Moodles2

Just abit curious why you aren't using the factory steel lines?

DOT3 and DOT4 are supposed to be chemically compatible so you can mix, but over time the boiling point of brake fluid gets lower and lower as the fluid takes on water from the atmosphere. If the current fluid is black it would be worth getting it bled out and new fluid put in.

I've got a set here in a box, they are suitable GTR injectors.

Don't bother with the split designs (HKS and every person and their dog who has copied this design like CES, XForce etc have done, and just about every Chinese knockoff, autobahn888 etc), the split is just too short to be worthwhile. Also bear in mind at the bare minimum, the rear turbo (or front if I've got it backwards) has to be removed to fit new dumps, unless you are making over 350kw I would stick to stockers. If you have your heart set on bellmouth dumps, wait abit for the australia dollar <-> japanese yen to get better and you could import a pair (HPI, Tomei etc) for just alittle over $600

The RB20 doesn't have the factory oil warmer, so the taking the mount from it (housing, bracket? im not sure what the name of it is) is popular when you have an A/M oil cooler.

I would give the AAC valve a good cleanout, if that doesn't solve it then clean the AFMs

Check your tyres, do you have the exact same profile all around (ie 225/50/16 etc), and is the tyre brand and model the same on every corner. Also check you have the same tyre pressure on every corner.

I would only put Shockproof in, if the box was crunching on quick shifts (something I can only do at the track)

Cheapest option is yellow jackets for about $380, if I had to choose I would just go with them over the more expensive Splitfires.

Walbro and Bosch pumps seem to work so much better when they're at alternator voltage (making a chassis ground for the pump)

Generally you can squeeze 800cc Denso injectors on a GTR fuel rail with alittle oiling (but then it's a top feed rail, versus an RB25 which is side fed), maybe the same is true of the RB25 rail. The spray nozzle is mounted into the block/head, while the other end is physically mounted to the fuel rail, I guess the plug helps keep it in place too.

Not factory, the factory oil cooler (oil/water heat exchanger is a more accurate description of it's function) is as what the the picture suggests, attached to the block.

Sometimes happens with mine, but only rarely when i start it up cold in garage, usually just have to roll forward 1mm and I can select it.

Nissan really isn't an option, something ridiculous like $400 per injector. Check the for sale section, something like $200 (more, less I dont know as I dont check it often) for a set of 5/6 2nd hand ones. Aftermarket injectors you are going to need an aftermarket ecu or nistune to use them anyway.

Was the problem there before the timing belt change?

If you had a Consult cable you would normally put the ECU into "base timing adjustment mode" first before checking with the timing light

AFMs in nature operate between 0v and 5v, 0v means there is no air flowing through, 5v means it's completely maxed out (which is about 200kw with a RB25 AFM). I know with my GTR i see 0.9v to 1v while idle (GTRs run 2 AFMs so your idle voltage might be higher or lower)

You will need a boost controller (manual or electronic) to get that 10psi you want, when freeing up the exhaust you'll only see 1psi difference really depending how restrictive the factory exhaust was. 2 options really, the boost controller, or the free boost trick that grounds the factory boost solenoid so it only runs high: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ost-t42895.html

You will only see the injector duty cycle with the engine running

Try Castrol SAF-XA out, if the LSD starts to behave strangly and locks up around a roundabout or in carparks (I heard it happening with Redline Shockproof in the diff, not sure if it was the grade 90w-140 or the fluid itself), just dump the fluid and go a different one.

if you are willing to wait (imported), try perfectrun.com.au or greenline.jp or even *gasp* nengun.com

Check the injector duty cycle while cruising and idling, there's not a great deal of fuel going into the engine to begin with, and it's the O2 (lowband) sensors job to lean out the mixture while cruising at constant load or idle. A good point has been made, doing fuel map modifications yourself without a wideband sensor you could risk making the combustion temps skyrocket while cruising with a leaner mixture, and suddenly hitting boost might cause the engine to detonate.

I wouldn't be learning to how to tune on a expensive engine (NEO RB25DET), let alone messing with a professional tune (judging by power listed in car profile), really shouldn't be touching fuel at all without a wideband o2 sensor and long stretches of road in the middle of nowhere. Take it to your tuner and tell them your fuel economy goal get them to put it on the dyno and adjust the AFRs as safely to stoich as possible, it would probably be less than 1 hr dyno time.

I would use this opportunity to put a set of forged pistons in, and while it's open put a oil sump baffle in and change the head restrictors.

Different issue, the coolant temp switch is responsible for reporting the coolant temp to the ECU, if faulty it might be reporting the engine is fully warmed up when it isn't