Moodles2

Been on a 2WD dyno recently by any chance? possible the dyno operator didn't put the front shaft back on properly (but that asks another question, which would be why didn't the dyno operator just pull the fuse since it was a R32)

The squeaking is usually the brake pads shims vibrating from not being greased properly on a pad change. I just used penrite lithium grease on my shims when I changed my front pads and never even got a squeal while bedding them in.

You can do the injectors yourself as long as you change your PFC to reflect the new injector size, but I would only recommend it for a short distance and driving very sedately and not getting on boost at all on the way to the mechanic.

Are you running power straight from the battery to the audio equipment? might be enough just to have the headunit drawing power directly from the battery, should get rid of the alternator whine.

Symptoms point to the pump as a possibility, very common for the old R32 pumps to die, since it's a early 33 the stock pump might be nearly 15 years old now

what transmission fluid are you running in the boxes?

Search for a guide on how to change the transmission fluidon here, probably to stick a toothpick in the filler plug (with the car level) to gauge the fluid level

Was just pointing out there are different factory suspensions with at least 1 other model.

GTR V-Spec's factory suspension are generally lower than the normal GTR's. Check your VIN through Nissan FAST, might shed some light on the suspension.

try rhdjapan.com they usually get things cheaper from nissan japan

Don't need 2 different a/f maps, just make sure the SAFC is not leaning out at 16psi, it will be fine for any psi lower. Though I'll add something though, not a great idea to be doing 16psi on a stock ecu, it's possible even with the SAFC doing the correct mixtures up to 16psi, the stock ecu it might trigger fuel cuts or going into rich and retard mode etc

Not something you actually feel with everyday driving, only really feel it on the track or spirited driving in say mountains which people then delevope their love/hate relationship.. hicas doesnt really kick in either, only has 5 degrees of motion max on the rear wheels

I emailed Nismo USA about the damper settings on my s-tune coilovers (1-5 instead of 1-8 like yours), and they responded that the higher number was stiffest damper while the lowest number was the softest damper

With R32's at least, it's usually the oil pressure switch has become dirty (near the oil filter), unplug the rubber boot and give the contact points a good clean with contact cleaner and should fix it. Otherwise if the oil pressure gauge is still acting up, A/M pressure gauge is the only other option.

It has been argued with the 300V you can put oil changes off till 10k, though I'm not suggesting it, just mentioning it. If you want full synthetic while staying with motul try the 8100 series (like the x-cess 5w-40), cheaper than 300V. 10w-60 hot rating is just too thick for a skyline, even 10w-50 hot rating is too thick imo (although since the engine has done 160k I still wouldn't use a 50 unless it was leaking oil). As for turbolight 4100, it's an ok semi-synth, about 75% synthetic I've read.

Check powersteering fluid level as HICAS shares the fluid with the P/S. Check ATTESSA fluid level in your boot (in boot, against drivers side wall behind the gray wall things)

if GTR, 10-11psi

When my handbrake is down, and I turn the key to turn the engine off, it doesn't turn off straight away, but instead beeps 4 times over 4 seconds before it turns off. Is this normal for old HKS turbo timers? I was thinking since I already have the HKS TT loom, I might get a newer HKS that doesn't have this behaviour, that will instead turn the engine off straight away with the handbrake down and key turned to off. I was also thinking about making a killswitch for my current timer, maybe put it inline with the ground wire so there's no hint of a turbo timer if I ever get pulled over.

Mine does the exact same crunch changing from 3rd to 4th at peakpower, delay the shift for a second longer and mine doesn't crunch.

Hopefully if I get these Nismo braided lines on (and brake system bleed and replaced with rbf600), front brake air deflectors put on, ruzic engineering 4wd controller wired up and trans fluid switched to redline lightweight shockproof. If I get all this done, I'll definitely be there for Modern Reg.

Would you get more track time at modern reg or the practice day before?

I'm interested, would like to know the costs though

Do you need a Level 2S license for Modern Regularity, or can you get a 1day license for the event (and will it still be $25) ?

CRD sells a Nitto rb26dett metal gasket set (Intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body) for $215 delivered to me, alot cheaper than the jap a/m option

Did you use the factory hoses, or run a new hose from the intake manifold to the solenoid?