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Moodles2

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Everything posted by Moodles2

  1. Need a better tool for compressing the pistons on my Sumitomo calipers when changing pads, what do you recommend (faster the better)?
  2. I only hear of horror stories of magnatec in dailys, and pictures I google show visible sludging up through the oil filler cap.
  3. Try Kudosmotorsports.com for genuine O2 sensors, probably work out a way to import them to your country.
  4. Keep brake cleaner away from painted surfaces
  5. R32 N1's are the laggiest of all the N1 turbos
  6. Weather looks good tomorrow, cloudy with some sunshine and max of 25c, 10% chance of rain, less than 1mm of rain
  7. When I got new front tyres, the place I got them from offered to do a wheel alignment. I thought I would try to educate myself on the subject when I go back to do my rears later. My R32 GTR's suspension is all factory except for the Nismo coilovers, I was under the impression there was no adjustability in the suspension at all. Wheel doesn't pull to either side going straight and never hit a kerb before. Though at Mallala my left tyres front and rear (front the worse off) tyres get eat away the outside tread abnormally fast.. though im guessing that's just from all it's right turns or the left side's toe is in too far
  8. Found a good link of the subject afew days ago, decent read: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/O2sensors.html
  9. Go for the $30 range minimum, turbolight is usually $48.. i havent brought any oil in a while since repco had a 20% off all motul oils.
  10. Switched over to my track wheels this morning (2mm clearance between the wheel spokes caliper on the front, had me sweating abit.. worried i would have to run spacers), 255/40/17's all around.. no more sliding about hopefully, and got the coil cover off to vent the coils.. that's pretty much my track prep done
  11. I would just stay away from JJR splits, bellmouth front/dump is the way to go.
  12. My suggestions; I'm leaning towards that aftermarket BOV being the culprit, return to the stock BOV to see if you still have problems. Clean IAC Put the ecu into base idle mode and adjust the idle up
  13. CAS should have been marked when removed and put back exactly to same position (usually neutral position in dead center), in the wrong position can do nasty things like advancing the base timing (to the left) or retarding the base timing (to the right).. (if i remember left to right correctly). Timing will need to be checked each time the CAS is taken off.
  14. And experienced posters resurrecting 7 year old threads
  15. Genuine R34 N1's, spec wise pretty much identical in all aspects to the -7. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm
  16. The source for the pressure reading might be too laggy, fuel pressure regulator source might be better.
  17. Only way to know for sure is take it off and measure the diameter of the inside of the flange
  18. Put a gag on the passenger, that should stop the screaming
  19. Getting any error codes from the ECU?
  20. ^ Put the climate control into diagnostic mode, have a search for it on here.
  21. Yep Nistune is the way to go, should be easy Nistun'ing your current RB20 ecu wand loading the RB25 basemap into it.
  22. Start by replacing the fuel filter ($35 for a genuine item), then borrow/buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fuel pressure regulator (if it isn't working replace it), replace fuel pump with a Walbro GSS342 (cheaper of the 2) or Bosch 040 intake pump. Just make sure to get either pumps from a forum sponsor, don't get suckered into buying a chinese copy off ebay etc. Just start with the cheaper things, then if they dont solve them, replace the fuel pump as last resort.
  23. It's about 2-3hrs, maybe 4hr tops of labour.
  24. Since you mention GTS4, unfortunately you can't just drop anyold RB20 or RB25 in, as the 4WD sump is different from the RWD. You would either need a RB20DET from another GTS4, or a RB25DET from a 4WD Stagea, or else you will have to get adapter plates etc... that's how I understand it anyway.
  25. Probably no, GTR injectors (444cc) are the better choice ($200-$300 for a set), they are top feed and just bolt straight in, and just require a resistor pack because they are low impedance
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