Moodles2

Try RDA, check the group buy sections, there's always a RDA rotor group buy going (as far as I know)

Code 55 is Nissan's "Everything is OK, apparently". It's possible the AFM when unplugged just puts the car into limp mode home, I think. The problem might be something the ECU can't detect, such as a boost leak, intercooler pipe blown off, fuel pump failing, failing oxygen sensor, dirty AFM, leaking fuel injector(s) (in no particular order)

^^ The BNR32 turbo's are garrett, so maybe the other single turbo R32's got Nissan branded turbos?

The BNR32 ATTESSA is mechanical (fluid actuated), while the BNR34 ATTESSA is electrical. Otherwise that's all I can help with.

When it comes to plugs, lots of options: Z32 AFM + HPI Plug: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Z32 AFM + Tomei Plug: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 HPI plug by itself: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Tomei plug by itself: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 The HPI plug is cheaper.

I thought only the R32 turbos had Garrett on them, while R33 and R34 had Nissan printed on them (or was the R34 the only one with Nissan printed on?)

Elite Racing on here has said there was a bad batch of shockproof that has been spitting the fluid out the breathers

SR20DET, RB25DET(R33), VG30DETT need collars, I'm 95% sure RB26DETT they aren't required.

Watch out for ebay because there are fake Nissan AFMs out there. You can import them new from japan; nengun.com, greenline.jp, perfectrun.com.au etc for about $350 new (iirc)

Get a timing light and confirm the CAS is in the correct position. The symptoms sound like a intercooler pipe has blown off though

With the injectors, you might want to go with new injector seats (as you don't know the condition of the existing ones until they're off) like here, not sure about the upper seats though: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 I've got Sard 700cc injectors as well (still boxed), but the research I found told me they can be squeezed into the stock GTR rail (even Shaun @ Boostworx told me he has fit them before to the stock rail with abit of oil, even the Sard 800cc's) I'd add a new genuine fuel filter to the list. Yhy the Sard fuel pump though? I would personally go with the Nismo intank.

Dead middle is stock position, but if you have a tune, it can be anywhere from fully retarded to fully advanced. But even without a tune, you still need a timing light to verify dead middle is still stock position, as it could be slightly to the right or less of middle as the CAS affects the base timing.

Adjustable FPR you can squeeze an extra ammount out of injectors, but you move away from a fine mist (factory pressure), to a leaking tap type of spray pattern.

Don't adjust it without a timing light, otherwise if you have no clue what your doing then you will demage your motor if you advance it.

Cheapest I know of is $25 AUD per 0.946 litres

Sounds like unlimited boost, check all your vacuum lines, it might only be opening up once the line in question hits 7psi

Fairly common Nissan 5 speed issue, try delaying the shift. Look into changing the gearbox fluid, check the sticky in this section, Redline Shockproof Lightweight does wonders for these boxes than crunch, but is expensive.

I would double check the cooler piping, sounds like it has popped off somewhere.. especially if you didnt wipe the oil off the pipes/joiners

If this Blitz BOV an atmo type? If so you can't just put it on without adjusting your tune to suit.

With the RB26, the Nissan service manual recommends a rebuild at 125psi.. which is erm 8.62bar

What is the HKS actuator set to? If you still have a stock ECU, it will probably go into Rich & Retard mode (R&R) if it's set to 12psi or higher. Change pump for peace of mind, it's what 18 years old now, no guarantee it will take kindly to the extra power. Since you are aiming for 250hp, the stock intercooler will do, but at 300hp, you will need a better one, used intercoolers should be fine as long as the fins aren't damaged and you give it a good cleanout. At 300hp even the R34 stock sidemount is a decent upgrade to support that power, but no more.

Just an idea, maybe the rocker cover gasket (the one big piece one, 1 on intake side and 1 on exhaust side) is shot

I was splitting my factory rubber lines with 1 bar, so silicon is definitely the way to go I think.

I know the stock lines on my GTR are about 4mm, I contacted performance-wise awhile ago about the same thing, quoted me $35 delivered for a roll of 5m 4mm ID hose ($2 cheaper than that Ebay link when you factor into postage). Basically in any color listed here: http://www.performance-wise.net/page22.htm

Even different ammounts of tread left front vs back, can trip up ATTESSA into thinking there's wheelspin.