Moodles2

You've asked alot of questions, but each question doesn't make sense. Oil catch can, cheap ones work fine if you pack them full of steel woll.. there are no specific R33 catch cans, RB20/25 and RB26 have different plumbing but otherwise use the same catch cans. Only way to clean the intercooler is take it off and attack with degreaser and a high pressure sprayed. As for oil being coated in other places, that's not normal.. are you loosing alot of oil between oil dipstick checks?

Without more info on the turbo, you need to find out the pressure where it starts losing efficiency, or else you're needlessly generating alot more heat than you really be needing to out of the turbos efficiency range.

O2 sensors shouldn't cause that, sounds like a loose TPS to me

Boostworx (who I use for my GTR), Morpowa etc.. check the SA section for a sticky reputative workshops

The "Air/fuel sensor", do you mean the Oxygen Sensor? Nope shouldn't have any effect on misfiring. Give your AFM (Air flow meter) a clean.

Hav you tried adjusting the dampers on the coilovers to the softest setting?

Inside ceramic cats, the ceramic castrate have been known to collaspe (due to misfiring/knocking or shook apart due to vibration I cant remember), metal cats the castrate is welded to the body so its less likely to collaspe.

I hate dealing with FLYN, I would spend alittle more and get it from a trustworthy source like: http://www.isc-warehouse.com/index.php?mai...products_id=242

I see a problem there, all 3 boost controller ports are being used.. I think only 2 are supposed to be plugged into it.

I think it's all a load of crap, when theyre $8 each, just change it when you change your oil.. May as well use a genuine Nissan filter, theyre pretty much the same price maybe cheaper than the Ryco equiv.

Cut off the hose where its split, and simply plug whats left it back into the factory map sensor for the boost gauge ,if there's not enough left just get a new hose, you will find it starts at the rear of the balance tube.... it's dangerous to drive around with a line such as this that has access to the atmosphere, unlimited boost.. bang there go your turbos and maybe engine too. And on engine vacuum it will suck dirt and shit straight into the engine bypassing the air filter.

That be a consult cable on the end of that temp gauge, open up your fuse panel under the steering wheel to the right.. the plug location is usually in the upper left of the fuse box area.

If non ADR-compliance isnt a issue to you, can't go wrong with the Nismo braided lines, alittle over $300 to import.. maybe less now the exchange rate is more favourable since I last checked.

If they are the ones I'm thinking of, if you want piece of mind just swap out the allen bolts with high-tensile replacements

Open up the air bleeder near the injectors/pressure regulator.. might be some air trapped in the head

I don't know how R34's work, but incorrect oil pressures (32's, 33's) are the result of a dirty pressure switch, I would first clean the switch (near the oil filter). As for fitting a new pump, its a engine out job. Others have reported the Nitto pumps are as good, if not better than the $2000 jap pumps. If it's not going to the track, or be bouncing off the limiter, there are better ways to spend your money than getting track orientated pumps for a lazy daily driver. Read this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N1...il-t283867.html

Check it yourself, it's not hard. Just look through the rim, or take the wheel off.

R32 GTR and R33 GTS-T front rotors are similar, both diameter's are 296mm, but the R32 GTR's is 32mm thick while the R33 GTS-T is 30mm thick. R33 GTR's are a different animal (Brembo brakes), which front rotors are 324mm. Check rs73's group buy forum for cheap rotors.

I don't really have much to add, though from what I've read PPG, have their pros and cons, their con being crap (sometimes non-existing) support

The manual says it holds approx 4.1l, 3.9l is close enough.. 4 quarts is actually 3.78l though.. I gave my mechanic 5.76 litres of shockproof lightweight to do my gearbox (4.1l by the manual) + front diff (1l by the manual).. was left over with half a bottle (6x 0.946l bottles)

The bigger sards like the 700cc and 800cc, even the 1000cc are supposed to be a real tight fit, but shouldnt have any problems putting them in with alittle oil to help. I think the 800cc is the biggest Sard injector you can use with the stock fuel rail, pretty sure the 1000cc needs a bigger A/M rail

A genuine replacement is like $320 for one injector I belieive.. check perfectrun, greenline, nengun, rhdjapan etc for a set (6) of sard 534, 650, 660, 700 or 800cc injectors is about $730 delivered (been on special for the past few months). Injectors you want top feed, low impedence, and make sure they are RB26 specific. Nismo 555cc and 600cc are direct fit, Sard 534cc to 700cc are a direct fit, 800cc require you to modify your injector plugs. I believe people have recommended someone in WA I think it was (sending their injectors interstate to him), will clean your injectors and is able to fix them for cheap

Jetpilot1986 on here (i think thats his username) sells QFM HPX pads for $79, just search the business traders forum. As for putting it off, check the pad level yourself through the rim if you can.

Can't use factory boost source, as the source is bled and was only meant to be used with the factory actuator (source is near the clutch I believe). You need to blank that source off, and run a new hose from a suitable pressure source from the manifold (can't remember the location I use, it's the rear of the plenum)

All Jap ECU's are tuned to 100 RON, we only have 98 RON here.. generally they are just stock ECUs with the jap tuner's chip inside (I wouldn't put one blindly in one car it wasn't tuned for)