Moodles2

Did you use any fuel additives at the drag strip? if so the additive might be the cause of the sensors death

Something like this: http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/produc...products_id=101 Air leak could be a split in one of your vacuum hose

When cruising at a constant engine load, you'll ideally want to see 0.4v - 0.6v. I don't know much about O2 sensors, but the fact that it still cycles means it's not completely dead. If it is indeed showing lean mixture @ 0.06v, check how much black smoke it's putting out as the ECU will richen things up to compensate thinking the engine is running lean. If it's blowing lots of black smoke while reporting a low voltage I would be looking at getting a new o2 sensor.

Read what Galois said like 3 or so posts back: read mate, there has been so much on these oils in the last 10-20 pages. you'll want either 5w40 or 10w40 for an rb In short, 15w-50 is too thick in both its cold and hot rating.

Looks like a walbro copy, the last thing you want is a fake walbro pump, at least shell out the money for a real one (check the forum sponsors), or better yet a Bosch 040

The stock gauge reads in kg/cm2, then just use: http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Pressure_Conversion_Table 1kg/cm2 for example is close to 1bar which in turn is about 14.x psi convert kg/cm2 to whatever pressure you prefer, psi, bar etc

Start with differences first (off the top of my head) RB26DETT: 2x AFMs, 2x O2 sensors, 444cc injectors RB20DET: 1x AFM, 1x O2 sensor, 270cc injectors Will it physically plug into an RB20's wiring loom, can't answer that. Will it work? if it does, it will be like utter shit

Sounds like a great way to make your turbo(s) wheel(s) go white.

SAFC + "tuned" ecu... ?

It's been repeatedly said people are putting 350kw+ through stock dumps (even the bnr32's), if I had to go aftermarket I would go Tomei instead (the old ones, not the new ones)

http://performancelub.com/ Harold is the man when it comes to cheap royal purple (amongst other things as well)

If it's not the main ECU, it could be any of the following: AUTO ECU (I may have read somewhere some auto skyline's have a seperate ECU for the autobox) ATTESSA computer (if 4wd) ABS computer

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

The cig lighter is a common place to draw power from for boost controllers, boost gauges etc, might be worth looking to see if a previous owner has done this and messed with the wiring somehow.

There's only supposed to be no more than 10% variance between cylinders, 160 and 112 is at least 50% difference. Rebuild time.

The most accessable one is the one near the fuel pressure regulator, I believe there is another in between the exhaust manifold but it's a drain bolt.

Give both AFMs a good clean with contact cleaner, and giving the ecu a reset shouldn't hurt either.

When I changed mine (genuine nissan belt), it whirred abit at idle for about 2-3 weeks then went away

New belts usually do that before theyre settled in, If it's a Gates timing belt, completely normal, might need retensioning down the track if it still does it

Highflow the stock turbo, aftermarket ecu, dyno tune.

148kw is fairly ordinary from 8psi, check that you don't have a tiny compliance cat choking up the exhaust. Might be worth investing in a high flow catalytic converter, or a full turbo back exhaust (or a catback at least) To chase 250kw, you are going to need to get a aftermarket ECU and get your stock turbo highflowed (then you can bump up the pressure, as you can't go higher than 10psi safely with the stock turbo wheels). Then to support 250kw, I don't think the stock injectors are up to the task, you will either need bigger injectors or a fuel pressure regulator to squeeze the most out of your existing injectors.

Mineral in theory won't last as long as a full synth.

Problem could be something as simple at the thrust bearing on the clutch has gone, not simple in labour to do

Motul don't really make any gearoils for hypoid LSDs (I mistakingly referrer to it as a viscious LSD), there is 90PA but it's mineral based http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/gear_box/gear01.html There is a 100% synthetic one called "FF-LSD type 2", it's way more expensive and it's really meant for front wheel drive applications, but it's compatible with hypoid LSDs http://www.motul.co.jp/eg/product_line_up/...box/gear13.html

Nissan specifies 80w90 iirc, I used Redline 75w90 Gear Oil, just make sure it's compatible with LSDs (Viscous type to be particular, GL4/GL5 will do)