Moodles2

ECU has nothing to do with boost, only the solenoid and the ball bearing restrictor (or lack of) in the hose control the boost. Should be seeing exactly 14.7psi without the restrictor (indicated by a yellowband on of of the hoses going to the solenoid), if you want to to lower the boost put the restrictor back in.

No idea to be honest, could be something disguised as a turbo timer but in reality is a radar detector (i'm guessing because it's written in english, only time you have a jap electronic part with english on, is if your japanese you don't want the authorities knowing what the device really is), or relates to the car security.

Mine's ECU is tuned for japanese 100ron fuel, most likely the problem is there. 1.2kg/cm^2 is 17.1psi, if that is on stock turbos you can kiss the ceramic wheels goodbye in record time, they're not meant to be boosted past 1bar (14.7psi or 1.03kg/cm^2)

I would suggest using contact cleaner to clean the oil pressure switch (near the oil filter), as a dirty sender can send wrong data. If it's still reads the same I would try an aftermarket pressure gauge.

Apexi issued a thing about counterfiet Apexi turbo timers: http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6117.pdf

bump

If you use the cigarette light, it will be full brightness at night, and not light at all during the day. Though if you lightsource the climate control uses, it will be full brightness during the day and dim at night (that's if the light will work on the dim voltage whatever it be)

Search for "HICAS diagnostic"

I'm also trying to find wire clips (that let you tap into power from an existing wire), but can't for the life of me find them on the Jaycar website, are they called something else?

The 660cc injectors will probably be what is going to hold you back.

My oil cooler install was a no-expenses spared job (passenger side so lots of braided hose), so I spent the extra $200 for the inline thermostat + extra speedflow -10 fittings I needed. Before oil cooler it took 5 minutes for my oil temp to get to 70c, with oil cooler+thermo installed it's exactly the same. There's about 6l of oil in my system, the normal 4.5l RB26's take and approx another 1.5l in all my lines + core. Some people without thermostats just put a plastic bag over their oil cooler, or some sort of other covering during winter (even using numberplate).

Earl's do make an inline thermo (here) and a sandwich type thermos (here) and B&M make a cheap (got mine for $110) inline thermo (here) which I added onto my existing system

If you have a HKS turbo timer loom then it will work with their other (HKS) turbo timers

Haven't mounted it anywhere yet, need to go out and buy some wire and extend the wiring abit, the light on the cig lighter is a good idea, easy to get to.

I only want my boost gauge light to be powered when the headlights are on, where can I draw it's power from other than the lightswitch itself?

Depends how much you want to spend, $300 can get you a proper EBC; Gizzmo MS-IBC (soemtimes theyre $250), I run one with my 32 GTR and pretty happy with having 6 boost memories.

I would recommend QFM A1RM's at the track (also nearly as good as the HPX pads on the street), jetpilot on here does them cheap (about $130 for the fronts). Last time I did my track day my oil at the end of the day still looked the same as what I put in (then again I've been doing 1500km changes because of my low daily km), sounds like you could run an oil flush additive next time you do a change. Nothing wrong with it being black though, just means it's doing it's job. I recommend the oil catch can though, just keep an eye out for a cheapie (2nd hand).

Water is about 86c, turbo operates alot higher than that. Even hot water is going to cool it.

Take pictures then, sounds like they've been painted red, the nissan ones have Nissan in big writing and Sumitomo is in smaller letters

The tomei baffle has trapdoors as part of their design, which kinda makes the overfilling not as important compared to it's importance with the stock baffling while at the track. But I think with the stock oil pickup there's always the possibility of oil starvation when the oil is pressed against the wall of the sump with high g-forces.

Do your calipers say "Nissan Sumitomo", is so then yes normal gtst pads

Sounds like the ECU is in limp home mode, are any of your warning lights on th dash coming on?

Try the Nitto pump out, it may cost abit more than the N1 but their reliability is supposed to be up their with the Jun/Greddy pumps

What car is it? with R32 GTRs at least the stock gauge gets it's reading from balance tube which in turn is connected to the pressure regulator