Moodles2

Can be done that way too, I just have a consult cable so just more familiar doing it that way

Can be done with the engine still in, but if you screw it up, I've been told its an engine out job

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1431 I wouldn't pay 5c for one.

The tune itself is always more important than the ECU, if you have a tuner in mind that is comfortable with that particular ECU than by alls means go ahead.

The ECU needs to be put into base-idle mode or else when you adjust that screw the ECU will just compensate.

The factory amp was designed to be used with the factory tapedeck, Nissan's "active speaker" system. Most likely been bypassed if you have an aftermarket headunit in that already has MOSFET builtin or an external amp. The R32 one irc is marked Clarion, no idea what the R33 might be marked as.

If it's circular, its the factory speaker amp

440cc (GTR) injectors will easy support that power level. Great thing is the RB20DET takes top feed injectors so GTR injectors are perfect, the only difference is the RB20 takes high imp injectors versus the RB26's low imp injectors, you will also need the resistor pack from the GTR to use the GTR injectors.

Vacuum leak, unmetered air would be sucked into the engine, and a boost leak under boost conditions.

I would be looking at the battery chassis ground, taking it off, sandpaper the chassis point back so it gets a good clean earth and reattach

In short, it doesn't work like that. If each turbo only made 7 psi, then the manifold would only see 7 psi. 7psi + 7psi = 7psi. Flow is different from pressure, PSI is not a measure of how much air the engine is receiving. Stock turbos make about 200kw as a pair at 1 bar (14.7psi), whereas the biggest twin turbo you can get GT2860R-10 as a pair at 1 bar probably makes 300-350kw (maybe more) only because it flows more air at the same pressure. Picture this, what happens when your car's tyres are pumped to 15psi, and you want them pumped up to 30psi.. you set the air compressor to 15psi.. wait, what's going on my tyres aren't pumping up, they're still 15psi! Ever noticed as a kid when pumping up your bike tyres, when the tube is completely empty and it's real easy to get air in with the hand pump, but when it's inflated it starts getting harder and harder to put more air in.

It could be that the steering wheel isnt on straight, it's out by say 1 tooth, it's enough to trip the HICAS light. Can be corrected by putting the wheel back on with the wheels perfectly straight. You can live with the HICAS light on, shouldn't see any problems, but for daily driving Nissan put it there as a safety thing to correct oversteer/understeer. It might actually save you from putting it into a gutter. The only reason to lockbar it down is that HICAS is interfering or if HICAS is flat out malfunctioning, and usually it requires driving at the track to notice it.

I must be thinking of ATTESSA sorry, ATTESSA and ABS share the same sensors and fuse, so when you pull it out it disables both. Or when ones not working, the other doesn't work.

rb20 making 190-200kw with those mods and a stock rb25 turbo, to me sounds alittle far fetched. 13.5psi doesn't exactly sound safe for a stock rb25 (unless it's had a steel wheel put in). I would have thought if it was out by 1 tooth it would run like utter crap that it would be noticable though. As for timing belt alignment, I know it's from the RB26 manual, but the only thing that will really be different is the timing cover: http://rbforums.org/pdfs/r32rb26timingbelt.pdf

Just have to make sure you buy a injector cleaner that is marked as O2 sensor safe, O2 sensors don't fare well against additives such as octane boosters etc

I'm not 100% sure, but when the HICAS light is on, isn't ABS disabled as well?

Look at the dyno fan positioning between oils, Nulon is practically on the bumper, whereas the others you could park a motorcycle in there.

Some ideas I can think of is, has the timing been checked (CAS in correct position) or has the belt has skipped a tooth or 2

First thing I saw was Walbro fuel pump, did you use the stock wiring (6v / 12v depending on load) or did you give it alternator voltage like A/M pumps such as Walbros need?

Maybe go smaller oil restrictors while the head is off. Crank collar on a R33?

Thing about injector cleaner or any additive, you run the risk of damaging the O2 sensor(s) in the process.

Or if you live in the country, a kangaroo

In the long term, I think it's best to have 2 sets of wheels, street and track duty wheels. I use Kumho Ku36's (225) on my street wheels (16x8), and decent 255's on my track wheels (17x9s). Then you won't be wearing through semi's with daily duty driving.

about 4.5l including oil in the filter

Have a feel behind the back of the balance tube, the hose may of popped off or split in half that supplies the factory boost gauge's MAP sensor.