

You may need to do some further research. You can no longer import an R32 under the 15 year rule - hence can't do the compliance yourself. It will need to be imported under the SEVS?RAWS scheme & good luck finding a workshop for that. As for the Soarer it needs to be 1988 or older, otherwise it is SEVS/RAWS. The problem with importing yourself is that some of the SEVS?RAWS workshops don't want to know you.

I use MOTUL RBF 600 which is a dot 4 fluid with a high (600 degree) boiling point. It costs about $25 for 500ml which is enough for a change. Your pads will give up before the fluid will. Have agood think about your pads too. The rears will be fine, but the fronts will hate you for what you are doing. Just make sure you let everything cool down before you go out again.... Oh, yeah - you will make a right mess of your tyres on the track too.

If you are after an R32 there are plenty of good ones around. Don't be put off by the "all '89's are crap" brigade as this is patently false. Having said that my '94 model (For sale too!) is set up as a daily driver - most GT-R's have had modifications done to them that makes them less liveable on a day to day basis. If you choose one that is unmolested then you will be happy with it day to day.

The problem only arises when people don't put enough oil in the motor. Sounds simple, but oil surge has killed many an RB26. When you change the oil tip the whole of the 5L container into the sump, ie overfill it by about 1 litre - this will fix the problem. As for a baffle kit - you don't really need one. I have done many track days in my car & never had a problem. As for the oil pump - again - no you don't need one. If however you do upgrade the pump it should be matched with a restrictor kit to stop all the oil being pumped into the cam shaft covers. You may want to consider an oil catch can, however.

Gearing for an R32 GT-R is as follows (all in km/h per 1000rpm) 1st 8.9 2nd 14.8 3rd 21.9 4th 28.5 5th 40 There is an old Wheels magazine around with a test which produced a terminal velocity for a stock GT-R at around 250km/h (from memory). But don't try it at home, kids.

Andreas, Did you talk to Danny? From what I understand there are only two or three RAWS for R32's presently. So finding one is difficult. I know Imports101 has had several complied over east, just not sure where. They themselves aren't too far away from being able to offer compliance out their own shop in WA. Cheers Richard

At the high end, but probably not unfeasable. Try the following to get an idea of what they sell for & then use one of the cost calculators as below. http://auctions.amayama.com www.imports101.com.au Please note, however that the costs shown on the auction report are in USD (& yen) & DO NOT include for transport etc, ie are not the FOB price. Allow approx Y100,000 for this. Should give you an idea.

Give Tarek (RACESPEC) a yell or try his website (http://www.racespec.com.au/). I got my turbos from him at a good price. Have a look in the for sale section under businesses selling stuff. Dont know what Garrett availability is like presently, however.

Garrett GT 28-60's 707160-5 and or 7. $2600 the pair brand new. Search button!!!!!!!!!!

I think you will find they are stock units from an R34.

Gary, A quick question. Which of the grooves do I need to install the circlip into to get the recommended 355mm ride height. I just don't want to have to do it twice. Cheers

I think you mean the RS - just pays to be careful with the nomenclature. The GT28-60R is for the RB26 (You need two for that motor - part number 707160-5 or 7). But have a look at their comparison sheet for the medium sized units. Address should work http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...rison_sheet.htm Then dig out the compressor maps to find out how the airflow matches in with your requirements. Don't just pick a turbo based on it's descirption of 300hp or 500hp or whatever hp.

Danny is good value & will look after you. He hasn't got his workshop SEVS approved for complying R32's yet, so the work will not be done in WA - which doesn't really matter if you are from Victoria anyway. Would pay to ask him who he uses for the compliance work presently. Also, if you check his website yoou should find details of his service guarantees.

Try the Bosch equivalent, much cheaper - mine were less than $300 ea. No plug though. Have alook at the APEEXi pods which come with the correct size filters to match the AFM's & if you select the correct kit you get the plugs with the kit.

Why don't you try one of the Garrett range. They a much, much cheaper than the HKS alterantive and every bit as good in their function and their quality. Try www.turbobygarrett.com for a starter. There are a large number of retailers, a search on this forum will give you a start. There is also an interview with their manager/director in this month issue of Zoom.

Din, Best to pair the caster rods (or bushes) with a camber bush. Reason being that winding in more positive caster will reduce the static camber. If you are out of adjustment on -ve camber you will be simply trading more +ve caster for less -ve camber. In short losing -ve camber at the across the range of steering lock for more -ve camber when lock is applied. (Hope that makes sense) The solution is to use a camber bush as well as the caster rod/bush to get the gains of the increased caster without losing the benefits of -ve camber. Cheers Richard

I use 255/40/17 which seams a fairly common fitment with an R32 GT-R. Looking at a brochure that turned up with my CAMS mag yesterday the 255 tyre is $398 whereas the 275/40/17 is $470. This in a Toyo Proxes RA-1. So I suppose the question is - how much do you want that extra 20mm?

Don't panic!. Get a friend/relative to help. Get them to push down on the release lever in the cabin & whilst they are doing that you poke the fuel cap at the leading edge to open it. What happens is the spring inside the door gets a dose of the sads & will no longer open the door. So you have to bend the spring about a bit to get it to work again.

Couple of questions: Why so much toe in at the rear? Less toe in will make the car more neutral (All else being equal) What ride heights are you running front & rear?

In short, no. There is a degree of adjustability already available (out to about 1.25 degrees negative), however camber adjustment beyond the factory ranges is usually done using offset bushes rather than the actual wishbones. Try Whiteline suspensions.