Moodles2

I'm guessing the FPR was recommended by the tuner because the current injectors are being maxed out? I think a set of 2nd hand GTR injectors is a better choice than using the FPR to get more out the current injectors, at least then you've got a ~60kw bufferzone till you max out the GTR injectors.

For a car that goes to the track even just once a year, or if you're able to get your oil temp over 100c on the street.. then yes it is worth it.

First thing I would do is run the HICAS diagnostic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HI...tic-t22193.html Though in your case, I think this would apply to you since you mention you changed the wheel: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4743258

Sounds great, I will be interested though i'll prefer to wait abit closer to the day (maybe afew weeks) before I commit. Will there be any facilities such as fuel, tyres or the kiosk available for the day? I wouldn't mind sharing a garage with others, just to store spare tyre, jerry can(s), fluids, tools, spare parts and other loose objects.

Take the numberplate off, get more air on the rad/intercooler. Take the coil cover off, so you dont cook the coils. I recommend a oil catch can or a oil/air seperator. A radiator guide is always nice to divert the escaping air back on the radiator. Half a bottle of Nulon Pro strength octane booster for some engine insurance. Depending on the current state of the brake fluid i would flush it and put new fluid through. Start the day with about 40psi so you can let air out during the day. Oil cooler would be great addition, and some front brake air deflectors as well.

the R32 service manual for the RB26DETT specifies the cylinder compression lower limit as 121psi, with no more than 14psi difference between adjoining cylinders.

It's the leprechaun's secret hiding place for his pot of gold.. absorbs fuel vapours etc so you don't smell them in the cabin amongst other things.

Yep, it's blue so you cant miss it (blue bottle, blue liquid aka smurfsblood), effectively a 80w140 Check performancelub.com , its the cheapest place to get it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sl...ar-t286156.html Walbro GSS-342 fuel pump kit, $155 Delivered http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...op-t172031.html Nismo pumps, direct dropin with no modifications and are the best flowing intank pump (if you want to support 400kw in the future) R33 GTR Model Number : 17042-RR596, $565 Delivered (your profile just says R33, so I pasted both) R33 GTST Model Number : 17042-RRS41, $495 Delivered http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ps-t168744.html Bosch 040 $225 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...op-t225776.html Bosch 040 $225 delivered http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...ps-t247359.html Walbro GSS-342 $175 delivered

Sounds like a myth, it's a racing engine afterall not a taxi engine.. about 150,000km you are probably looking at a rebuild anyway, though only if compression is below certain limits for that specific engine (rb20, rb25, rb30 etc are all different)

Not sure how to test it, maybe you can find someone in your area with the same car and test your CAS on their R32 GTS-T.. a 2nd hand CAS probably looking at about $80 from a jap wrecker If the CAS is problematic, you should be getting code 11 I think, CAS with the nissan diagnostics

I wouldn't trust an ebay item. Check the forum sponsors for a new bosch 040 (i'm guessing about $160), its a direct replacement with very little modification or the walbro (genuine not a chinese copy) one. Or there's the Nismo option which is a direct dropin, but theyre about $400-$500 last i checked

Just curious why you're using that Nismo FPR with the sard 700s, the injectors should be able to support 400kw no problem? As for power loss, very strange, maybe the timing belt just jumped a tooth.. and what position was/is the CAS set to (the CAS thing shouldnt be an issue if the tuner was familiar with skylines)?

I believe the trick when buying Tuolene, is to say your old man wants to clean his tools with it, not using it as a fuel as the business has to tax you.

Were the Group A GTRs from the early 90's a dry sump or externally oiled?

If it's a jap battery that came with it when it was imported, I wouldn't be suprised if it were a dud, I know mine was.

Are you injectors low or high impedance? if they are high impedance I don't think you need the resistor pack at all

if you are in third gear and are changing at peak power (6800rpm) into fourth, r32 gtr boxes all crunch.. only thing you can do is delay the shift by a second.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene

Endless kit is very expensive, I was looking at greenline earlier and for just the front kit its $5,874 and rear kit is $4,618.. the cheapest option might most likely be with this guy for such a big order (small commission): http://jessestreeter.com/ http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...ke+Upgrade+Kits

maybe soften the front dampers up abit, get more grip on the front.. and how much air are you running in the front and rear tyres?

It's about a 4 hour job, this is what a 100,000km timing belt kit looks like; http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ku...5det-p-558.html

Those Jap tuner ECUs are really meant to be used with 100 RON fuel which we don't have.

I put in half a bottle of that Nulon Pro Strength every trackday, always worried about knocking and knowing I won't hear it in time with a helmet on.

10w60 is too thick, it's what you would probably put in a ex-taxi commodore from the early 90s with 200,000km+.. though thick oil is almost always is used mask engine noises. As for overfilling it's ok to overfill by 500ml-1000ml. 10w40 is ideal for a skyline. I would advise taking it to a mechanic that know what they are doing when it comes to Skylines, especially jap imports