Moodles2

With my R32 GTR, whenever I go over a little pothole, my torque split guage reads exactly 10% at the front wheels for afew seconds, then goes back to normal. Is this normal behaviour, or a loose connection somewhere?

I'm just trying to understand the variables at the bottom of my dyno sheet done on a Dyno Dynamic's dyno in shootout mode (I've just done educated guesses): BP is barometric pressure (what does 100 mean) RH is relative humidity (in percent?) AT is ambient temperature (most likely celcius) IT is inlet temperature (at the airbox?) RR is rpm:road speed ratio ("015" not sure what this means) TN i've been unable to guess (3.454 = ?, I thought maybe final diff ratio, but R32 GTR's is 4.111) CK is ? (343)

What RPM do you get full boost at? Might be able to do an educated guess.

So far the cheapest I've seen for ADR approved braided lines was BrakeWest, who quoted me $250 + $15 delivery

What value did you use as rpm calibration? I think I had to use 4 solid lights (or was it 4 blinking lights)

Where is the pressure source that feeds the digital boost gauge? I've read in some cases T'ing off at the stock boost gauge (black box on the firewall) is somewhat laggy.

The stock boost actuator, the Nissan bit that says PCM something on it. Between the battery and drivers side tower strut. Where on the intake manifold are you running the hose from into the solenoid, the vacuum source could be the problem. If you need I could get my camera and take a picture of the intake vacuum source i use with my MS-IBC

The power loss at 4500rpm is pretty common: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

Try playing with Spike Stop. Just make sure the solenoid is away from heat sources such as either manifold and intercooler. My solenoid is mounted to the left of my stock actuator, just make sure the unused port is facing down. The boost spiking could possibly be a intake manifold leak. Email Ray directly and see if he can help. I had trouble with my solenoid, and had to send it back (solenoid was completely dead, wouldnt respond to duty cycle or gain instructions from the controller)

14.4volts while engine is running, or 12v when the engine is running?

Here in SA, i've heard at Regency if they find braided brake lines without a ADR approved sticker they won't pass it.

Yes quite normal, search the forum on how to fit this.

I wired my Shift-I at my ECU loom, tacho, ignition switch (so I could use it's voltage indicator feature).

It's a question out of curiosity, how far can the rb30 be stroked out to (like how the rb26 strokes out to 2.8l)?

Check that you don't have it on backwards, and is the stock restrictor still in the hose (usually indicated by a yellow band)

Find a good workshop that deal with skylines (Check the States forum) in your state and take the car there and explain your situation (get compression test done, check spark plugs, clean AFM etc). How much was the boost wound up to when you brought it, and does your car have an aftermarket ECU or some sort of thing like a SAFC to deal with A/F ratios? I would start by putting the ECU in diagnostic mode and find any error codes (PDF service manual is all the internet) and start from there. To me it sounds like your turbo lost it's compressor wheel (quite common for ceramic type wheels to let go when boost is wounded high)

What filter are you using with the relocator, Z145a etc? Might be worth putting as much oil as you can fit into the lines, and remove the CAS and crank it to get pressure up.

Is the round fitting needed for the R32 GTR (non-brembo) ?

How often do you recommend draining the lines and core, every 10-15 maybe 20 thousand kms?

I don't drain my oil out of my lines + oil cooler core, just drop the sump plug

B&M used to make a nice cheap relocator kit, was about $110 but seems they dont make it anymore (or any left in Australia).

There are, check nengun for exact dates, i believe the early ones are 89-91 and the later are 91-94

3l wont even register on the dipstick

There's a groupbuy for Arospeed cam gears on here, might want to look into that.

Put the oil filter relocator wherever it's most convenient, mounting it pointing up can be alittle messy when the filter comes off. If you are worried about pressure try a smaller oil filter like the Z445 (edit: seems the thread is different than the Z145a) I think it is, instead of the Z145a