Moodles2

My opinion about the problem with the cheap kits is the quality control, leaking at the sandwich plate I think is the most common problem, followed by leaky fittings. I know Just Jap replace these bits no questions asked, but taking the front bumper on and off is a pain in itself.

I'm not recommending it, though I read people add the Nulon G70/G90 (not sure on the model) additive when changing their gearbox fluid. Since you don't have a GTR and no transfer case, you could add it through the shifter instead of taking the filler plug off the side of the transmission.

0.69hkpa is spot on 10psi

R32 Service Manual PDF, everything you need and want to know the ATTESSA system. Jacking up all 4 corner's is *not* how you diagnose if ATTESSA is working or not.

Idle the engine and pull the vacuum source off, it will hiss if its still physically connected to the engine, the actuator source when blown compressed air in you should see the front turbo's actuator rod move at 10+ psi (engine doesn't need to be running). If either of the above ring true, then it's still physically connected. If both are false, then by all means start ripping those hoses out and get rid of the solenoid.

My oil cooler is all -10 fittings (oil cooler core, sandwich plate, block mount, braided hose etc)

Possibly left on to appear the car doesn't have aftermarket boost controller, the plenum vacuum source would have been blanked off (factory hose going to the bled source at the back of the engine, can't be used by the EVC) while the factory actuator hose was most likely re-used for the EVC. Hoses connected to it probably go to nowhere, try taking the hoses off the factory solenoid.. the engine will start idling like crap (vacuum leak) and you'll hear/feel vacuum.

Every car is different and responds differently (even amongst same models), someone else personal settings might make 16psi for example and destroy your stock turbo.

Yes, it is very difficult to build any kind of boost in neutral as the engine is under no load. One of the common things people do, is put the fuel lines on backwards.

Common problem with R32s, the dry solder joints go in the little box that controls the actuator rod behind the climate control unit (controls whether hot or cold air comes in), it either gets stuck in the last position, which in your case in the hot position.

I hope you are joking there.

Correct, you can't vent air (BOV) to the atmosphere with AFMs without a tune to suit as it needs to be tuned out. MAF sensors measure the air as it comes in, the stock ECU is expecting that ammount of air to arrive in the intake manifold, the stock BOV works by recirculating the air back into the air intake. What you have done is starve your engine of air.

Could be a blown inlet or any of the 3 tb gaskets as they are paper and easily crack/burst due to age and that burst of 15-16 psi of pressure. Give them a good spraying with aerostart or something similar around the gaskets, should be able to pick up an inlet leak easily enough as the revs react and climb Might be a good opportunity to put some metal gaskets in if it (probably a good idea anyway if putting 15-16psi into the inlet manifold anyway, as I don't think the paper ones could take that pressure over time anyway)

I've read it before, take it with a grain of salt. The testing method is meant for grease not engine oils ( read the reply by the redline rep: http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f...95/m/8381065241 ). Street Commodores actually retracted that article and apologized. By all means destroy your engine using that article's recommendation if you wish.

Before you go ahead and buy the adapter kit from UAS, ask if they still recommend them for track usage, as they used to have a warning that they weren't suitable for motorsport applications.

From what I understand of the rules in Australia, an oil only has to be minimum 75% synthetic to be allowed to market it as a fully synthetic oil. Turbolight (group III) is actually over 75% synthetic, but since it's packaged in Europe it's labelled semi-synth as such (different rules in Europe). Nulon full synthetic isn't 100% synthetic, it's a group III oil (maybe group III/IV blend at best), it just qualifies to be marketed as a full synth as such. I can't comment on the other oils that have been mentioned here. HPR 15-60 is too thick for a RB unless it has massive oil leaks and blowby problems, the 60 rating is too thick, even the cold rating 15w is too thick. Stick with something 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40

Did you reuse your old actuators from the stock turbos onto the HKS GTSS turbos?

Start from the back of the thread and read newest to oldest. One word, Sougi S6000 ($60 per 5l) or something comparable to Turbolight that's cheaper, Sougi M5000 ($30-35ish per 5l, im not 100% sure on the price). You will understand when you read the thread.

Well A1RM's up front only last about 3/4 of a track day for me, and that's a 200kw GTR. Take a backup pair when you hit Mallala so you have a pair to change during the day.

Check the huge sticky about oils in this forum section

Maybe get some billet gears made up for the stock pump, though I believe the pump housing needs machining to suit.

You do realize, when you are filling through the gearstick with a GTR, you are filling the transfer case, not the gearbox as what would happen with a RWD skyline? Also the notchyness can be attributed to not using the proper fluid for the Getrag box as it expects ATF fluid (V160 from Toyota, same as what used in the Supra's 6 speed Getrag) not a gear oil.

A new fuel pump won't affect the tune at all, the Fuel Pressure Regulator makes sure of that. Though it is highly recommended to change the pump on the safe side anyway, since they are 20 years old, it might be struggling now, so more power won't help it.

A1RM is a great pad for light track work, but look at I think Compound 9 by QFM, I have a set tucked away the next time I hit Mallala

In perspective, I'd rather change a $10 filter every 5k than a $20 filter every 10k (as what is recommended)