Moodles2

I would imagine it wouldn't take any longer than a hour on the dyno if it's had a full tune in the past?

What car are you planning to Nistune? You say you have a Nissan turbo, but your garage says you have a GTS (N/A), but then you ask about a GTS-T, you aren't making any sense. If we are talking about a GTS-T (turbo), the Nissan basemap (the factory tune) are always quite rich and on the safe side, by cleaning up the basemap up you can get slightly better fuel economy and at the same time make alittle more power (maybe 5-20kw?, something best to be put to your prefered performance workshop/tuner), but first it's best to do supporting mods (boost controller at a safe level say 10psi for the stock turbo, better smic or fmic, less restricting exhaust from the turbo back with a hiflow cat, highflow air filter etc)

Nistune is NOT a workshop/tuner, it is the company that makes the hardware that is installed inside the factory ECUs that allows it to be reprogrammed in real time. In the past the only option with the factory ECUs was to have the EEPROM chip removed, reprogrammed and then resoldered back into the ECU. This is an expensive exercise at about $500 a pop. Whereas Nistune is a once-off $220ish for the hardware itself, then maybe another $60-$80 for it to be soldered into the ECU (or for free if you have a friend with good soldering skill), then a full dyno tune can be anywhere from $500-$900 depending on mods, and anytime you do any performance mod in the future it will probably cost less than $100 as the tuning is done through the CONSULT port, no need to open the ECU at all (where you would be paying $500 to have the EEPROM chip taken out, reprogrammed and soldered back in). Nistune is great value because you retain the factory diagnostics, and for comparison an aftermarket ecu, the Apexi PFC alone is at least $1200 imported from Japan

Put the old BOV back on. You can't just put a atmo BOV on and not adjust the tune to suit as the ECU expects the air to be recirculated back into the intake.

Might need new rocker cover gasket

Mechanic's don't actually "tune" cars, people (australians) run their cars into the ground by the time it gets to the mechanic for its regular maintenance, changing spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil, oil filter etc and the car feels like new again. That's where the perceived "tune" come from. A "high performance tune" is where the car is on a dynometer (rolling road) and generally someone who specializes in that sort of car tweaks the ECU (Nistune etc) to make the engine more efficient at making power, but you don't need to worry about that having a non-turbo because the stock ECU does an ok job at stock power.. any money spent on it's performance is just a waste, best just to sell it and buy a turbo skyline.

For some reason, the Nissan manual specifies about 150nm (I can't remember the exact number) on the balancer bolt. But if you find the torque is 3x that, then it's likely it's had a timing belt change at a Nissan dealership in Japan, don't ask me why the reason behind it.

+1 didnt read it either. paragraphs, or dot points at least

Why are you changing them anyway, the existing 1000cc injectors should support alittle over 600kw on PULP (not sure on E85, 450kw maybe?). If you are replacing them with different brand 1000cc injectors, the lag time will need to be adjusted in the ECU as every injector has different response times, bigger or smaller injectors you'll have to do this anyway and adjust the injector size correction, either way though it is a good idea to run the car on the dyno to confirm the AFRs are spot on especially if you are making that amount of power.

Speaking of the idle screw, anyone have a picture of where it is on a RB26?

Walbro pumps are meant to operate at alternator voltage (~14v) not the standard source 12v (and I believe it dips down to 6v with low engine load)

Both are 80mm shells, so should fit without a problem

Can you confirm you can get positive pressure with the turbo? Maybe the exhaust wheel is sitting inside the cat

Do you still have the factory oil cooler/warmer fitted, or did you remove it with a RB20 mount?

Mine's ECU is just a standard ECU with a piggyback inside. Functions just like a stock ECU, will self learn all the idle and timing settings again.

From Harold @ www.performancelub.com

I think the Nismo slave is the problem, iirc they're supposed to be used as a pair (Nismo master & slave), also I've read when it comes to twin plate clutches only the Nismo coppermix twin plate is compatible.

The R34 side mount is much better than the R33 one

Wideband sensors themselves are easily damaged by water/condensation so are impractical for daily use (even the cheaper Bosch one is about $200 to replace), plus you would need to get a hole drilled into the side of an exhaust part (dump or frontpipe) for the sensor to go in, as they get damaged easily when they are mounted from the bottom pointing up. As for kits locally, just an example: http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/955/NGK...Wideband-Sensor AEM is UEGO is probably the cheapest of the kits at $250-$300 imported from the US

Just for show, they are completely useless without a wideband o2 sensor.

Nice imformative page by PaulR33 on AFMs, http://www.paulr33.com/diagrams/airflow-meter-wiring.html

Couldn't you just get the hotdog removed the the existing catback?

Sard injectors, well Denso to be exact usually black bodies, with a colored top.. here's what a Sard (Denso) 1000cc injector looks like: http://www.sardracing.com/images/products/Injector63518.JPG Rochestor 1000cc injector looks like: http://www.tweakit.net/shop/images/rochester_11mm.gif Those are both 11mm o-ring injectors. If it's a japanese injector, it's most likely to be a Denso injector. The aftermarket fuel rail is an unknown, until you know the brand or more details about it, you won't know what injectors you can fit in it (whether it's a 11mm o-ring type or 14mm o-ring type rail). You need low impedance injectors with GTR ECUs, what ECU do you have?

Not so much a list, rather their software they call "Nissan FAST"

Australia: RDA (slotted, dimpled/grooved and probably others), DBA (slotted, ventilated, crossdrilled, crossdrilled+slotted etc), Nissan OEM (crossdrilled, ventilated).. probably others Japan: Project Mu, ENDLESS just to name afew