Moodles2

I hope you've got the money tucked away to get a new transfercase. R33 and R34 transfercases have preload on the clutch packs (which will likely overheat them without electrical power to the ATTESSA system), this trick should only be done on the R32's because they don't have any preload on the clutch packs. It's why any smart dyno operators drop the front shaft with R33/R34s.

HKS (flawed design, split is too short) and tomei will be bolt-on, xforce probably won't bolton without modification

If the car is a GTR, cat temp sensor, non-GTR who knows, most likely the seatbelt (I'm fairly sure only the GTRs have cat temp sensors?)

On the subject, a friend's R31 Skyline. His waterpump seized, taking the waterpump/alternator belt with it. For all we know, that was the factory fitted pump, engine now has 200,000+ km

Check the forum sponsor Kudos Motorsports' site, the cheapest Ive seen

0w40 is fine, it just means it will protect alot better when the oil is cold

Oil will sludge up over the course of the year, be ok for idling, I just wouldn't drive on that sludged up oil

The best stuff for loosening those kinda things is this old school stuff called 'Penetrene'. If you can heat up the dump (but not the o2 sensor) with flame heat, it might be enough to release it.. I'm not expert in these matters though

Don't suppose you have a turbo timer installed? it's a possibility it is the cause since it affects the ignition wiring

10 year old car, most likely the pump. Cheapest option is the Walbro pump (check the forum sponsor Sliding Performance, $155 delivered), or go with a Bosch 040, DIY guide for the 040 install is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...mp-t253097.html

Oil temp should be about 85c, I have to go to the track to get it over 100c. A consult cable (I highly recommend one, as you can turn the fan on/off with free consult software) would be handy to check what the ECU reported water temperature is (or even one of those ECUTalk Consult LCDs), even on my R32 the temperature gauge is very vague and can't really be trusted when Ive got my Consult LCD to tell me what the temp really is.

The R34 N1 turbos are the pick of the litter when it comes to lag of N1 turbos, but I hope you do mean mean R34 N1 turbos not R34 GTR turbos as the R34 GTR are ceramic wheel, except for the R34 GTR N1 and Nur spec which come with the N1 steel wheel turbos

If the aircon still works, I would start it up at least every month and run the aircon for 5 mins so the seals don't dry out. If it is going to sit, there for a year, before I would disconnect the battery. After; the oil will need to be changed, fuel tank drained (as the fuel will be long stale) and put fresh fuel in the tank

nengun.com greenline.jp perfectrun.com.au rhdjapan.com are probably the 4 cheaper options if you want to import (in no particular order), otherwise if you want to deal with a local try the forum sponsors

Quite normal I believe

T04B is compressor housing T25 is the centre housing 0.64 is the A/R ratio The R32 Nismo N1's are the laggiest of the N1s, though I think 18psi isn't uncommon for them, I think over 20psi they lose their efficiency and just create heat.

Need a roll cage to take a passenger around with you, probably a CAMS insurance thing.

If it's an R32 power steering pump, its likely the extra connection for the hydraulic HICAS

The stock gaskets have been known to blow at stock boost levels due to age (or upping the boost from stock), the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets on GTRs are paper.

I like my Gizzmo MS-IBC, its simple, cheap and to the point, wastegate pressure (gain) and boost pressure (duty cycle) is all I ever needed, I use all 6 boost memories for different boost settings (10psi to 14.7psi) and various gain settings for violent or normal boost building.. it's an Australian product with Australian support (Ray knows his stuff) so can't go wrong. Very easy to hide, both the controller and the solenoid.

Nistune is a daughterboard that is installed inside an existing ECU. At the moment you can't use your current ECU because there is no Nistune board for it, as the others have said, R32 ECU + Nistune board is an option but you cannot retain your VCT, or the recommended option is the ECU from a Z32 VG30DETT + Nistune board and keep the VCT

I've been looking at getting cheap wheels to use soley at the track, but can't seem to find a cheap set of 4 that is the same 17" and widths. I was thinking of getting 2 different sets of 17x9's, use one set on the front and other set for rear. If both sets have completely different offsets, if there a chance that the ATTESSA will act up on my R32 GTR?

I believe there are english manuals out there for that EBC, if that's what your after?

Ok the R200 is a mechanical hypoid LSD, R200V I think is the "Active LSD" version of the R200

If your going to change the timing belt, I recommend changing the tensioner and the idler pullys (and new tensioner spring), both cam seals and the crank oil seals, water pump. If you are going to change it with the engine in, it will make getting the harmonic balancer easier to get off (they can be done up to 500nm), I recommend removing the radiator if your going to remove the harmonic balancer bolt with a extension bar against the chassis and quick cranks of the starter motor (700+ cca battery is handy) to free it. I would probably leave this up to a qualified mechanic (even then I would only trust one that has worked on skylines before as I've seen qualified mechanics f**k up a timing belt change), the dangers of doing it wrong is all your valves smashing into the head.