Moodles2

Read your hand controller's, it should tell you the knock value... though it's accuracy is questionable at best. I would be taking it to your tuner to confirm your AFR's are safe, you don't want to take the risk of blowing up your engine.

Oil flush additives aren't worth it, I just dump the oil when it's been up to operating temperature (wear protective gloves etc to protect your hands) and jack up the passenger side to help.

Motul Chrono 300V is probably the very best you can get, its a 10w-40 Full Synthetic (but a unique full synth being that it's double ester).. expensive, works out to be about $140 for 6l (only comes in 4l and 2l bottles). I use Motul 8100 X-Cess, it's a 5w-40 full synth and is about $75 for 5 litres, there is another Motul 8100 that is 10w-40 which is same price roughly. Motul 4100 Turbolight alot of people here use, its a top quality 10-40w semi synth and its about $50 for 5 litres. Perfect for a street only car imo. As for cheap alternatives for good full synths, have a look at performancelub.com the Mobil 1 and German Castrol in particular (the Redline on there is a very good full synth, and the Royal Purple XPR is a very good synth as well, the Amsoil another full synth that has a pretty good rep in the states)

Mine came in the mail today so I'm happy

With RBs its ok for the oil level to be slightly above H as most of us track go'ers overfill anyway. Depends on your budget and how much you want to spend every 5k oil change? Ideally a full synthetic 5W-40 or 10W-40 is what you want.

My old commodore was like that, common problem where the resister cage (looks like a mini birdcage with the resistorpack in the middle), no matter what fan speed you chosen, max fan speed.

I brought a K&N filter (factory oiled when new) for my GTR and did about 3000km on it before I went to clean out my AFMs and there were clean not a drop of oil on either.. when it comes to re-oiling the filter, don't go overboard and blow the excess oil off with a air gun.. shouldn't have any problems.

How was determination made that the clutch pack is gone?

If the R32 GTR climate control is the same as the GT-T's, grab the R32 GTR service manual PDF and read the Heater/Aircon section. Just will take alot of time probing with a multimeter that's all. An educated guess if the fuses check out, is one of the relays are blown in the enginebay or the blower fan motor is dead.

Delaying the shift will save your 1st and 2nd gear synchros, shockproof might help in your case

Here's a translation of the fusebox. If still no air, replace the following with brand new fuses: both 15amp Fan Motor fuses (#4 & #5), the 10amp A/C fuses (#10 & #20) and the 10amp "Electronic parts" fuse (#23)

Check every fuse in your drivers fuse box.

That would probably be your synchro's in the gearbox, Redline Shockproof Lightweight does wonders for Skyline gearboxes (well masking it anyway, when synchro's are gone the only true fix it to replace them)

Put the ecu into diagnostic mode, see if there's any error codes. Before cleaning the AFM (electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner), attack the pod with compressed air, get the excess oil off. Electrical tape on the coilpacks: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html regap the plugs to 1.0-1.1mm (might be missing at 0.8mm, might have to go back to 0.9mm or even the stock 1.0-1.1mm gap) Compression test all the cylinders. All this can do for free in your backyard if you have the bits.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ntrol+diagnosis follow the self diagnosis

About a month or so ago, the aus300zx forum had a massive groupbuy of 40+, I was part of it. The groupbuy brought the price down to about $188 delivered for the green lcd. I originally tried to start one up but there was not even 1 bit of interest on this forum.

I dunno if you have them or not already, cam gears, have them adjusted for midrange torque to help get boost on sooner.. ISC/Justjap/GKTech sell a same (ok) pair for $199

The serial cables are more compatible and cheaper, but you will be hardpressed to find a newish laptop with a serial port. The USB cable are just as good, just whatever you do, do not get a serial cable and use a USB adapter, the likely hood of it not working is very high.

ecutalk.com might have what you want

Stupid question, did you put the sump plug back on? It's possible you have the wrong dipstick for you car, or the previous owner did some sort of sump modification to hold more oil. Just keep filling till it registers

One of those Nismo clutch slave cylinders might help, or it might do nothing, just an option. Might be worth researching into it though.

Do not get the nismo thermostat, it's really for track-only duty imo.

Head over to a jap parts place and pick up a genuine jap brace, they pretty much have an excess of them

Might wanna consider adj. cam gears if you don't already have them, will help and they're tucked away behind the cover out of sight.