Moodles2

Nismo dump pipes anyway to quote Nengun: "Nismo exhaust outlet pipe is unable to use with factory turbine outlet cover.". I was sure the Mines dump pipes were the same story, but can't find anything to back that up though now.

I'm no expert on the subject. It's possible 66 is duration 294 (360 - 66) with 9.5mm of lift, and the other 68 is duration 292 (360 - 68) with 9.5mm of lift.

Consult cable + a free program like EcuTalk is the safest way to read the voltage from the ECU is the safest way.

They are all copied of HKS split dump, HKS split dump and the Trust/Greddy extension pipe are the only split designs for rb26, all the other designs are bellmouth (hpi, tomei, sunline, power enterprise etc) except for Mines and Nismo (are split type, but not compatible with stock turbos) .

What my brand new front QFM A1RM pads looked like after the 4th 20minute session (I only knew something was up because i heard scraping on the left front while pulling out of pits into general area.

Anyone have experience with the Reimax cam cover baffle? it seens 3/4 the price of the Mines' product

RDA or DBA slotted discs that are cracking?

HKS pod is good for catching rocks.. it's not nicknamed "Rock Catcher" for nothing!

Going through my window cam and working it out by the footage, the fastest times I did were 1:27's (many times), averaged 1:28 if I wasn't caught behind someone. What kinda timers are everyone using? My 2nd off about 1minute after my dirt bath: and my corner exit onto pit straight tank slapper: youtube links should be right now

When brake fluid goes from max to min, pretty much always mean you've cooked the pads down to the backing plate that holds the pad material in place, mine lasted 80mins of mallala abuse before I had to change them.

I went into my window cam and found the spin I did with the windows down:

Awesome day today, beats an weekend open for sure. thanks to the guy who helped me with my front pad change. Tangles did you end up sorting out the brake fluid?

Can't sleep for some reason, guess I won't be 100% rested for tomorrow

Turbocharging with dual fuel, personally I would just choose one and stick to it, straight gas or straight petrol.. going to be expensive tuning both fuels in the future.

I need to double back from my house to get fuel at the BP on Pt Wakefield by boliver (I just hope unleaded is back to $1.10 ish by then), maybe I'll see everyone coming from Villi's down pt wakefield rd (what time will everyone be passing by there approx?). When is a good time to arrive in the morning to the track?

I think Nissan has always specified ceramic turbos are meant to be replaced every 100,000km

township is only a couple of minutes drive away, grab a pub meal or something in town

If you are going to put over 20psi through the engine, might want to look at using the thicker gasket to bring the compression down.. otherwise best to keep with stock compression for better response/fuel economy.

I saw Transmax Z in Super Cheap Auto yesterday (while not looking for it), white bottle

I checked your calculations for correct and latency and they're correct (assuming you are sure you have the correct injector size and latency for the new injectors). I can only think of 2 things, you need to do the idle procedure here: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#21 And the other thing trying a different source to T the map sensor.

Need more details on mods etc, and what you've already tried to fix this already (filter change etc)

If everyone just wants to use a shed to store loose objects (jacks, spare tyres, jerry cans etc), put like $2 each toward it?

Check IC hoses for a loose hose

Can put LSD oil in standard diffs, no issue there. SAF-XA is suitable for your front and rear diffs, whether lsd or not. I used Redline Lightweight Shockproof (80w140) in my R32 GTR's factory front diff (gearbox as well but don't put shockproof in a getrag box) and Redline 75w90 (couldn't find the non-shockproof 80w140 cheap) in the rear factory lsd (don't use shockproof in LSDs)

My suggestions: Tomei dumps on the -5's. New-style HKS front pipe (2x 70mm to 90mm). Radiator cooling panel if you don't already have one. Nismo intank pump. (best intank you can get) Maybe re-do all the clamps on the I/C piping. N1 cooling ducts. Straight pipe while at the track. Good oil pump or strengthened oil pump gear. Ross/Ati harmonic balancer to save the pump. N1 water pump or a bigger water pump pulley to drive it 5% slower so it doesn't cavitate at high rpm at the track. Mine's cam cover baffles (performance metalcraft here in aus make them as well). Have a look at UAS's front air brake deflectors, I run them on my R32 GTR so brake fluid boiling is less a risk (very expensive though). why braided oil and water lines, I thought the factory ones were pretty good?