Moodles2

Does the aircon switch between hot air or cold air easily? if it doesn't it's probably the servo blend motor needs resoldering, check the DIY section.. common R32 problem

After R34 GTR dumps

Interested in the dumps if theyre still for sale

Check www.ecutalk.com might have exactly what you're after.

WTB: R34 GTR dumps

What would be needed to fit R34 dumps on a R32? I'm guessing the temp sensor will need a bolt to block it off, will the R32 GTR O2 sensors fit straight in or will they need an adapter (and what sized adapter) ?

Yep Nismo AFMs is the way to go, support something like 775hp as a pair. I'm in same dilemma, keeping stock airbox but need 280kw+

Count me in, i'll chip in as well for the garage

Pretty much an overglorified grounding kit

Just assuming just based on what you changed, it could be the air filter if it was a over-oiled K&N filter it might be reasonable to say the AFM needs cleaning. Also could be a vacuum leak, fuel line not put on properly (even the wrong way around if thats possible with the fuel filter)

The VIN on the firewall, and then punch that into Nissan FAST software and it will tell you everything about it, color, transmission, options, build date etc

When it comes to bearings, I think most Jap tuning companies just resell ACL's bearings

The alternative is pulling the 4WD fuse, but 33/34 transfer cases have preload on the clutch packs unlike the R32 unit

What coolant you were running?

When a indicator bulb stops working, the dash blinkers speed up by alot to tell you that a indicator bulb needs replacing. The system expects a certain wattage bulb, using one that is more or less watts will still make it blink abnormaly.. Need resistors to compensate for that different wattage I think Craved is trying to suggest.

I agree on whats been said about 10w60, ive only ever read people running it on their track cars if it has serious blowby problems.

With ceramic turbos you want to run the least ammount of boost as possible to prolong the life of them, if you have steel wheel turbos then knock yourself out. I overfill to the kink in my dipstick, but otherwise have a read of the other trackday pre threads, also might be worth borrowing a windeband o2 sensor or getting a dyno run done to make sure the AFRs are safe.

The auto aircon place i pass everyday always has their "Regas for summer $100" sign out, and other mechanic shop franchises advertise about the same. I once took my Pulsar in to see if the aircon could be fixed, needed new condensor, new compressor, new fan belt, new seals etc which ended up being quoted a touch over 1k (if memory serves right)... i don't think the aircon had been used on it in many many years

Check the ground on the ignitor module, is the car missfiring?

Yuck apprentice mechanic working on a GTR, that is just wrong in so many ways, I won't even let a fully qualified mechanic touch my GTR. Only Skyline specialist mechanics & workshops. Sounds to me like the apprentice took it for a spin. Was anything else done in this service, like requiring the crank angle sensor to be removed and refitted etc? Get compression test and/or leakdown test to asses the health of the engine. Why HPR-10 though? It's a a 10w50, the hot rating is just too thick for a RB26DETT.

Should use the oil your engine builder recommends

What oil did you use, and how much did you put in?

I agree with blind_elks oil recommendation, 15w is just too thick of a cold rating (could explain the ticking while cold), 0w,5w,10w (0w & 5w are the better choices), and -50 is just too thick of a hot rating, 30 & 40 are ideal (40 is better of the 2)

~2kg/cm2 idling with cold oil ~1kg/cm2 idling with up to temperature oil ~3.5kg/cm2 is about right for 3000rpm Look all healthy to me

I was puzzled by the AIR email they sent out. I thought it had already been plowed and made way for Toll's dispatch thingy?