Moodles2

ATTESSA fault codes or engine fault codes? Code 11 is Crank angle sensor Code 13 is Engine coolant temperature sensor Check that the incabin 4WD fuse is intact, might have been pulled for RWD (will explain why ABS and 4WD lights being on)

Depends on ECU, fuel consumption should be identical at the same power your making now, getting idle right is up to the tuner

Try getting someone to pump the brakes while the engine is on and listen for vacuum leaks around the MBC

Try different nissan dealerships, some are helpful to import owners, some aren't.. try www.rhdjapan.com they're expensive, but even if they dont list the item, they can order it

What are you using as the pressure source for the HDI unit?

This may sound like a silly question, but is the HDi gauge actually in PSI? 9 psi converts to 18.3 inHg (inches of mercury)

Check your states subforum for a sticky of trusted workshops.

Might just be the top injector o-ring is gone

Injector cleaner does nothing, waste of money

The 5 speed Nissan box is common to all R32s, all R33s, all R34s except the GTR.. and whining is not common, it might just be as simple as a gearbox fluid change to solve it. If the box does need replacing down the track, Nissan 5 speeds are very common anyway.

Are you using the wire loop at the back of the engine for the timing light? Coil #1 gives better signal for cheaper timing lights

I think you'd be hard pressed to find someone else using Lucas injectors, probably cheap for a reason.

Check Kudosmotorsports.com for a timing belt kit to suit your car.

Do you still use the factory viscous fan + shroud.. the shroud is important with temps

List what was done in the service, might get a better idea what change could have caused it.

Take it to a workshop in your state who knows what they're doing. You need an aftermarket ECU to run non-standard injectors (don't even bother with 2nd hand items, again asking for trouble, if the current injectors work just get them ultrasonically cleaned instead), and a tune to match the bigger injectors. Atmo BOV on a stock ECU is asking for trouble, and could be the problem. Gap current plugs down to 0.8mm, Check the ignitor ground wire (if it's only misfiring when hot you might need a new ignitor), try a new set of copper plugs (if still misfires gap them down to 0.8mm), then have a look at replacing your coilpacks (check http://www.performance-wise.com/page63.htm for cheaper yellowjacket coils)

The crosssclip is normal to be sticking out, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ad-t231627.html

Logically, red would be power, black be ground, and gray is signal. Use a multimeter on the control unit to probe out the power (most likely 5v or 12v) and the ground, and the one left over will be the signal wire

Maybe same problem as I have with the servo blend door (that controls the rod that determines if cold or hot air comes in), common R32 problem, might be same issue for you (putting pressure on the plug makes it works again).

Can tell timing belts have been done by a silver sticker on either the airbox or the timing cover which has xx,xxx kilometres scratched into it. Belt age is more a factor than raw kilometres when it comes to failure, something like you don't want a belt thats older than 7 years. To put it in perspective, belt fails, head has to come off, you have to replace 12-24 valves (no idea the cost for genuine vs aftermarket), and theres probably other things you need to take into perspective (valve guides, new head gasket etc), but I don't have much knowledge in that area. $400 for a 100,000km timing belt kit with: Timing Belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, cam and crank seals, water pump. Cheap insurance. Labour? probably no more than 3-4hrs.

Start by putting the climate control into diagnostic mode, check the DIY section

Sounds like a boost leak, the higher boost opens the crack up and becomes a leak

One of the hoses going to the stock boost actuator, there is a yellow ring around it (afew cm away from the actuator), the restrictor is inside the hose at the indicated band, if you can squeeze the hose the restrictor has been taken out, if its solid then the restrictor is still in there.

A stock R32 GTR rear swaybar is 25mm thick (hollow) as far as I understand, how much stiffer in percent is the selby 24mm rear adjustable swaybar (SNR26CA) on its hardest setting?

Turned out pretty good