Moodles2

Always BP Ultimate at the track, I even bring 2x 20l fuel containers filled with it. I will go out of my way to get BP Ultimate, but will settle on the rare occasion for any 98 for daily driving.

Considered a Nismo intank (no surge tank)?

Here's what a Hiflowed RB25 turbo looks like (notice how thin the housing has been machined back to): http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/r33PU/pufront.jpg By the looks of it it's a ceramic wheel, but im not 100% sure.

The Ryco Z145a is always about $10-12 at my local supercheap/autobahns etc

Make sure the torque split converter is working on purchase, as it costs upwards of $2000 to get new genuine G sensor if thats been damaged installing the torque split controller, could even mean it's a 2WD GTR at the moment. The only real problem I see if it still has the factory crankshaft in, the '89 got the one with the small oil drive which are known to kill oil pumps, though with the N1 pump they most likely put a crank collar on it. I'd be asking if it's a R33 crank in there. Judging by the mods and engine parts alone, it could easily do 400kw+ safely, though it will be a fairly laggy daily with -5 turbos and a large intercooler as -5s are meant for 350kw+, not for 300-340kw. That's just my opinion, would make an awesome track car though.

That's strange. Sard 63564 are 800cc injectors.

RB26 ECUs run low impedance injectors with a resistor pack (like: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 ). Whereas RB25 injectors are high impedance type, RB25 ecus expect high imp injectors.

A hiflowed RB25 turbo will flow more air at 10psi, than a normal RB25.. and in turn a normal RB25 turbo will outflow a stock RB20 turbo at 10psi. What you're experiencing could be what we call R&R (rich & retard), which is a ECU safeguard to protect the engine as the stock ECU by itself isn't very good at supporting higher than stock power.

Stock ECU tuneable yes, with a daughterboard. www.nistune.com

It's possible the RB25 turbo might have been hiflowed and got a steel wheel too, could explain the laggyness.

Just talk to that mechanic and say your providing everything, as those kits by Kudos Motorsport are complete, for example: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ku...6dett-p-51.html You say reputable mechanic, does that mean they have done skylines before, GTRs in particular? Ask how he plans to get the harmonic balancer nut off, and if he is taking the radiator out to do the job (might be a bad sign if the belt change, especially getting the harmonic balancer off with the radiator still in place) It's difficult to gauge exactly how long it would take to do the 100k service, as you can spend an hour+ just to get the harmonic balancer nut undone. A rough estimate labor shouldn't be more than $300, -/+ $50.

There shouldn't be any vacuum lines going into the factory boost solenoid if you are using a bleed valve.

Mid '93 to the last R32's made in 1994 got the R33 crank. Unsure of the build date? run the VIN through Nissan FAST

I looked the ECU up, it can support 12 low imp or 24 high imp injectors. If there's no physical switch, then it's probably an option in the tuning software itself to choose between the 2 impedances.

Could always convert to HKS Twin Power, just an idea.

Definitely get a front pipe with a flex pipe, otherwise the whole exhaust system will act like a lever and put strain on the rear turbo

I've seen a bog stock R32 GTR make 155kw on the RE customs dyno.

Anymore than 10psi on a stock RB20 turbo, and the turbo will die. It's not about PSI either, it's about flow. A bigger turbo will outflow a smaller turbo at say 18psi. A RB20 can generally handle 200kw reliably, I generally don't see people pushing more than 250kw.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-ignitor-24232 Looking at $700+ for a new genuine one from there. The part number is: 22020-05U00 So keep trying local Nissan dealerships quoting above, might be able to get it cheaper (especially if you know someone who can get trade prices)

How far apart were the before and after dyno runs done, and what kind of cat? Only thing I can think of is the engine soaking up heat from the hot gas exiting the front pipe making the intake charge hotter than it's normally due to proximity.

Some A/M ECUs have a physical switch to switch between hi and low impedence. Though I thought that ECU could use both no problem?

If the brakes affect the rpm, then a vacuum line that deals with the brake system must be split.

Do you have an aftermarket atmo bov?

I only put genuine Nissan LLC in mine

AirResearch is what Garrett was called back then, sounds like a old-school bush bearing turbo, all bush bearing turbos are incredibly laggy.. a nice new Garrett GT ballbearing turbo should make a world of difference, as for which one to choose, read the RB20/RB25 dyno thread. this thread will most likely get locked.. next time search.