Moodles2

Read the perth section of SAU, there should be a sticky with trusted mechanics/workshops.

Pretty much, never heard of ATF fluids reacting

R33 exact same gearbox. The gearbox drain plug iirc is visible on the drivers side halfway between the front and rear wheels (ie. nowhere near the fricken oil drain plug or engine under cover). As for what fluid to use, read the transmission oil sticky in the Drivetrain section.

www.ecutalk.com LCD plugs straight into the consult port to read speed from the ECU amongst other things it can read

Any ATF like dexron III or mercon should be fine. As for good? I don't think there's really a difference, genuine Matic D ATF probably is the best.

I think it's the check valve, not sure what it really does.

Take it to a professional that knows Skylines, because 100-140km a tank is beyond serious, and you seem abit clueless. I get better fuel economy in my R32 GTR at the race track (150km per 3/4 tank). All I can think of really is replacing the O2 sensor, but without knowing your driving style 100-140km might be normal. - Does it blow black smoke all the time? - Were the spark plugs fouled up? - Are the injectors stock? - Is it the right MAF for your engine? - Have you run toluene or any fuel additives that might have eaten up your rubber fuel lines? - Is your check engine light on? - Is the engine getting up to temp (ie 82c)? - Is fuel trickling out your exhaust when idling or driving? - Do you lose any fuel if the cars has been sitting overnight? - Are any of your injectors wet or moist on the outside? - Does the cabin stink like fuel at any time?

the Toyota 160V fluid realistically should be the only fluid going into the box, and Getrag 6 speeds aren't cheap to replace either.

Put good fluid in and it should last a long time, if your worried about blowing it up use a transmission cooler.

The normal Redline gearoil should be fine as they meet GL-5 specs.

mmHg, millimetres of mercury. 700mmHg (indicated by +7) is approx 13.2psi

sent my $122.50 on the 13th, im good to go.. hurt my knee at the gym on monday, pretty sure it will be 100% when the day comes.. just alittle scare hehe

Read Paul's Apexi PFC FAQ: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

160V fluid from Toyota is what you want to use (same getrag 6 speed gearbox in the Supra). According to this link: http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/V160.htm Castrol Transmax Z is ok as well.

rubbish, don't bother with ebay turbos unless you want to replace it every 3 months

1. You need a tuneable ECU (Nistune, Apexi PFC etc.. if you don't have one don't bother continue reading) 2. Are the xr6t injectors side feed or top feed? (RB20 manifold takes top feed injectors) 3. Are the xr6t injectors low or high impedance? (RB20 ecu expects high impedance injectors) 4. Do the xr6t injectors have the same plugs? (if not, you will need to wire in the xr6t injectors' plugs into existing wiring) As to whether they will physically fit? Who knows. The stock o-rings are 11mm top and bottom. Then you have to factor into it physically fitting in the fuel rail etc End story. Don't bother.. just get GTR injectors + GTR resister pack, at least then you know it's pretty much bolt-on.

Temp license ran out 3 days ago, CAMS needed some extra info on medical history which is a slow process. But at least full balance has just been transferred.

Do I pay for the one day cams license now, or on the day? It's just I recently put in my L2 cams license and not sure if I will get it by the 26th

What I think is most likely: Try a different fuel pressure regulator, injectors might be clogged and need cleaning, solder gone bad on an AFM (check DIY section for guide how to fix a AFM) Long shot: faulty O2 sensor (unplug them both so ECU runs in open loop permanently), I only say this because it seems the car is running fine in open loop while warming up, and when it goes to closed loop it starves itself of fuel and stops. Check the SA subforum for a sticky with trusted workshops, if you live in the northern suburbs send me a PM i'll give you the details of my mechanic who specializes in GTRs (r32 in particular)

I PM'd midnight awhile for a 2nd'ary restraint 6 months ago, might still have some left: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...onnet+restraint

This example is a -9 Garrett turbo to suit GTR. If you look on the right side of the compressor map is the turbine RPM, so with a pressure ratio of 2.5 (approx 25psi) the turbine is spinning at approx 155,000rpm

You will know when you have ceramic GTR turbos when the car has good response and makes boost early, if the car is laggy and you're not making full boost till after 4000 you could do an educated guess that you have a pair of GTR turbos with steel wheels. I don't have a higher res version of this unfortunately:

1. approx -525mmHg (negative 10.2 psi), dead stock rb26.. rb25 wouldn't be much different I would guess 2. FPR regulates the pressure, pressure will neither drop or raise with the new pump. Adjustable FPR's are evil, and should only be used to squeeze an extra ~10kw out of already maxed out injectors, it's best to stick to the stock pressure otherwise the spray pattern is messed up.

Possibly indicator of bigger problems, something is wrong with the turbo, or something simple like a exposed "T" piece wherever the gauge takes it's boost reading from.

Genuine Nissan ATF (not sure if it would be Matic D or Matic J with the R34), or anything that conforms to those specs like Transmax Z