Moodles2

I'll take the spot if it's free, just let me know in PM who I need to DD the deposit to and their DD details.

$27 exactly for the bottle (Nulon Pro-Strength Octane Booster 500ml), I've only ever seen it at Repco and Sprint Auto: http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?produ..._Octane_Booster Make sure you don't get this one which cleans injectors as well as its not as good: http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?produ...Boost_and_Clean Just be careful about venting with a breather filter, it's defectable on public roads.

I assume your car was tuned for 98 RON fuel (BP Ultimate, Vortex98, Shell V-Power which is 100 etc), the octane booster will simply notch it up the fuel in your tank by 2-3 points to 101 RON. It will just make sure the engine is running rich, no matter what the inlet temperature is (Summer, especially 40+ degree days knocking is a real danger even with running octane booster). Not trying to scare you or anything, but by the time you hear engine knocking with your helmet on, you can pretty much guarantee your car will be going home on a towtruck. It's completely up to you if you don't want to spend $20 on a bottle (that will last 2 track days) to prevent a expensive engine rebuild.

^^ +1 ecutalk.com sells usb consult for about $75 iirc, definitely a good investment

My Earl's kit never came with a thermostat, I just added a B&M inline one that opens fully at 82c

At the end of the day, people are just going to point out that your R32 has a supercharged tractor engine in it. RB30E+T will be more powerful, more reliable and cheaper to do.

Nismo have their own oil air seperator (sits on the passenger side near the ABS unit), the picture I linked above is the Autech design, and Mine's Triple Flow Cam Cover Baffles which sit inside the rocker cover and do the exact same thing (seperating the oil from the air and sending it back into the engine). So your argument is that Nismo, Autech and Mines don't know what they're doing? Obviously oil/air seperators aren't ideal on the street where your trying to squeeze 5000km out of every oil change, but whereas on the track you should be running a fresh oil change beforehand anyway

PFC or not, you're still only going to get 250km per tank with dead O2 sensors. The genuine O2 sensors (front and back) are about $430 from Nissan for the set, though if you search you might be able find cheaper alternatives from NGK/Bosch etc

I guess I've missed my chance? Put me down if anyone pulls out

Try looking in this thread, and if it's not there request it there: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...be-t172870.html

Try unplugging the ECU and firmly replugging it back into the loom

Contact the sponser Kudos on here, does NGK plugs cheap and can recommend the right one for your application

Make sure the ignitor has a good ground, the misfire at 4000rpm is pretty common, theres a guide on here if you search about misfires in the 4000-5000rpm ish range.

Call up your local nissan, give them your vin and tell them about the bolt they should be able to find it in Nissan FAST pretty easily

I thought even with new turbos, some shaft play is "healthy".

Nistune has advantages over the PFC, Nistune you keep the factory features like cold start and the factory self-diagnostics, not to mention the awesome software. It's not flawless though, Matt has said to me in the past Nistune is good with injectors up to 800cc, bigger injectors it starts getting harder to get idle control right because of the loss of resolution, but hasn't stopped Nistune users from running 1000cc injectors successfully.

Tune is stored in read only memory, no way to undo it unless you pull the ECU apart and physically rip that chip out

RB engines move alot of oil around in blowby gases (RB26 is worst offender with its oil squirters), without a catch can, the oil in the blowby will be reincirculated back into the intake and the oily air will lower the RON of your fuel when its combusted (which risks detonation/knocking). Why I suggest octane booster is because engine detonation/knocking is hard to hear with a helmet on, again this is just engine insurance to make sure your engine doesn't detonate/knock while your on the track. Putting ECU into diagnostic mode is very easy, you can do it yourself: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...=ecu+fault+code

After cheap 5 stud rims to use at the track with my GTR, 17x9 all around is the minimum size and width I'm looking for, 17x10 (or wider) is more ideal

ECU doesn't know how much boost the turbos are operating at, only how much air is flowing through the MAF which it mixes with fuel accordingly.

Run a oil catch can (I would say this is absolutely necessary) Get a secondary bonnet restraint if you have a carbon bonnet, the factory latches have a habit of failing with those "carbon" bonnets. I use a 2nd'ary bonnet restraint even though i have a stock bonnet, don't want my factory latch to fail and my bonnet flying up while im on the track (midnight on here sells them cheap for about $25). Fresh oil change before the day, and look into overfilling Tyres you probably want to start fairly high (maybe 40psi) so you can let the air out during the day. Make sure there is plenty of meat on the front pads (would be nice to take a spare front set with you) Bring engine oil, brake fluid, powersteering fluid, coolant and demineralised water Being lots of rags, gloves to work inside the enginebay and duct tape (never know when you need it) Set the turbo timer longer than usual (I set mine for 10minutes) Check the ECU for fault codes before the day Take your front number plate off if it restricts airflow to the intercooler Run half a bottle of octane booster for abit of insurance (I prefer Nulon pro strength octane booster, don't get the one that cleans injectors as well), because it's hard to hear a engine knocking with helmet on.

Sounds like a (vacuum related) hose has come off and your getting unlimited boost

How much are the genuine GTR filters?

Nistune installed into your stock ecu will cost $200 for the board, and Matt fits it for $50 when you send the ECU to him. You don't need the Nistune tuning software ($200 for the user license, then again you'll need to pay another $70 for a Consult cable to be able to connect your laptop/computer to the OBD port) if your getting a workshop to dyno tune it as they will have their own tuners license. Here in SA I asked for quotes from 2 different shops and both quoted the Nistune dyno tune cheaper than a PFC dyno tune (when I was deciding what to do ECU wise when I first got my GTR).

tensioners and other bits etc are part of a 100,000km service, if you do change the belt you may as well do the full 100,000km service and get it done and over with