Moodles2

If you want proper electronic boost control, the cheapest option is try the Gizzmo MS-IBC, overkill for what you want though it's pretty good for $300 (sometimes I see it down to $250)

If you do your timing belt you may as well do the tensioners etc while your there, you can get away with slipping the stockers off the belt and slipping the replacement aftermarkets on

I actually prefer the look of the old style. Greenline.jp has the new Expreme pipes for just under $700 (not including delivery)

I've searched through threads with FM expanders but have come to these conclusions: that the 18mhz expanders are the only ones worth getting, the Aerpro products are shite with poor reception, crackly and for some reason miss alot of radio stations. Any recommendations?

Do the cheap things first, put a new valve in and throw away the current cap and put a new one on

The Nitto oil pumps are supposed to be as good as the jun/tomei pumps but alot cheaper

Could it be coming from the passenger door speaker? it could be "alternator whine" being absorbed your sound system: http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

You can use any brand adj. cam gear for any camshaft, you could run one brands intake cam gear and another brands exhaust cam gear

I think I saw that HKS pipe on justjap before, was 1299 iirc

old and new style: the new ones ID is 68mm according to: http://www.tomeiusa.com/recentmail.asp?mid=106

The old Tomei are 76.3mm (not sure if outer or inner, inner will be 70mm minimum), the new Expreme ones are 73.xmm (again don't know if that is outer or inner, again inner will be 70mm minimum). If xforce copied HKS' dump pipe design, you can guess their front-pipe (y-pipe) might be a HKS copied design (the HKS front pipe is 2x 60mm into 1x 80mm)

Blue smoke is bad, usually means oil is leaking into a cylinder.. check your spark plugs and replace if they're fouled up, sounds like head gasket is blown (would piston rings causing coughing and spluttering though?)

Search "HICAS diagnostic"

I've cleaned my AFMs, replaced my cam cover with a clear trust item so had a poke around in there. Boostworx installed the adjustable cam gears for me (4 degrees advanced on the intake gear, 0 on the exhaust gear). I remember before dropping it off, my CAS was dead center in the slots, it wasn't until yesterday I noticed it's current position (before replacing the cover) is to the left, between the extreme left and middle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that mean the current CAS position is retarding the timing versus where the CAS would be if it were in the dead center position?

Pretty sure last week I saw an australia web shop had the ATI balancer for about $650 (edit: the racing one 500-1000hp)

Do you have a pic of them?

Vaseline or any petroleum jelly helps prevent that white/blue powder from building up on the terminals, though it doesn't conduct electricity so don't put it between where the terminals contact with the battery

I wouldn't lockbar it down and block the lines till I was sure it was HICAS at fault. Usually the HICAS light would light up if there was an issue (then you would run the HICAS self-diagnostic). Put the ECU into self-diagnosis mode and check for error codes. Also check your powersteering fluid level (since R32's HICAS runs off it, R33's and nweer are electric-based not hydralic-based)

I brought a dry cell from wrxhoon here for i think it was $215 delivered.

For the idling issue it will be worth looking at getting your AAC cleaned (search the forum for a guide)

Probably these: I run one on my GTR, it's not a catch can but rather an oil/air separator. Separates the oil and sends it down the rocker cover through to the sump.

I managed to fix mine doing the paper trick, owned it for 6 months and never bothered to diagnose it as I was getting coldair all summer.. aweful for winter

Do you still have HICAS?

Just get Pedders to do one of their cheap suspension inspections, and wahatever they find just replace yourself.

It's possible the crank angle sensor isnt working or is not connected, though I've never disconnected mine before so I don't know if it clicks or not (though the oil pressure gauge should show a buildup)