Moodles2

The PDF i read linked here, says the PLX uses the Bosch LSU4 sensor like the other kits do.

Get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in there asap

Only downside to R33 or R34 dumps, is it takes a 18mm O2 sensor thread VS the R32's 12mm O2 sensor thread.. can be tricky to get a bung that makes the sensor part protrude out far enough in the correct position (i've seen pictures of R33/R34 dumps with these bungs where the sensor just isn't far out enough into the exhaust gas flow to be effective)

Gearbox fluid change might solve the problem depending on the current state of the fluid. Do you have a short shifter installed?

Change the fluid asap, and bleed the air out (get it done professionally if you've never done it before)

There's a black box attached to the firewal on the drivers side usually behind the master brake cylinder, check it has vacuum hoses leading to it, and that the power plug is physically plugged in. Without a vacuum hose attached it will read 0 all the time.

Is the tail end sliding out ever so slightly during the vibration/shudder, if so could be HICAS related.

I run QFM A1RMs on mine, very very dusty. I remember when I had the HPX pads on, my front wheels rarely ever got dirty (but then again they were gunmetal grey so I might have missed it)

At the back of the coilpack cover, if it was removed, I would double check it's ground wire (seperate black wire) that it has a clean earth. The ignitor is hard to miss, it's a square silver box with fins (looks like a heatsink) about the size of a mobile phone

I think the notchyness is attributed to the provided circlip that just isn't quite right for that gearbox

What AFM was taken off, and replaced with what. Hopefully you haven't replaced a stock RB20/RB25 (green sticker I believe) with a Z32 one or something silly like that?

Sounds like air in the brake lines, brake fluid could have boiled.. when was the last time the fluid was changed?

QFM HPX might be what your after, fairly cheap (check sponsors and group buy forum). Do you still have your factory shims still, almost always whenever brakes make alot of noise the shims are missing.

Alittle offtopic, but roughly how much power can 700cc injectors running E85 support?

HKS go to all the trouble of filling the water jackets in the N1 blocks (stock blocks too I think) with cement.

While it's idling, use a spray with alcohol (wd40, brake cleaner etc) around the throttle body/intake manifold.. if theres a leak the revs will react and climb momentarily

Those kits are pretty much generic chinese-made kits (cooling pro, autobahn888, same same), though you do get a full 13 piece set. Samco are the best silicon hoses (that I'm aware of), but quite expensive, $300-350 imported only gets you 4-5 heater hoses. http://www.samcosport.com/row/car_kits.asp?make=Nissan

Depends on the series of R33, there are coilpacks that use an external ignitor and there are coilpacks that have an ignitor builtin

If the ignitor was disconnected to get to the sparkplugs, unplug both sides and firmly plug them both in again, and double check the ignitor's black wire is grounded to a clean earth.

As I tried to warn you in your original thread, the AFM measures the incoming air as it comes in. By venting the air to the atmosphere, less air came into the intake manifold than was reported and why it ran rich & crap.

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck fully open, if you pull it out while cold it should be completely closed, it should only be fully open at 76.5c http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...ries-p-315.html

Some of the high end jap cooler kits are actually just all Earl's bits and pieces (from what I understand, and are actually better than the jap stuff) that are made to the correct lengths and fittings required for that specific model of skyline and mounting location, mine was a Trust kit meant for a R33/R34 GTR to be mounted behind the intercooler. I needed extra Speedflow fittings because I added a B&M in-line oil thermostat, plus needed extra -10 hose to run it all the way to the passenger side duct. The most expensive part by far is the fittings. Made a mistake too, it was a 16row not a 19row core

TPS issues are fairly common with the Z32 ecu, i remember reading about it in a thread awhile ago, something about the Z32 TPS behaving different from the R33 one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...Z32+TPS+nistune

I run a setup of all Earl/Speedflow bits, Earl's & Speedflow -10 fittings, Earl's -10 steel braided lines, Earl's 19row core, Earl's relocator in my R32 GTR, boostworx installed in the passenger duct and they said they barely made it fit.

Probably could also sell it claiming it was a metalcat.. it kinda looks one, if you squint.. 3" in, 3" out